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10,000 motor alone, then to convert everything to that motor with all electrical, transmission, e.t.c? I bet noone has because the cost to do it far outweighs any benefit.
by the end it could cost upwards of 20K if it can be done in the first place without major fabbing/cutting. I think the newest motor put in a C5 was an LS7 427 and it was a bit of work. Some people are trying an lsx454 but no progress on that yet. The sheer weight alone of a bigger motor will throw off the balance too.
The LS is such a great platform for retrofits that it doesn't make sense to go with the LT. You would also have to deal with DOD, VVT, and the inherent issues that direct injection has. I like ease of repair and maintenance. With the LT it makes everything more complicated. It works great in the new vette, but could be a headache when it comes to a motor swap. Just my opinion though....
A Gen 5 motor is far more involved than than swapping to a Gen 4 motor, it would likely require a complete ECU/harness swap not a simple LPE 58x to 24x box.
Sorry I've been missing. I would like to continue so.
"what would I like to get out of this swap"?
I am not looking for anything other than a reliable semi regular HPDE C5 Vette with Dry sump system.
I would look to purchase a drop out with harness and ecu ect... I know motor mounts, power steering pump and upper center bolt on bell housing are just a few hurdles. But for the price of some units I've seen within driving distance from my home make it very tempting. Same price or cheaper than LS3 with dry sump included from GS Vette. I can pull the trigger on a LS3 crate with 525hp but then I have to worry about oil starvation from side G loading with slicks. Price in a base dry sump system to cure that and your over 10 grand in a blink! So basically that's it. Not interested for any another reason other than cost and reliability.
Frank, what if you did the LS3, swapped in ported LS6 cathedral heads and ran an accusump? The LS6 heads should help with oil starvation and then youd have the accusump as backup.
Frank, what if you did the LS3, swapped in ported LS6 cathedral heads and ran an accusump? The LS6 heads should help with oil starvation and then youd have the accusump as backup.
Just a thought.
So the thought is the oil return in the LS3 heads is issue with oil starvation at pick-up? I have been all over the map....this is tough when I've wasted 2 months on supposidily low mileage take outs . Season is a month away and I was in side line for almost all of last year. The accusump I've heard mixed reviews but I'm open to ideas. I believe the rectangle port has flow benifuys
So the thought is the oil return in the LS3 heads is issue with oil starvation at pick-up? I have been all over the map....this is tough when I've wasted 2 months on supposidily low mileage take outs . Season is a month away and I was in side line for almost all of last year. The accusump I've heard mixed reviews but I'm open to ideas. I believe the rectangle port has flow benifuys
That's one school of thought. You might also call improved racing and ask them their thoughts. They have an oil pan baffle they claim helps oil starvation up to 1.4 Gs.
10,000 motor alone, then to convert everything to that motor with all electrical, transmission, e.t.c? I bet noone has because the cost to do it far outweighs any benefit.
by the end it could cost upwards of 20K if it can be done in the first place without major fabbing/cutting. I think the newest motor put in a C5 was an LS7 427 and it was a bit of work. Some people are trying an lsx454 but no progress on that yet. The sheer weight alone of a bigger motor will throw off the balance too.
I'm about 90% certain the LT motors are the same size with the same mounting points as the LS motors. The one thing I read was that the LS 6L80e needs some slight modifications (mostly shaving off an area) due to a sensor there on the LT that wasn't there on the LS. The transmission mounting pattern is the same.
I think most of the LS7 work comes from the dry sump and running upgrades to the engine itself, maybe fuel pump. Physically speaking, it is still the same as the other LS engines.
How do people get THIS far off the map??????????? There is no voodoo in making the LS1/6 live on track.
Unless you are a VERY experienced driver, you won't be on slicks for a good long while. I run on slicks with a stock LS6, only mod is restricted push rods. No oil cooler....no dry sump, no nothing.
Improved racing batwing pan baffles
Accusump
Oil cooler
Pull and clean the outer fins of the radiator(and keep them clean)
Run +1 quart of oil per the manual
Schwanke .040 restricted pushrods
Shift the car at 6,000 rpm
Pac 1218 valve springs
Buy tires and brake pads, have a BALL
I built my LS6 recently, I specified to the cam grinder I wanted a cam that bested the LS6 cam everywhere so I did not have to spin the engine to the moon to get the power. I wanted to keep shifting at 6,000 to benefit so I didn't pump oil up top with all that RPM.....he delivered.
This is an 11 to 1 LS6, stock head port, stock intake.
The LS6 in stock form with just exhaust, intake and tune makes a good bit of steam at 380 ish to the wheels. This is a LOT of power on a road course in a 3100lb car, why anyone would need more is really beyond me, if you can't go fast with 440 crank HP you need to learn to drive.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Mar 12, 2018 at 10:44 AM.
What's wrong with simply wanting more power? If you have a C5 with a blown/damaged engine, what's wrong with wanting to swap in GM's latest and greatest?
Not everyone builds their car for road racing, or even racing in general. Others build for drag racing. Some just build to say they were able to build it.
LS6 is naturally a very good engine for oiling issues, from what my research shows me.
I think the simplest solution is an LS3 with either a dry sump setup, or, for less money, an accusump setup. 525 crank horsepower if you get a hot crate LS3. Accusump is ~$1500 installed, dry sump is double that (or more), give or take depending on how much you DIY. Would probably add a fat oil cooler, thermostat, and baffles. Maybe a drainback from the valve covers.
A used LS6 with the aforementioned stuff is a fair bit less power, but also way cheaper.
The more expensive but wilder solution would be an LS7, and figure out the dry sump situation.
