So I've read a ton about the traditional "clutch woes" and I've performed that ranger method on my clutch many times (the fluid is clear), but it seems like my issue is slightly different than most that are mentioned on the forums.

My clutch is sticking. It only sticks in 1st/2nd (depending). It definitely does not go limp, it just sticks to the floor until I kick it back up and then it continues working normally again. It ONLY happens when starting from a stopped, or creeping forwarding, motion usually when sitting in heavy traffic and inching forward. It almost always happens when "inching" my way forward slowly, without letting go of the clutch completely and keeping it at the bite point. The longer or further I inch forward, the further my clutch sticks and needs to be pressed in to keep the car from stalling, to the point where it needs to be pressed almost all the way in and the car is still moving forward even without pressing the gas. It also almost always happens when I'm sitting at a stop light and let the clutch out to the bite point and hold it there -- the longer I hold it at the bite point, the more the clutch needs to be pressed in to keep the car from stalling until the clutch is basically touching the floor and becomes stuck.

Any and all info is appreciated. I just recently purchased the car, and know that the clutch has never been replaced. It's a 2002 Z06 with ~108K miles on it. Thanks in advance!

 

I had the same issue with my '99 when it had 83k miles on the stock clutch. Tried many methods, including bleeding the entire system by reaching over the torque tube with a custom wrench to crack the bleeder. Even with new DOT4 fluid it began sticking to the floor again. I replaced the clutch with a mantic ER2, tick master, and remote bleeder and my problem has been solved. My brothers 01Z is experiencing the issue now and the clutch is just waiting to be put in.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

You have a leak somewhere. If you are not losing fluid, the leak is internal and you need a new master cylinder.

Does the "bite" point return to the normal position when fully released then re applied? If yes, it would definitely have me looking for a new master cylinder. The leak would be at the piston. Fluid is getting past the piston and allowing the pressure to fall.

 

I was hoping this wasn't the answer, although the it would be nice to have a light clutch.

The bite point does return to the normal position once fully released and re-applied, yes. The fluid level is stable and I don't seem to be losing any.

 

Sounds like a master cylinder is in order. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself. If you go with a stock one, it is pretty straightforward. If a TICK, beer and Valium may be needed. It is doable but can test your patience and nerves trying get the nuts loosened and reinstalled for the clutch pedal R&R. Either case, you don't need to replace the clutch so it isn't an expensive repair or very invasive.

 

Switching the master cylinder is a good idea if you don't want to dive into a new clutch right away. I did this as well and went with a TICK, like everyone has said you will need a few beers and patience to get the nuts lined up through the firewall. Unfortunately I still had to bleed the system by reaching over the torque tube when I did this. The sticking issue persisted and I ended up going clutch swap.
Where are you located? Talk to some local shops about end of the year deals on an LS7 clutch swap. That is impressive if your Z made it to 100k miles on the stock clutch.

 

My FRC did the same, I lived with it for a while as heads, cam, and clutch were in the works. You likely need a master but the master and slave have dust in the system.

The Tick install isn't a joy ride but doable. I have been a part of 2 Tick installs.

If you are at stock power levels, and intend to stay there, I would go with a new GM master. At 100k miles I would replace the clutch, master, slave, and inspect the bearings / couplers in the torque tube. Again at stock power levels, I would do new GM Master, GM slave, remote bleeder, and a LUK or LS7 clutch.

 

BINGO!!!



You have a BAD MASTER CYL!!

Bill

 

Thanks for everyone's input, it's all very much appreciated.

I'm resurrecting this thread since my clutch is now driving me insane. It has progressively gotten worse over time. I've been performing the ranger method (it does help for a bit) but the clutch pedal continues to want to stick to the floor. The fluid levels appear to remain stable, but the fluid does become murky after driving it for awhile.

To add to the mystery, there are times when my shifter almost refuses to go into first gear (and very rarely second ) and sometimes reverse. The shifter feels like you almost need to force it into gear. This makes me think that the clutch isn't disengaging and is somehow becoming stuck -- adding to my clutch pedal sticking to the floor. With the car turned off, the shifter can move freely without any issues -- but once the car is on it has a very difficult time shifting into first/reverse.

 

It is time to take it apart replace the hydraulics, clutch since it is out, and take the torque tube out and inspect the bearings/couplers. It will get worse until you get stranded. I don't mean to be a downer but this is likely the blunt truth. Add a remote bleeder like the one from Tick while you are in there so you can properly bleed it down the road.

I had many of the same problems and replaced the clutch and hydraulics for the new clutch to fail a few months later as the torque tube couplers were failing.

 

• Sounds to me like you got yourself a very high maintenance girl. 🤑🤑🤑🤑

 

I've read countless forum posts about people replacing the entire clutch and the issue persisting. The more I read, the more I believe that the above replies are accurate -- the master cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm going to buy a TICK Master and get it installed before yanking out the clutch.

I'm hoping that replacing the master cylinder, as suggested above, will do some good. All of the symptoms across the forums regarding clutch issues and the pedal sticking seem to match mine -- pedal sticking to the floor and inability to shift into 1st/reverse. Even on the TICK master cylinder description, it outlines these exact issues with the stock master.

Other than this goofiness, the car has been maintained and taken care of -- so she's worth it!

 

​​​​​​​Just wanted to give everyone an update about this issue. I purchased a TICK master cylinder for $300, and everything is back to normal again -- no need to replace the clutch or any other parts. The TICK also feels much better than the OEM MC.

Thanks everyone for their input.

 

I'm going to re-resurrect this thread due to my problems with (what I believe) my Tick MC/ RPS Twincarbon clutch. It is super stiff, and engages about halfway through the travel in about 1/8" from off, to on. I have been able to train my foot to get fairly consistent starts from a dead start, but every shift is clunky, not smooth. Bottom line; has anybody gone from a Tick back to stock? Will it install like a stock one, or do I have to drop the effin' pedal assy., like I did when installing the Tick?

 

It would be tricky to get to the socketed bolts which attach the Tick to the pedal assembly but could be possible. You might be able to get the Tick out with extensions and a swivel.

You can swap OEM masters without pulling the pedal