my name is joel i have an arctic white 99 m6 and like every other ls1 out there delco balancer is walking. since i have to pull the balancer anyway how much harder is a cam change with engine still in place? ive done many cam swaps in ls engines on a stand but never in a chassis.

 

If you plan on changing the lifters and trays (recommended), you'll need to pull the intake manifold and heads.

 

I have a really low mileage car and j just want a little thump at idle i was gun a go with the tsp stage 3 low lift kit with a 111lsa. You think i still should pull the heads?

 

The heads have to be pulled if you swap the lifters and trays

 

after you get the balancer pulled, you're close pull radiator hold the ac condenser out of the way and you can get the cam out. If you don't plan on changing the lifters, there's a way to hold them out of the way with a couple of wood dowels or rods. not much more work as long as you're replacing the balancer

 

Not sure if it's still the best choice, but the GM Hotcam should give you a nice bump in power without having to change the valve springs.

 

Changing the lifters is not required (although not a bad idea) but the valve springs and pushrods are necesary. How many miles? A ls2 timing chain for $45+\- and maybe a new oil pump since you're removing the old one. Maybe consider a little more cam since your going throught the effort and you have a manual trans. My 222/226 .600 112 drives nice and easy.

 

Have you factored in that you will need to have the PCM tuned to get the idle straight and the most out of the cam install??

New timing chain LS2 or better..
Timing chain dampener
Recommend new Melling oil pump
New valve springs
Pushrods
Front cover gasket,
dampener seal
Valve rocker arm bushing kit! ( highly recommended)

 

If you're wanting "a little more thump at idle, the Hot Cam" would work.
Time for a C-5, and Bill Curlee are both correct. You need to change the springs and push rods. I believe Chevy recommends the LS6 springs for the Hot Cam and typically has kits with both the cam and springs together. Or, pick up replacement springs from any of the forum sponsors who offer engine parts.
Even though it is more money (but not a huge amount), Bill's recommendations for other parts are valid. You are already there; the front of the engine is disassembled for the cam, so go ahead and add these few parts when putting it back together. No point in doing it twice. If you're doing the work, your time is valuable. If you're paying a shop to install the cam and dampener (balancer), you'll pay several hundred dollars more if you have to go back later to replace a timing chain, oil pump or whatever else. I even went a little farther during my rebuild and added the water pump, too.
The only challenge I see, is that some '97-99 engine blocks had holes for mounting the timing chain dampener and some blocks did not. There are kits you can buy that have an adapter plate for the chain dampener if you have to go that way and if you chose not to drill the holes in your block.
Best wishes with your modding.

Look at ATI or Powerbond for your replacement harmonic balancer/dampener. I'm not aware of anyone that has had great results putting a replacement GM dampener on.

 

Check out LS1HOWTO.com. They have a C5 cam install write-up with pictures. The main parts are you have to remove the radiator and the steering rack. You have to remove the steering rack anyway to change the balancer. But it can be done on jackstands in a driveway in a weekend.

If you are low miles, you do not have to change your lifters, so not need for head removal.

You would also need a tune to take full advantage of any cam.

This rabbit hole is bottomless.