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how hard to convert to a E38 pcm?

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Old 01-12-2018, 12:13 PM   #1
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Default how hard to convert to a E38 pcm?

I'm in the process of installing a dry sump LS3 into a C5. It would make life easier if I could convert the pcm to a E38 pcm. Is it just a matter of wiring the C5 pcm harness to the corresponding pins in the E38?
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Old 01-12-2018, 01:19 PM   #2
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:04 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 3X2 View Post
It would make life easier if I could convert the pcm to a E38 pcm.
How? Just get the appropriate adapter harnesses and the LS3 will run fine on the C5 ECU. Look at what others have done as there is no need to reinvent the wheel here.


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Originally Posted by 3X2 View Post
Is it just a matter of wiring the C5 pcm harness to the corresponding pins in the E38?
I doubt the C5 BCM/gauges/modules/etc. will talk to the E38 PCM (E38 is CANBus), so you will likely lose everything in the car. So if your goal is to have a stripped down/race only car, then yes, it's a simple matter of rewiring the C5 engine harness to use the E38 PCM. If you want to actually have an otherwise "normal operating" C5, then no, it's not a simple matter.

Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; 01-12-2018 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:19 PM   #4
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Thanks for your thoughts. I've done a few LS3/7 C5 conversions. The problem is where to mount both the pcm and tac module when the dry sump tank takes up the area where they are normally located.They have all been race cars and mounted the C5 pcm/tac module on the floor or removed the glove box and mounted them there. The e38 would fit nicely where the a/c receiver/dryer used to sit, or I could mount where it is in a C6. I've used the Lingenfelter translator box before with the 58x trigger wheel and had 24x/1x engines built. The real question is where to mount the pcm/tac in a street C5.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:25 PM   #5
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Thanks for your thoughts. I've done a few LS3/7 C5 conversions. The problem is where to mount both the pcm and tac module when the dry sump tank takes up the area where they are normally located.They have all been race cars and mounted the C5 pcm/tac module on the floor or removed the glove box and mounted them there. The e38 would fit nicely where the a/c receiver/dryer used to sit, or I could mount where it is in a C6. I've used the Lingenfelter translator box before with the 58x trigger wheel and had 24x/1x engines built. The real question is where to mount the pcm/tac in a street C5.
I assume you are relocating the battery to the trunk correct? Can you mount the PCM and TAC in/around where the factory battery went? I realize the dry sump tank also passes thorough this area but I'd think they could both be made to fit.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:25 PM   #6
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:29 PM   #7
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I assume you are relocating the battery to the trunk correct? Can you mount the PCM and TAC in/around where the factory battery went? I realize the dry sump tank also passes thorough this area but I'd think they could both be made to fit.
Battery relocation is not a problem. I use a fabricated drop in battery box with a lid using a C6Z battery and cables.
They won't fit there with the tank, neither stock GM, Peterson, a.r.e. I've used them all in different builds. The C5 pcm is too bulking to mount ala C6 even if I mount the tac in another location.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:38 PM   #8
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Their choice for a retangular/trapazoidal tank is not good. No one uses anything but a round tank. Probably works ok for a street car, but not a dedicated race car.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:57 PM   #9
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Battery relocation is not a problem. I use a fabricated drop in battery box with a lid using a C6Z battery and cables.
Are you sticking the battery in the center or side wells? Where do you purchase the C6Z cables? Do you have some pictures as I'm planning to relocate my battery for long-term LS7 swap plan.
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:08 PM   #10
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Are you sticking the battery in the center or side wells? Where do you purchase the C6Z cables? Do you have some pictures as I'm planning to relocate my battery for long-term LS7 swap plan.
Battery goes in the r/r cubby hole. The box I have made requires cutting out the cubby hole. It drops down from the top and is secured to the tub with bolts and nutserts. Stock C6Z battery cables from a GM dealer. Carpet may or may not fit. I weld a battery ground stud same place as a C6Z or you could weld a 3/8" bolt to the top of the rear impact bar, drill a hole in the rear of the tub, and run the ground cable to the stud.

The car that has this box is not here so I can't take pictures of it.

Last edited by 3X2; 01-12-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 04:32 PM   #11
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Battery goes in the r/r cubby hole. The box I have made requires cutting out the cubby hole. It drops down from the top and is secured to the tub with bolts and nutserts. Stock C6Z battery cables from a GM dealer. Carpet may or may not fit. I weld a battery ground stud same place as a C6Z or you could weld a 3/8" bolt to the top of the rear impact bar, drill a hole in the rear of the tub, and run the ground cable to the stud.

The car that has this box is not here so I can't take pictures of it.
How much does the box cost and how would I get one made?
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:39 PM   #12
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Let me find out. I'm in the process of building a dry sump car right now. I need one for this car.
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:20 PM   #13
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Let me find out. I'm in the process of building a dry sump car right now. I need one for this car.
No big rush. Just when you can, I'd love to have one. Are you making them out of fiberglass or metal?
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:40 PM   #14
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