Engine shutoff at 1-2 mph w column lock error 🤨 HELP!
03-12-2018, 01:50 PM
#1
Engine shutoff at 1-2 mph w column lock error 🤨 HELP!
I have a 99 FRC which I’ve owned since 2000. The cars been sitting for awhile and a few weeks ago I had to have the car jumped by AAA, at which time I drove around without issue but decided that I probably needed a new battery. When I installed the new battery and started the car up I’m now getting a ‘steering column lock’ error. The column isn’t actually locked, but the error is causing the engine to automatically stall out as soon as you get going up to a speed of more than a mile or two . It’s pretty annoying and is obviously a computer issue brought on by the introduction of the new battery. I’m curious if there’s an ‘easy’ solution (one which doesn’t require installing / removing anything), and if not what is the easiest / quickest and most affordable solution.
also, i’m fairly certain that the recall was taken care of for my car in the early 2000s, if this matters.
also, i’m fairly certain that the recall was taken care of for my car in the early 2000s, if this matters.
03-12-2018, 02:41 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
The "recall" on this was a total and complete failure.
do as advised above.
Also check your battery, it may start your car, but not be able to overcome this affliction.
do as advised above.
Also check your battery, it may start your car, but not be able to overcome this affliction.
03-12-2018, 04:18 PM
#5
Ha, the same problem struck me on Saturday when I was 100 miles from home. Buy and install the LCM5 for $40, or have the dealer fix it for a few hundred dollars. I have an LCM5 enroute to me.
03-12-2018, 10:15 PM
#7
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Get the LMC5 and not worry about the column lock again.
03-12-2018, 11:56 PM
#8
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If the battery was completely dead, you need to fully charge it. Jumping isn't good enough. Same thing happened when my dad owned mine. He let it sit all winter with no battery tender. Next spring it was completely dead. It would start when jumped, but the fuel cutoff would kick in and immediately kill it. He did not have an LMC5 installed at the time.
I've since installed one, but I don't let my battery go dead either so I don't know if it actually prevents the problem.
I've since installed one, but I don't let my battery go dead either so I don't know if it actually prevents the problem.
03-13-2018, 10:13 AM
#11
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03-13-2018, 11:44 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
What's the reserve capacity on that new battery?
A video posted here years ago with some GM Technician said these cars need a RC of 120.
I realized the battery in my car didn't have that and I had the problem when car sat a while.
Replaced with a 110RC battery AC Delco, now I have a 110RC Costco battery and since having these batteries never had the problem again.
I could not find a 120RC, so that's why 110RC. There was a Odessy battery with 120RC but it was almost $350.00, way too expensive!
I know people are going to say I'm taking a chance and I'll be stranded one day.
The Technician on the video explained that there needs to be a certain voltage before the car even starts, if it's not enough the steering wheel will never unlock as the computer (not sure what module) needs a certain voltage.
It made sense. People think (I did too) if the battery has enough umph to start the engine up, it's good enough.
He explained that's amps, not volts.
A video posted here years ago with some GM Technician said these cars need a RC of 120.
I realized the battery in my car didn't have that and I had the problem when car sat a while.
Replaced with a 110RC battery AC Delco, now I have a 110RC Costco battery and since having these batteries never had the problem again.
I could not find a 120RC, so that's why 110RC. There was a Odessy battery with 120RC but it was almost $350.00, way too expensive!
I know people are going to say I'm taking a chance and I'll be stranded one day.
The Technician on the video explained that there needs to be a certain voltage before the car even starts, if it's not enough the steering wheel will never unlock as the computer (not sure what module) needs a certain voltage.
It made sense. People think (I did too) if the battery has enough umph to start the engine up, it's good enough.
He explained that's amps, not volts.
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; 03-13-2018 at 11:49 AM.
03-13-2018, 12:28 PM
#13
Drifting
03-13-2018, 01:31 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
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The LMC5 may be great for some, but others have trouble. And, it is a nightmare to install.
My 18 year old CLB worked fine two decades ago, and is still going great. And, it is much easier to install, without having to phone the engineer.
My 18 year old CLB worked fine two decades ago, and is still going great. And, it is much easier to install, without having to phone the engineer.
03-13-2018, 02:15 PM
#15
Safety Car
nightmare to install? It literally took less than 5 minutes when I did it. The hardest part was putting the carpet back in
03-14-2018, 12:54 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
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Then why the MULTITUDE of posts about how it doesn't work, having to call the seller of the device (who has a great reputation for helping,) or having to go back and do the brown wire mod. Or that it doesn't work on 97'-99'! No thanks!! The CLB has worked for great for decades.
03-14-2018, 01:08 PM
#18
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Then why the MULTITUDE of posts about how it doesn't work, having to call the seller of the device (who has a great reputation for helping,) or having to go back and do the brown wire mod. Or that it doesn't work on 97'-99'! No thanks!! The CLB has worked for great for decades.
As far as what device to use, he has two options... As usual, most are loyal to what they purchased!
03-14-2018, 03:36 PM
#19
Safety Car
Then why the MULTITUDE of posts about how it doesn't work, having to call the seller of the device (who has a great reputation for helping,) or having to go back and do the brown wire mod. Or that it doesn't work on 97'-99'! No thanks!! The CLB has worked for great for decades.
You're right, both will work and generally be reliable. I think the lmc5 Is the best solution because there are zero moving parts to fail, and no interior parts that can (and will) crack have to be removed.
03-14-2018, 06:40 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
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I'm sure a CLB has failed, but I've never heard of it. One thing for a new owner.............it would be a good time to also remove the climate control head and send it in for soldering and new LEDs.....................since the same bezel has to be removed. At least there are no fasteners to break, the bezel is all screws.