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Two of my gauges are not working: Volt & RPM. Upon starting, the needles go all the way to the right but then come all the way back to the left. I am receiving a "Low Voltage" light, which is not true since I put a meter under the hood and tested battery and Alternator.
Also, since I have to pass emissions, the emissions guy told me I have "check engine" light on as well, but it is not on in the dash.
My mechanic says I will need a Level 2 (?) diagnostic that only GM can do. I really hate to give all my Christmas Money to GM so I am soliciting help here first.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Richard A. Snitzer; Dec 5, 2017 at 12:42 PM.
Reason: accuracy
12-7 Update: R/R Ignition Switch. Per recent pix attached, tabs seem straight and normal at the back of the switch.
Looks like the next stop is the ECM. Thoughts?
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
From your subject line, it is highly unlikely that the Electronic Brake Controller Module (EBCM) would cause problems with the dash. Did you perhaps mean Body Control Module (BCM)? Even the BCM is not likely to cause dash issues since there is a separate controller for the dash called the Instrument Panel Controller (IPC).
Your description of "dash gone crazy" is not very helpful IMHO. Need more specifics please.
As far as the dash gauges needles going all the way to the right and then returning to the left, that is normal when the key is inserted into the key cylinder and then the key turned to the ON position. Happens every startup on a C5.
If you have messages displayed in the DIC have you tried the RESET button on the dash to CLEAR the message??
Have you tried to pull the codes on the car by using the following procedure??
If you can pull the codes with this procedure then post ALL the codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor that they show up with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM ..... etc ........ If any sensor shows NO COMM next to it then post those also.
If you cannot pull the codes by the above procedure then you CAN determine the cause of the check engine by taking the car to a local parts supply store and have them read the emissions codes with their hand held reader. That would at least be a start to getting the emissions issue repaired.
The "level 2 test" may refer to using the GM Tech 2 device to read the vehicle specific codes that the above procedure can do.
Not sure why the comment about "Dash Gone Crazy" This is called Hyperbole? Let's just focus on the problem and troubleshooting, please.
To your salient points:
Yes BCM, not EBCM.
Yes Tech 2.
Yes I have tried to clear messages!! And no it won't clear!! The only Dash buttons that work is E/M.
I will pull codes tonight and report back!!
To your other points:
I was merely trying to put in the readers' minds eye what I see when I start the car regarding the needles since if they didn't move it would indicate a problem.
Thank you for your time and thoughts.
Best Regards
Last edited by Richard A. Snitzer; Dec 7, 2017 at 07:32 PM.
Reason: more info
toward the end of the video you will see we are almost went into diagnostic mode but skipped right over it.
Yes I did hold down the Options Button.
I am also attaching the P Codes. Also the relevant wiring diagram for the DIC. I believe the ignition switch may be the culprit since it is the only junction I see the two have in common.
I will add this about the Voltage Gauge: when the car is running it does vary between 1.0 - 1.9 volts or so.
Last edited by Richard A. Snitzer; Dec 7, 2017 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: more info
Dash or BCM or Ignition Issues?
