w_vette

2003 FRC Z06

I have replaced:
Shocks (C6 Upgrade)
Both Front Sway Bar End Links
Front Left Tie Rod End
Front Left Upper Ball Joint

It used to only clunk at slow speeds while turning, but now after replacing all these items, it clunks all the time even going straight.
After the shock install last night, the clunking is 10 times worse, like the added stiffness exaggerates the clunk.
It all sounds like front left.

Ideas?

Sydwayz

I had a loose bolt in the front suspension that was causing my clunk. I cannot remember what bolt it was exactly, but I may have been part of the cradle as well.
Have you tightened every single bolt under the front end?

~Josh

Tighten the 4 large fasteners on the bottom of the engine cradle that holds it to the frame. When they get loose it allows the cradle to shift/move a little.

You can see the large holes on the corners where the bolts would be sticking downward through. Do not use an air tool to tighten, use hand tools.

google pic

w_vette

Ill try the cradle bolts this afternoon and then tighten everything I can get a wrench on.

Thanks

bravo29

Have you check the steering rack bushings? Neighbor had same issue and turned out it was the steering rack bushings were worn out.

Replaced and no more clunk over bumps.

Bill Curlee

ALSO,,,,,,,,,,, Have an assistant sit behind the wheel.. Engine running, park/e-brake set, wheels chocked.

Have the assistant move the steering wheel slightly LEFT & RIGHT "JUST ENOUGH" to slightly move the wheels. While they do that, examine ALL the suspension component movable joints, suspension bushings and steering rack mounting points when the wheel is being constantly moved.

The force needed to move the tires will show ANY lost motion, loose components and issues.

PLEASE repot findings.

Bill

Bill Curlee

If you don't find the issue moving the steering wheel left and right, jack up one front wheel and do the wheel HUB bearing test. Push/pull the tire at the 12:00 & 06:00 O clock position and see if the front wheel hub has ANY slop. A good hub bearing will have little to no slop.

Do that for both front wheels. Doing the rears wouldn't hurt either as they go bad more frequently than the fronts..

While the wheel is in the air, use a long lever, (crowbar or long 2X4) and insert it under the wheel and pry UP and down. Examine the lower ball joint for any slop. Should NOT be any or if there is VERY LITTLE.

Bill

Bill

Vetteman Jack

Moved to C5 Tech.

w_vette

runner140*

Good advice. Recently had a similar problem with the rear end, it was two full turns on the tie rod bolt. Problem was gone.

P.S. Sorry, didn't get to your above post before I posted.

bravo29

I know its hard for a vette but was the car lifted or on the ground while doing this?

You may have to jack up the car and then jack up each tire to tap test each side. Don't let the car sit jacked up from the cradle do it on jack stands and hockey pucks.

Are you sure its not a motor mount issue?

w_vette

Car was on a two post lift.
I have a 4 post alignment rack I can put it on so the suspension is loaded if that would be better.

It could be motor mounts, but at 30k miles I would hope they are still okay. Ill check on 4 post rack this afternoon.

Thank you

bravo29

Yep that is what I thought of my 2k trans am at one time. 32K miles and had a bad motor mount. Never driven in winter but it dry rotted and had to replace one of them.

w_vette

Not sure what I did but I took my sway bar mounts down to tighten the subframe bolts (which were already tight) and then re-installed.

I also lowered the front height bolts by a few turns and now all the clunk went away. So either it was the leaf spring/bolts or the sway bar was misaligned?

not sure if it will come back but it is gone from doing virtually nothing.

Irish Whiskey

how does one get under the car when this is being done to see what is happening?

bravo29

If tires still on jack up the car and use cinder blocks under the tires. Go as high as you can.

or

Use a wheel aliment lift at a shop.

Bill Curlee

NEVER support a car on cinder blocks!!

The C5 is low but you can get down low and inspect some of the suspension components.

Some can be inspecte with the hood open and a good light. You can also use an inspection mirror. If you have a lift, that lifts the car by the wheels, it mkes it relly easy.


Be SAFE doing work on any car!!!

Bill