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Brake fluid green slime

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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 05:33 PM
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Default Brake fluid green slime

What is this green crap in the brake fluid reservoir? Looks like green grease. I guess this is the crap plugging the EBCM you told me about. I am scheduled to have oil and brake fluid changed on Tuesday.

What is the best way to exercise the EBCM to get that gummy stuff moving out of the ports? should I do this prior to having the fluid changed or will the fluid change clean it all out?
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 05:59 PM
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that is from lack of flushing the fluid... make sure the shop does a complete bleed from the calipers and don't just change out the fluid in the brake master or the new fluid will quickly become contaminated again... if it were my car I would probably buy an extra pint or 2 of fluid to make sure I got all that crap out
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 06:38 PM
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Guess i should have the power steering fluid changed now. Last year trans and diff fluid were changed.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 12:07 AM
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microbiological growth. basically algy. too much moisture in the brake fluid
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:08 AM
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Do you know the history of the car?
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 06:00 AM
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You should do a complete flush and then repeat it regularly. suck everything out with a bulb and get a rag in there best you can. If the shop has the proper diagnostic meter to do an electronic flush of the ABS, it should be done. I went to a guy who had the tool, but didn't know how to use it. Choice two is to find wet grass somewhere and slam on the brakes several times to activate the ABS, which circulates the fluid. Jeeze, that fluid must have absorbed moisture for years. I'd also be concerned about cross-contaminating the clutch reservoir right next to it, and give that a good clean flush--at least the master. If the clutch master is also contaminated, go to the racing forum and look up the "modified ranger method" to flush the clutch slave and line. You really should do this yourself, as it's going to take several times probably.
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 09:01 PM
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I changed mine at three years even though the manual says five, which is longer than I believe is advisable. Historically I've always used two years as my guide. I used a HFT vacuum bleeder #92624 that I purchased after doing some checking and reassuring myself it was a quality device. You connect it to a compressor and the process is quite quick and easy. It took ~2/3 qt. of DOT3 fluid to flush, but I didn't purge the ABS module since it holds little fluid and the tutorials I read claimed it was unnecessary. I may do it next time if someone will provide a detailed tutorial of the process.

My GS calipers each has two bleeder screws and I bled the inside first using the order RR, LR, RF, LF.

Last edited by iclick; Sep 10, 2020 at 09:02 PM.
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