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Constantly Cleaning Ign Switch

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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 12:47 AM
  #1  
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Default Constantly Cleaning Ign Switch

Hey guys,

So I narrowed a bunch of my problems a while back to the ignition switch. I followed the thread stating how to clean it, etc. I did that, and it fixed my problems for about a month. Then bam, problems slowly came back. So, I pulled it again and same thing. Same contacts burnt/need cleaning. So I cleaned them again, reinstalled. Month later, started showing symptoms, and I had enough. Ordered a new ignition switch. Fixed all my issues. Now, 2 months later, those problems are coming back. Here's the issues:

-Security light stays on randomly B2723
-HVAC slow to "boot up" once car is started
-Sometimes (rarely) turn key to start, slight delay between turning key to starter engaging

To address the first issue, B2723, I have tried cleaning the key as well as a brand new key I had made at the dealership, no dice. Replaced Theft Deterrent Relay, still no joy. I believe it to be the Ign Switch. Goes away once it's cleaned/replaced. I believe that there is something drawing too much power through that switch. Just not sure what. The car still runs and drives fine with the code on. I got the low eng power code once driving along one day. Another reason I replaced the ign switch. Haven't had it since. I've cleaned all grounds/rewired some, greased em, etc.

When I first bought my car, I had to rewire the radio due to the meth head install job done on it. I could not for the life of me find a wire with power, and from what I gathered from online, the brown wire that comes out of the ign switch connector is where most tap in for radio power. So I did. The two contacts that were going bad was the power contact and the hvac contact. So I wouldn't think that tying the radio to the brown wire would cause those contacts to overload since it's on a seperate circuit sorta. But any advice is appreciated. I'm about 3 seconds away from eliminating the ign switch entirely and replacing it with 5 switches and a push button. Sick of fighting this. Real quick, my car had the on the fly suspension settings which has since been disconnected. I'm thinking of turning that ride selector switch into a "secret" kill switch in order to start the car. Anyone done this?

Main questions:
-Anyone have any ideas/suggestions as to why my ign switch keeps needing cleaning?
-Anyone have similar issues?
-Is there something else I should check for that code being on sometimes?
-The brown wire off the back of the ign switch, does anyone know what that's supposed to go to? I don't remember seeing a brown wire with power that goes to the radio when I rewired it. (car was a bose car, replaced all speakers and deck)

Thanks everyone for the help and advice!
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 01:35 AM
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Moving to C5 Tech.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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Thank you so much! I will check for those wires. I'm with you, I think tapping in directly at the ignition switch may work, but it's not right. I will look for that aftermarket wire bundle and I'll also check behind the radio for a power wire. Unfortunately, the idiot that first installed the aftermarket deck cut the connector to the factory radio and just spliced directly into the wires (poorly might I add). I will use a multimeter and try to find that wire later. I will call the dealer and see if i can get a new key cylinder.

Again, thank you so much!
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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Do the bulbs look replaceable? Doesn't look like it from the pic..
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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Same thing happened with my ignition switch. I think once you clean them, you have to keep cleaning them on a schedule because the contact pads will never lay perfectly flat again. I cleaned mine once a year for 3 years in a row, and the pads were always carbonized over no matter how careful I was. So finally I just bought a new switch a haven't had to mess with it since.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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If your getting the vats code just wire a resistor of correct value In under the dash and be done with that mess
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