Fog lights not working
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
Fog lights not working
Hi folks, my fog lights quit on me a week ago. The button light didn’t work either, so I thought it was the fuse, which I changed but was good anyway. Now the indicator light works but still no light from the fogs themselves.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 493
Likes: 24
From: Peoria IL
Fought this for a year. Chased wires, replaced fuses and relays. Nothing. Cleaned the grounds, and they worked. Was almost mad it was so easy. The car was never in rain either. Grounds looked clean as could be.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
Update: All fuses are fine. I switched the relays with the identical one next to it, no help there either. The button indicator works fine, but that’s it. I doubt the following has anything to do with it but the backlighting of the fog/trunk switch has never worked.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
As suggested in post #9 check the splice pack and ground.
SP100 and G102 are located on the top of the right side frame almost inline with the front of the surge tank. A splice pack is a device that brings together several ground wires and then the splice pack is attached to the frame ground.
SP100 and G102 are located on the top of the right side frame almost inline with the front of the surge tank. A splice pack is a device that brings together several ground wires and then the splice pack is attached to the frame ground.
Where is the surge tank? Do you mean the radiator over flow?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I know schematics make some people shake in their boots but, you have the schematic.. Get a metwe and see if you have KNOWNS!!!!
The fuse has test points on the top. Measure those test points to chassis ground and see if you have battery power.
Short relay pin D1 to ground. The lights should come on if the relay has power and works. All the BCM switchs just apply GROUND to that wire and complete the circuit to allow it to work. Remove a bulb and read the GROUND wire to chassis ground. Should be very close to zero OHMS.
Bill
The fuse has test points on the top. Measure those test points to chassis ground and see if you have battery power.
Short relay pin D1 to ground. The lights should come on if the relay has power and works. All the BCM switchs just apply GROUND to that wire and complete the circuit to allow it to work. Remove a bulb and read the GROUND wire to chassis ground. Should be very close to zero OHMS.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 26, 2017 at 06:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
I know schematics make some people shake in their boots but, you have the schematic.. Get a metwe and see if you have KNOWNS!!!!
The fuse has test points on the top. Measure those test points to chassis ground and see if you have battery power.
Short relay pin D1 to ground. The lights should come on if the relay has power and works. All the BCM switchs just apply GROUND to that wire and complete the circuit to allow it to work. Remove a bulb (fog light bulb? ) and read the GROUND wire to chassis ground. Should be very close to zero OHMS.
Bill
The fuse has test points on the top. Measure those test points to chassis ground and see if you have battery power.
Short relay pin D1 to ground. The lights should come on if the relay has power and works. All the BCM switchs just apply GROUND to that wire and complete the circuit to allow it to work. Remove a bulb (fog light bulb? ) and read the GROUND wire to chassis ground. Should be very close to zero OHMS.
Bill
Shorting the relay...does that mean removing it from it’s spot on the board?
Last edited by chasboy; Nov 26, 2017 at 08:08 PM.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
I cleaned both front frame mount splice packs. They were not dirty, just a little dust and one small spider, no corrosion but I cleaned it all with a stiff wire brush including the contact area on the frame.
I did the test Bill mentioned on the fuse, and got a reading with the lights ON of 8.8 volts.
I tried to do the other relay test but didn’t understand how to do it.
Bottom line is still no lights.
I did the test Bill mentioned on the fuse, and got a reading with the lights ON of 8.8 volts.
I tried to do the other relay test but didn’t understand how to do it.
Bottom line is still no lights.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,420
Likes: 969
From: Morristown New Jersey
Oldtimer
Solved the problem!!
Both bulbs were bad. Occam’s Razor all over again. I’ve never found the fog bulbs to be the easiest to get to, tho’ I did access one today without removing any covers.
Both bulbs were about a year old, so I didn’t go for them straight out. Learned my lesson, and some info about relays and schematics!
Thanks everyone!!
