Looking for some guidance on installing new end links. Wheels on the ground or hanging in the air? I've seen references to both.

Thoughts?

 

air both at the same time

[1QUOTE=unlvrebel;1596403036]Looking for some guidance on installing new end links. Wheels on the ground or hanging in the air? I've seen references to both.

Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

 

I installed mine with the car in the air, doing it that way will preload them

 

car at ride height, 1/2 tank fuel, driver weight in seat. Adjust as short as possible so bolts go in freely. Above replies are not correct.

 

His question I believe was about the removal and installation NOT the set up! As long as both Left and Right Suspension heights are the same that is key. Is the sweet spot( because of suspension geometry) easiest when A arms are closest to actual ride height.....maybe. As long as the A arms are not at different heights is the key. Would like to hear why the end links should be as short as possible ?

 

In the 100's of C5/6/7's I've prepped, none ever had the distance from the bar to the control arm the same with the wheels hanging. Installing end links correctly requires the car at desired ride height.

 

Thanks for the replies fellas...

Sorry if my question is a bit unclear. Yes to install and yes to set up. I found this article on install and set up that calls for having the wheels hanging free.

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2014...k-replacement/

But a search for forum-type threads almost always say that the wheels should be on the ground.

Finally all instructions - Pfadt, Hotchkis, etc. - are completely silent as to hanging loose versus at ride height...

 

You MAY want to have the car jacked up, to provide additional work room while installing the links.

HOWEVER..........


To properly adjust the links, the car has to have the suspension loaded, with the car at ride height. The links are adjusted so the center of the sway bar is perpindicular to the ground.

It might be easier to do, if the car is on ramps, so you have more room to work, and you can adjust the links much easier.

 

That article shows replacing 1st design plastic non adjustable endlinks with 2nd design aluminum non adjustable endlinks. Doesn't matter if the suspension is at ride height or not.
Again the car needs to be at the desired ride height and freely install the bolts into the control arms. If you jack the car up, bolt one end of each link to the sway bar, drive the car a short distance, 50 feet or so, to settle the suspension then adjust the length of the links so the bolts goes easily into the arm.

 

Do you mean horizontal and not perpendicular? The endlinks are installed after the car is cornerweighted. Neither one or both bars may or may not be horizontal to the ground. The purpose of doing it at ride height is not to preload the sway bar.

 

I should have said parallel......I was thinking of many other GM car's bars, when I originally typed out my reply, and was thinking the "arms" of the bars should be parallel to the ground, then I realized the C-5's arms curve up, under normal circumstances, so it's the center of the bar has to be parallel.

Then I tried to correct the post, but didn't get it right.....

 

Maybe a couple of pictures might better illustrate my point.







The pictures could be a little better, but with the car on the ground, in the garage, all covered up for the winter, it's tough to get a good shot. However, I hope that the pictures illustrate how the bar sits, relative to the frame and ground.

 

Hmmm... Sorry to be a total newb when it comes to suspension...

So I reset my sway bar and end links with the car weighted. My initial feel is that the steering felt a little sluggish compared to the preloaded sway bar (end links installed with wheels hanging). Could just be confirmation bias on my part thinking that the handling would be different...

Now to the setting of the end links... With the car in a "weighted position", I can install my end links at a variety of geometries... Not the whole range of the end link mind you, but over part of the adjustment range... Tilt the bar up a little, open the threads on the end link and attach. Tilt the bar down a little, tighten the end link threads a bit and attach... Is one preferred over another?

 

Reviving this thread. I have ZIP HD end links with adjustable length. I emailed them on the proper way to set up the end link lengths - we'll see if I hear anything back. Meanwhile - I found a PDF by PFADT Race Engineering on setup of Johnny O'Connell sway bar - while I do not have this product - I wanted to see what it said about the end link setup - "For best performance remove any preload in the sway bar while the suspension is loaded - this is best done on a 4-post lift. It is also possible to set the car down on blocks or ramps so that the end links can be accessed while the suspension is loaded. After the end link length is adjusted to remove any preload - lock down the length by tightening the jam nuts." I guess this business about "preload removal" will become obvious once the end links are released - the car is on blocks - and I get my hands on the sway bar. It also includes torque specs - End link bolts 50ft-lb, bushing brackets (C6 Z06) 34ft-lb, bushing brackets (non C6 Z06) 48ft-lb - I have a C5 FRC which I guess counts as a non C6 Z06. Also noted is the comment about the sway bar "orientation to the ground"....

https://www.zip-corvette.com/97-16-a...-link-kit.html

 

So, do I need to dig a pit ?? My C5 sets so low now I have to get the wife to hold up the wheel well just to get a jack under the lift points !!! Wanting to put in adjustable links but can't seem to get any REAL answers on benefits of going adjustable.Yes, I do plan to run for fun at Las Vegas Speedway, that's the only reason I wanted adjustable links. Stay parallel to the axle or horizontal to the ground ??

 

With a car as low as a Corvette. I strongly suggest that you invest in a set of 4, equal height, ramps. The ones I have are only 2.5" high, but it's enough to allow me to have some access to the underside, as well as allowing a jack to get under the car. I found them online, a number of years ago, at a site called "ramps-R-us", or something as meaningful as that.

With respect to the adjustable links, I went with them for two reasons. 1) since I lowered my car, I wanted to have the ability to set the lower portion of the sway bar parallel to the road, as previously mentioned; 2) the adjustable links are also more rigid, by design, so they respond more quickly to changes in loading, as the car rolls through the turns.

 

The purpose of adjustable endlinks is allow the bar not to have any preload in it. With the car at ridehieght, alignes, and cornerweighted, adjust the endlinks so the bolts go through into the control arms freely.

 

I agree, BUT, adjust the length of the first link installed, so the bar is parallel to the ground, then the other link so it slides into the bar freely.....

 

why?

 

Thanks Leadfoot and others !! This is what I needed to know. I read all the tech data as well as different forams as to what is the best set up for my Vette, but real Champion's don't give up all their secrets. At least I have more understanding now. I recently purchased a set of Misimoto end links.that I plan to install as soon as the new sway bars arrive. We"ll see if "Jonhny"s" branded bar makes that much difference.
Thanks Again Guy's !! Stay Loose, Stay Fast and Stay Safe !!