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Is my Ignition Switch Bad?? Help

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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 10:49 AM
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Default Is my Ignition Switch Bad?? Help

So I have been dealing with an issue on my 2002 Z06 where it shuts off after it warms up a bit. I discuss it more in depth in these threads

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-up-a-bit.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...arming-up.html

however it was suggested that my ignition switch could be an issue so I wanted to discuss my results on here since I feel its been discussed more often on this forum.

So I tested the ignition switch following Bill Curlee's procedure:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html

most voltages were the same as battery with exeption of fuse 16 and 13 in the engine bay fuse box and fuse 21 and 19 on the inboard fuse box. Those read slightly lower voltage, 11.89V instead of 11.93 at the battery. It is a very slight voltage drop so I am not sure if the ignition switch could be the issue.

I am at a loss at what could be causing the car to shut off and I already replaced the PCM so any help would be appreciated
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 12:40 PM
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Did I read that correctly? 11.93v at the battery? That could be a problem since a good battery is above 12.5v. Can you verify if battery is fully charged and load tested good?
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Cutlassmaster
Did I read that correctly? 11.93v at the battery? That could be a problem since a good battery is above 12.5v. Can you verify if battery is fully charged and load tested good?
Yeah I charged the battery prior to doing the test. 11.93 was with the key in the ignition and in the on position so maybe there is a voltage drop due to that? The test needs to be done in the on position otherwise it wont have voltage on those fuses.
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 03:28 PM
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Get a new battery
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 03:38 PM
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Are you using a digital multi-meter or the dash display?
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Cutlassmaster
Are you using a digital multi-meter or the dash display?
digital multi-meter. I had the battery tested and it came up good. Its an optima red-top.
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 04:35 PM
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I don't have an optima but my car throws fits for any volts under 12.3. So I wonder if it is still a battery issue?
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JLZ06TR
most voltages were the same as battery with exeption of fuse 16 and 13 in the engine bay fuse box and fuse 21 and 19 on the inboard fuse box. Those read slightly lower voltage, 11.89V instead of 11.93 at the battery. It is a very slight voltage drop so I am not sure if the ignition switch could be the issue.
Your battery has **** the bed. I don't care what the Vatozone monkey told you. A fully charged lead-acid battery (and yes, AGMs like the Optima are indeed still lead-acid batteries) should be reading at least 12.7v. These cars are very intolerant of a low voltage condition. And while you might have enough power to crank up the motor and boot up the ECM, everytime something powers up (e.g. headlights, HVAC fan, window motors) the system will see a voltage drop. And if you're already at the ragged edge of voltage tolerance with a shitty battery well ... you see where I'm going I'm sure.

Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 14, 2018 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JLZ06TR
digital multi-meter. I had the battery tested and it came up good. Its an optima red-top.
i had a red top brand new lasted 2 months never again..
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 04zjimc
i had a red top brand new lasted 2 months never again..
wow that sucks. I had better luck. Had mine since 2014 so ill try replacing it and see it that solves the issue.
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