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my Base 2003 C5 wont crank. it has a new battery. the cables and connections are good and clean. when i turn the key it does nothing, no clicks or anything. the dash lights and hood light go out like a bad battery or dirty cable connection but the headlights don't dim or blink so i know its not battery or connection related. there have been no warnings or codes showing on the dash.
Do you have a multi-meter that you can use to check the battery voltage? If so what is the voltage reading? What is the temperature where the car is located? Even a new battery can go bad or be drained if it sits very long without being driven. Cold climates can significantly lower a battery's ability to crank an engine. If it's cold where you're located and the battery voltage is less than 12.0 volts, you may need a jump start or a a better battery. Sometimes a cold battery can be brought inside, slowly warmed up to room temp and put back into the car for a successful start. The battery may not be the problem but it's the most common cause and should always be checked first.
Do you have a multi-meter that you can use to check the battery voltage? If so what is the voltage reading? What is the temperature where the car is located? Even a new battery can go bad or be drained if it sits very long without being driven. Cold climates can significantly lower a battery's ability to crank an engine. If it's cold where you're located and the battery voltage is less than 12.0 volts, you may need a jump start or a a better battery. Sometimes a cold battery can be brought inside, slowly warmed up to room temp and put back into the car for a successful start. The battery may not be the problem but it's the most common cause and should always be checked first.
A few weeks ago I installed a new Red Top battery and my car was totally dead. I could of swore my connections were good since they were clean and I snugged them being careful not to over tighten. After several days of aggravation I decided to put some dialectic grease on and make sure they were tight. Once I did that no more problems, good luck.
Unless you start doing some logical troubleshooting, you better have a LARGE bank account with lots of spare cash..
Obtain a multimeter and start with this circuit. Specifically the Theft Deterrent Relay.
The Theft Deterrent Relay is the HEART of the cranking system.. Get a meter and see if you have ignition voltage on the low voltage / low current side of the relay and then see if you have battery voltage from the 60 Amp fuse on the Low Voltage / HIGH CURRENT side of the relay..
You do not state if the car is an auto or M6, because it could be the clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch, it could also be bad pitted contacts on the ignition switch block. I would rule out the starter since you state that there is no clinking noise inside the car, hope this helps.
Originally Posted by C908
I forgot to mention I charged it before I installed it.
Have the wife get in the car and hold the key in the start position. Put a broom handle on the starter solenoid and give the end a couple whacks w a hammer. Hit it like it owes you money, no love taps. If it starts, you're looking at a new starter solenoid. They're unfortunately usually sold as a starter/solenoid unit. Appx $130. Starter on passenger side below the battery.
Try the free and easy stuff first.
Happy New Year- 97C5
Last edited by 97C5owner; Jan 1, 2018 at 08:33 PM.
I forgot to mention I charged it before I installed it.
You could still have a bad or discharged battery. Did you measure the voltage or load test it after you charged it?
And last week, just to add an anecdotal story to this, I went out to start my car and it was totally dead, no juice going to anywhere. I popped the hood to look at the battery and the negative terminal connection to the battery was loose. I tightened it up with a wrench and then all was well. Why that was loose was a mystery, it was pretty tight when I installed the battery 3 years ago, but stuff happens. Check your connections again and also make sure they are clean.
Hi, Went through the same issue on my 98' C5, no crank, followed the troubleshooting in the service manual, and ended up being the Starter circuit relay, as was bad since not energizing when the BCM put it to ground. A new relay after $30 at the dealer parts department, and turns right over....hope this helps.
Hi, Went through the same issue on my 98' C5, no crank, followed the troubleshooting in the service manual, and ended up being the Starter circuit relay, as was bad since not energizing when the BCM put it to ground. A new relay after $30 at the dealer parts department, and turns right over....hope this helps.
This is a 4 year old post...sure the OP has it fixed by now !!
Yea, i noticed how old they are, and during my diagnosing, I see alot of these threads are open ended, so thought I would throw my comments out there in case there is another as my self doing current diagnostic detective work..