2000 6-speed transmission slipping
Had some body repair work last year and asked the shop owner if he would check the metallic tapping, since he has an extensive restoration/repair business. Well, he did, and informed me the noise was my transmission and would require pretty much a complete replacement. He then showed me the process of removing ample components around the drive train in order to get at the rear portion of the transmission, and the price tag would be several thousand, mainly due to the Corvette transmission design.I thanked him for the assessment and that's the last I saw of him.
So now I'm noticing resistance while shifting into 2nd gear more than I've experienced. I ensure the clutch is engaged and let the gears align, then the shift goes fine. However, I suspect something isn't quite right below my floorboards and wonder if anyone has some thoughts or advice on what I'm trying to describe, and will gladly answer your questions to better define my condition.
Thanks, Dboone555





It sounds like the clutch is NOT fully releasing. Try this:
Jack the rear wheels off the ground *set the car on stands* and crank the engine and have an assistant put the car into 1st gear with the clutch FULLY DEPRESSED.
See if the rear wheels DO NOT rotate. They should not rotate and or rotate slowly but easily STOPPED by hand. If they rotate,, Can you easiy stop them by hand?
If they are being driven and can NOT be stopped by hand, the clutch disk is NOT releasing fully.
If they are being DRIVEN, the transmission will NEVER shift properly!!! If you continue to drive the car in this condition you will damage the synchros and blocker rings
If the slave cyl and or throwout bearing is worn or damaged OR the fingers on the pressure plate are bent, that would be the NOISE and the reason that you can not fully disegage the clutch.
Do the test and report back.

Bill
It sounds like the clutch is NOT fully releasing. Try this:
Jack the rear wheels off the ground *set the car on stands* and crank the engine and have an assistant put the car into 1st gear with the clutch FULLY DEPRESSED.
See if the rear wheels DO NOT rotate. They should not rotate and or rotate slowly but easily STOPPED by hand. If they rotate,, Can you easiy stop them by hand?
If they are being driven and can NOT be stopped by hand, the clutch disk is NOT releasing fully.
If they are being DRIVEN, the transmission will NEVER shift properly!!! If you continue to drive the car in this condition you will damage the synchros and blocker rings
If the slave cyl and or throwout bearing is worn or damaged OR the fingers on the pressure plate are bent, that would be the NOISE and the reason that you can not fully disegage the clutch.
Do the test and report back.

Bill
Don
The alignment will not likely address any ticking noises but could improve the shifting effort.
Last edited by 3sACROWD; Dec 24, 2017 at 08:44 PM.
If you're sitting stopped, engine running, transmission in neutral, press the clutch and push it into 1st or 2nd. Is it hard to put it in either gear? Does it grind if you try to select reverse? All 3 are a symptom of a clutch that isn't fully disengaging when you press the pedal.
Don B





To eliminate SHIFTER ISSUES as being part of the problem, you will have to remove the center console to access the shifter. Then remove the rubber close out seal.
Shift the shifter and watch the shifter top plate fasteners that secure the shifter to the box. Make sure that they are NOT loose.
Watch the lower BOX to Torque Tube mounting bolta and rubber isolator bushings. If the lower box squirms and moves when you shift,,, THATS BAD and the bushings may be deteriorated and loose.
There is a coupling that connects the shifter lower box shaft to the transmission shift rod. It has a SINGLE PINCH JOINT BOLT. See if there is any looseness or lost motion there. There should NOT be any.
Alignment: There is a single HOLE on the front snout of the lower box. When the shifter handle is in neutral and 100% CENTERED (left/right/fwd/aft) , you should be able to insert a drill bit that fits snug into that hole (I think its a 1/8" bit). If the drill bit will not fully insert into the hole, loosen the shifter mounting bolts and move the box FWD or AFT until it does. Tighten the box mount fasteners. DONE! Remove the drill bit.


NOTE!! This is a C5 ZO6 shifter. It does NOT have the OEM rubber isolators under the mounting fasteners on the TT. Yours will if it is not a ZO6. They can rot and fall out.
If you have a stock shifter and no one has messed with it, you will have the little "L" shapped alignment tool as shown in the pic above.
NOTE2 Get your self a better shifter is yours is stock!!!!!!

KIRBAN Quick Shifter

Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Then took 3sACROWD advice and found the Froggie videos (2 each). Adding to his videos, just read Bill Curlee's response below, which clearly defines the process and includes photos.
Thanks a heap you guys. Will purchase a couple tools and get going on shifter alignment, which even if alignment is okay, will educate me on this aspect of the shifter mechanisms. Your expertise and interest in helping us "novice" mechanics is both inspiring and saves us some big bucks.
Don B, aka Dboone555







