Alot of mechanical / electronic issues (HELP)
#1
7th Gear
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Location: Curacao Willemstad
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Alot of mechanical / electronic issues (HELP)
Dear All,
I think I will need you guys help
I have a C5 convertible 2000
I bought with some mechanical / electronic issues
---------------------------
car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected. I need to take off the battery every time I want to start the car (IF I TAKE THE KEYS OUT THE IGNITION)
when I don't take it off and try to start it gives me the error "reduced engine power" while the car has not even started yet
all lights goes on in dash (oil pressure doesn't work , fuel level works now and then, check gages light on, check engine on, airbags on, and so on
I had a friend who came by to help me getting the codes
when the car gives reduced engine power it does not communicate with the BCM (it says no communication) then I need to take off battery for like 5 seconds and the put it back to start
here are the codes
please don't let me lose my hope
PCM
P0113
P1111
P1432
TCM
C1225
C1281
U1255
I think I will need you guys help
I have a C5 convertible 2000
I bought with some mechanical / electronic issues
---------------------------
car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected. I need to take off the battery every time I want to start the car (IF I TAKE THE KEYS OUT THE IGNITION)
when I don't take it off and try to start it gives me the error "reduced engine power" while the car has not even started yet
all lights goes on in dash (oil pressure doesn't work , fuel level works now and then, check gages light on, check engine on, airbags on, and so on
I had a friend who came by to help me getting the codes
when the car gives reduced engine power it does not communicate with the BCM (it says no communication) then I need to take off battery for like 5 seconds and the put it back to start
here are the codes
please don't let me lose my hope
PCM
P0113
P1111
P1432
TCM
C1225
C1281
U1255
#2
Le Mans Master
Sounds like an excellent time for a road trip for Bill Curlee!!!
Valentino, you might want to explain your first statement, "car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected." I'm not sure what you mean by the 'battery pulley'?
When you pulled the codes, they should have a "C" and or an "H" after them. The C means it is a current fault, while the H means it is an old fault. Sometimes it will have both a C and an H after the code. This information is also important in diagnosing your problem.
Bill Curlee may see this post soon and comment. He is one of the electrical guru's here on the Forum and will likely have some good advice.
Good luck... GUSTO
Valentino, you might want to explain your first statement, "car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected." I'm not sure what you mean by the 'battery pulley'?
When you pulled the codes, they should have a "C" and or an "H" after them. The C means it is a current fault, while the H means it is an old fault. Sometimes it will have both a C and an H after the code. This information is also important in diagnosing your problem.
Bill Curlee may see this post soon and comment. He is one of the electrical guru's here on the Forum and will likely have some good advice.
Good luck... GUSTO
#3
Le Mans Master
In case you don't know what the individual codes mean, here they are...
P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Low Voltage
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1281 Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
Good luck... GUSTO
P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Low Voltage
C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
C1281 Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
#4
7th Gear
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Sounds like an excellent time for a road trip for Bill Curlee!!!
Valentino, you might want to explain your first statement, "car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected." I'm not sure what you mean by the 'battery pulley'?
When you pulled the codes, they should have a "C" and or an "H" after them. The C means it is a current fault, while the H means it is an old fault. Sometimes it will have both a C and an H after the code. This information is also important in diagnosing your problem.
Bill Curlee may see this post soon and comment. He is one of the electrical guru's here on the Forum and will likely have some good advice.
Good luck... GUSTO
Valentino, you might want to explain your first statement, "car wont start if you let the battery pulley connected." I'm not sure what you mean by the 'battery pulley'?
When you pulled the codes, they should have a "C" and or an "H" after them. The C means it is a current fault, while the H means it is an old fault. Sometimes it will have both a C and an H after the code. This information is also important in diagnosing your problem.
Bill Curlee may see this post soon and comment. He is one of the electrical guru's here on the Forum and will likely have some good advice.
Good luck... GUSTO
+/- cables of the battery, when is put the key in ignition it will start, but when turn off the engine and I take the key out the ignition it wont start again until I take the battery off to reset. and then it will start again
I don't know but I feel like the BCM is NOT ok
#5
Instructor
Your bcmis probably ok. You need to sync the bcm to pcm. This is the procedure I used to do it with my new engine. I hoped it from the forums long ago and can't credit who originally posted this. I placed mine on a battery charger so it did not die.... here you go
Disable the headlights, daytime running lights; turn off the radio, etc., in short cut the power to all lights and accessories. This is to prevent battery power drain. Battery should be FULLY CHARGED before this procedure begins.
Turn the key to the "on" position, until the 'security' light goes out or quits alternately flashing between "Security" and "Battery". This relearn period always takes 10 minutes. How long does this take? 10 minutes. How long do I have to wait? 10 minutes.
After security light is no longer displayed, turn the key to the off position!
Wait 5-10 seconds and repeat the above procedure. two more times for a total of 3 start/relearn/attempts, remembering to shut the key off between each 10-minute relearn procedure.
This will take 30 minutes; no less.
If the car fails to start you did one relearn step (or all of them incorrectly).
If you left your headlamps on until the battery went dead and voltage dropped below 10.5 volts, no amount of relearn attempts will be learned!
P.S. Waiting a full 11-minutes instead of the “10-minutes” in the above procedure will insure better results – in other words you MUST allow at least 10-minutes to pass in each above procedure. (Waiting at least 10-minutes in required, but no sense in waiting 15-minutes for example)
That will marry the two computers to each other. You can do it faster if you have a tech II. Good luck let us know the results
Disable the headlights, daytime running lights; turn off the radio, etc., in short cut the power to all lights and accessories. This is to prevent battery power drain. Battery should be FULLY CHARGED before this procedure begins.
Turn the key to the "on" position, until the 'security' light goes out or quits alternately flashing between "Security" and "Battery". This relearn period always takes 10 minutes. How long does this take? 10 minutes. How long do I have to wait? 10 minutes.
After security light is no longer displayed, turn the key to the off position!
Wait 5-10 seconds and repeat the above procedure. two more times for a total of 3 start/relearn/attempts, remembering to shut the key off between each 10-minute relearn procedure.
This will take 30 minutes; no less.
If the car fails to start you did one relearn step (or all of them incorrectly).
If you left your headlamps on until the battery went dead and voltage dropped below 10.5 volts, no amount of relearn attempts will be learned!
P.S. Waiting a full 11-minutes instead of the “10-minutes” in the above procedure will insure better results – in other words you MUST allow at least 10-minutes to pass in each above procedure. (Waiting at least 10-minutes in required, but no sense in waiting 15-minutes for example)
That will marry the two computers to each other. You can do it faster if you have a tech II. Good luck let us know the results
#7
Instructor
When I put my ls6 in it would not start but would hit then die giving the reduced power mode. If the bcm shows no communication it needs to get married to the pcm. Not sure that's his problem but it is a possiblity
#8
7th Gear
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I will check this with my mechanic and will let you guys know if it worked
but now I still have 3 codes coming back after resetting all
P0113C
P1111HC
P1432HC
My oil pressure is not working (gage)
My fuel gives me the qty of fuel I have but then it goes to empty after 2 minutes that the car has been started. (fuel gage)
than check gages light goes on
airbags lights on
check engine light on
#10
Just going to chime in real quick on the oil pressure gauge thing with what I've heard from speaking to a local vette mechanic. That is a pretty common issue with the c5's, mine also doesn't work. You have to pull the intake head to replace the sensor. It's a pretty expensive procedure, or you could do it yourself. But yeah, the sensor sits under the intake head somewhere... just replace it.
Last edited by Ghostwheel; 03-20-2018 at 12:02 PM.
#11
Tech Contributor
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Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Start hear and check the actual voltage on the coil power fuse/s. Its ignition switch supplied and the ignition switch has been known to be BAD producing a sub par output. Use a DC Volt meter and test the test slots on top of FUSE 16 & 22 to a good known chassis ground. Should see full battery voltage on both test slots when the ignition switch is ON. If the voltage is LOW it will effect coil performance.
#12
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Just going to chime in real quick on the oil pressure gauge thing with what I've heard from speaking to a local vette mechanic. That is a pretty common issue with the c5's, mine also doesn't work. You have to pull the intake head to replace the sensor. It's a pretty expensive procedure, or you could do it yourself. But yeah, the sensor sits under the intake head somewhere... just replace it.
#13
When the car acts up have him check each door to see if the power windows and locks work that year had issues with bad door wiring causing the door to pull ground from the computer ahuttomg down all the data lines if the one door has no power that's ur bad door