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EBCM removal?

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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 08:02 AM
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Default EBCM removal?

Now that MA inspection wont allow any ABS lights, and after driving for 4 years with no ABS or Traction Control, I'm ready to resolve the "No communication" issue and resolder the EBCM. My only problem is getting the module off the ABS pump. I've removed the four machine screws but am having difficulties getting the module seperated. I don't want to damage anything so here I am asking for the collective wisdom on the forum.....
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 06:34 PM
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Thanks for the link to ABSFIXER - a picture is worth a thousand words. My difficulty is that there are 6 screws, not 4, that hold the EBCM to the pump.....my bad! I'll get those other two screws tomorrow - thanks again!
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 07:30 PM
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ya,the last 2 might make a little diff
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 08:46 AM
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I took mine apart last month and re-soldered the contact solder joints. Success! About 1000 miles since and no more dash lights for ABS and Traction Control. But, lost one center screw going back together and didn't worry about it. Had applied a coat of silicone seal on all mating surfaces.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 09:00 AM
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That's good news awches! If I were smarter, I would have attempted this in a warmer season. Plus, not having a whole vehicle lift makes it that much more difficult to access the bottom screws. I should have it out later this afternoon, after I get out of work.....
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zeke2u
That's good news awches! If I were smarter, I would have attempted this in a warmer season. Plus, not having a whole vehicle lift makes it that much more difficult to access the bottom screws. I should have it out later this afternoon, after I get out of work.....
Had mine up on jack stands and did all from underneath.
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 11:06 AM
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I'm still stuck! I removed the EBCM and resoldered the 5 spots on the board/relay. Still get "No communication". I've tested the connector and get 12 v at pins A and B and l get continuity at the ground at pins F and G. The fuses in the engine (5 and 52) are fine and the IP, fuse 8, too. Should I just assume that the processor is bad? If I send the unit out to ABSFixer, can they resolve the issue? This has been rather painful......
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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Beyond my knowhow, I would send it to ABSFixer or try to call him before hand.
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 03:40 AM
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I'm stuck also. The two middle bolts head snapped off. I was able to remove the EBCM. But now I cant remove the two bolts. I tired to use wd40 rust penetrate with vise grips and I got nothing yet. I have no clue how the middle ones broke off and the top and bottom came off with no problem. I have no clue what to do next. especially. I don't think a drill can fit down there.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by zeke2u
I'm still stuck! I removed the EBCM and resoldered the 5 spots on the board/relay. Still get "No communication". I've tested the connector and get 12 v at pins A and B and l get continuity at the ground at pins F and G. The fuses in the engine (5 and 52) are fine and the IP, fuse 8, too. Should I just assume that the processor is bad? If I send the unit out to ABSFixer, can they resolve the issue? This has been rather painful......
What year car do you have? 2001 - 2004? I am not sure ABSFixer can actually repair the problem you are experiencing the web site says they can repair failures that generate the following codes: C1214, C1217 and C1218 which basically means replacing the relay inside the module. Be sure to ask them what their capabilities are.

Bill
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Old Jan 14, 2018 | 09:13 AM
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Hi Bill - my Z' is '03. Sent the module to ABSFixer and they repaired whatever was causing the "no communication" issue. They didn't give any detailed explanation of what it was they replaced. I did speak with them before I sent it out and they seemed confident that they could repair it. I reinstalled the module and it appears to be working with no error codes. I still have a question about the adhesive sealant that GM uses to mate the module with the BPMV: it seems to be more an adhesive than a sealant. Man, it was difficult to remove the module and to clean the remaining adhesive. The service manual gives no clue as to what kind of gasket material is used. Anyway, I used a Permatex product called Ultra Grey, advanced formula for rigid torque and high vibration applications. I hope I used enough for this particular application - my concern was over applying material and having it contaminate any of the 12 cylindrical cases on the solenoids. I've started the vehicle a dozen or so times and there's still no error messages. Part of my make-up is to be skeptical and I'm wondering if my gasket sealing skills are sufficient to keep corrosion from creeping into my work. Also, I'm just waiting for the roads, here in MA, to clean-up a bit before I take it to have the state inspection.
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