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2002 C5 Coupe manual tranny with 130K miles and LMC5 installed a year ago with brown wire used and with GM column lock recall performed.
Went to O’Reilly’s and noticed as I turned the ignition switch off, there was a bit of resistance/drag going from on to off and some resistance as I pulled the key out which I never felt before. I didn’t think much about it until I got back in the car to leave when I turned the key and there was quite a bit more resistance and the engine wouldn’t turn. I could hear the fuel pumps priming the system and shutting off.
I ended up having it towed home.
Tried to search here for the mentioned issue with no luck to include reading the BC ingnition switch fix which doesn’t address this particular issue.
Can anyone pipe in with some experience, advice or solutions for this problem. I’m stumped! I checked the 1-1/2 year old battery’s voltage which was 12.7 and by having a load test done that showed it was fine.
Could something inside the key tumbler broken off causing the resistance that’s related to the VATS pellet?
I had a similar occurance about a month ago on my2004 coupe with 135,000 miles. It was the vats pellet reader on the ignition lock cylinder. A piece of the contact broke loose ad was jamming the lock. I purchased a new cylinder on Amazon for about $65 bucks. Using a video from YouTube, I was able to use the old lock cylinder tumblers and rebuild the new lock to be able to use my existing keys. Local locksmith wanted $100 to do what I did. Reassembled and now it works perfect.
Better than where I broke down on I10 in the desert between L.A. and Phoenix, middle of nowhere 100 degrees out there about 2 hours before tow truck came.
I had a similar occurance about a month ago on my2004 coupe with 135,000 miles. It was the vats pellet reader on the ignition lock cylinder. A piece of the contact broke loose ad was jamming the lock. I purchased a new cylinder on Amazon for about $65 bucks. Using a video from YouTube, I was able to use the old lock cylinder tumblers and rebuild the new lock to be able to use my existing keys. Local locksmith wanted $100 to do what I did. Reassembled and now it works perfect.
Thanks for the reply. I’m hoping that its the same problem you had because I’m confident I can swap the cylinder out. What was the part number that you purchased from Amazon?
Better than where I broke down on I10 in the desert between L.A. and Phoenix, middle of nowhere 100 degrees out there about 2 hours before tow truck came.
Sorry to hear of you breaking down!
Yeah thanks. I was much more luckier than you were.
It was ACDelco part D1473D uncoded Ignition Lock Cylinder. Uncoded just means there are no tumblers included. Use the ones from the old lock and you shouldn’t have any problems.
Last edited by Dmiles2004; Nov 6, 2017 at 07:39 PM.
Reason: Spelling
It was ACDelco part D1473D uncoded Ignition Lock Cylinder. Uncoded just means there are no tumblers included. Use the ones from the old lock and you shouldn’t have any problems.
Thanks for all the help on here, I really appreciate all the great advice.
I’ve ordered the ignition cylinder lock along with the ignition switch figuring while I’m in there replace both at the same time. Especially with the amount of miles on the odometer.
I’ll post here with a write up when I finish the swap out.
Stranded at O’Reilly’s with no start!
