I’m swapping a 99 ls1 into my 67 Chevelle. It’s a stock 5.7 out of a 99frc. I’m planning on using an overdrive automatic behind it. Not planning on changing heads for now. Since the engine is still on the stand and it has 116k on the clock I’m thinking a new timing chain and oil pump. So while I’m in there might as well upgrade the cam.

I known there are a lot of options and variables involved but thought some of you might have some suggestions based on your personal experiences.

 

I would buy a complete timing chain set with upper and lower sprockets.

Yes you could get a dozen responses on cams. I would call the vendors I listed in the topic below, and discuss idle, differential ratio, valve spring life, and stall converter before selecting a cam.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...v2-or-ms4.html

 

With an automatic and stock heads, I'd keep the cam small. Something in the low 2XX duration range.

 

I like the one I put in my rebuilt LS1 a couple of years ago. I bought this on the advice of one of the tech guys at Comp Cams. Here's an excerpt from an email he sent me:

"54-428-11 and that one is 228/230 on a 112 with 2 advance using the XFI RPM High Lift lobes as well so it would possibly give up a little low end and pull harder toward the top end."

I'd match that up with a Circle D 3200 stall converter - very happy running one of those in my Avalanche.

 

You should also consider new lifters (LS7 lifters will be fine) and upgrade the rocker trunnions (check out Straub Technologies).

There are tons of cam options, but I agree that since you're keeping the stock heads, don't go crazy on the cam. Talk to the folks at Cam Motion.

 

Brian Tooley Racing for $20 they recommend a custom cam based on your use.

 

Thanks for all the replies, all good info. I had thought about the lifters which I assumed always need to be replaced with a new cam but then someone reminded me the heads have to come off to replace them. Even the simplest refresh snowballs I guess.

 

Yes it does. LS1tech has more on the swap. I have a couple of friends that like the Holley swap parts.

A custom cam isn't needed and the shops are willing to have a discussion on a cam. The shops and cam manufacturers have 20 years developing cams for a cam only LS1 and the weight on your Chevelle isn't far off a 4th gen f-body. If the shop isn't willing to answer questions move on. It isn't like you're building, forced induction or power adder build, or trying to clear a massive max effort cam with aftermarket heads with a the bells and whistles.

I would recommend at minimum some LS7 lifters, head gaskets aren't that expensive for LS motors and I would buy GM gaskets. Yes it does snowball into new head bolts (or studs) as the OEM bolts are torque to yield. I would go ARP for the replacement hardware. I also agree on the trunnion upgrade especially as you go up in lift.

If cost is a concern, CamMotion does have a line of drop in cams which will run on GM valve springs and give nice torque gains.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-22rwtq.html
They do have a larger 210/216 drop in cam which I could see being a fun lower budget, easy on parts option for your Chevelle. They might even change some of the specs to give you a bit more lope but keep that mild camshaft lobe.

I recommend the SacCity alignment tool for the timing chain cover/ front main seal.

 

I would recommend new lifter buckets. (they're cheap).

For the timing chain, the LS2 chain is a nice upgrade over the LS1 and is cheap. The C5R chain is even better, but more expensive.

As 93Polo mentioned, the GM MLS head gaskets are cheap if you do end up pulling the heads.

You don't really need head studs, but the ARP head bolts are a worth while investment since (as mentioned), the factory head bolts are single use TTY.

You might also consider a new harmonic balancer as the factory one has been know to wobble. The ATI balancer is VERY nice, but also VERY expensive. Powerbond makes a quality OE type replacement. And again, the factory balancer bolt is TTY, so I'd recommend the ARP bolt.

And +1 on the SacCity alignment tools for the front and rear covers. They make aligning and installing the front seal and rear main seal a breeze.

If you want a bit more hp, the LS6 intake manifold is an upgrade over the LS1. Typically available used for not too much money. Though you'll want to research and be aware of the clearance concerns of the LS1 steam vent lines with the LS6 manifold.

And yes... it's a very slippery slope. I'm wrapping up an engine build right now so I know this all too well.

If you search "Scruf's Garage" on Youtube, I have an entire video series on all of the parts discussed above that might be helpful as a reference. (ATI balancer, SacCity AlignIt tools, lifters, cam, timing set, etc)

 

If you can show me how to replace lifters on an LS1 with the heads still bolted down, I'll buy you a beer.

 

I'll buy you an entire brewery.

 

hahahaha, sorry you're right. the mental picture in my head was the bare block like pictured above. that's what I get for trying to play on CF forum while I'm "working" too. sorry for the confusion, as you were.

 

Agree with the points above, the intake manifold is a looks vs budget vs HP debate. The early truck intakes make about the same power as an LS6 but are cheaper. They're also ugly but some have shaved and painted them which makes for a decent looking intake. The Trailblazer SS/NBS intake makes the most power of the OEM intakes but is ugly. Dorman also makes aftermarket LS6 and LS2 intakes. The intake change may result in needing to buy a larger throttlebody. The NBS and LS2 intake use larger throttle bodies.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/20-ls...ifolds-tested/

 

Pull the cam and let the lifters drop...

 

I have a ls6 intake already that I will probably use. I will probably take most all the advise offered so far even though it may slow the project down some. I dropped over $2,000 on Holley in December on a new oil pan (302-2) and their new FEAD system for engine swaps into A bodies and other platforms.

The big news with their system is they designed the water pump housing as the mounting brackets for all the accessories, alternator, power steering and air conditioning compressor. They borrowed a design feature from the new Lt engines in that the water pump impeller is a cartridge that can be replaced without removing the water pump casting, important since it would mean all the accessories would be coming off too without that feature. For that reason I decided I needed to replace all the normal wear items behind the pump plus make a best guess cam change. The reason for the high cost of the system is that it includes a new 150 amp alternator, new power steering pump, new air conditioning compressor, new harmonic balancer and every nut and bolt for all the mounts and accessories.

Wish I had a TV show budget but alas that is not to be so I will do what has to be done to make for a neat, trouble free and safe swap. And thanks again for everyone sharing their insight on cam selection and other options.