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The oil pressure gauge hadn't been working in my 2000 MY Vette since I bought it, so I thought it would be a good time to get it fixed up as well as some much needed cleaning.
I got the intake pulled off in a little less than an hour. Not sure what the hub bub is about wanting to drill holes in the cowl to get to this sensor. It's not a hard job.
Once the intake was removed, I found a massive oil leak around the sensor. At least I hope that's where it was coming from. While in there, I am also replacing the passenger side check valve for the EVAP (preventative). I'll be putting in all new seals of course. I am going to remove the TB and bypass the coolant. The TB is in need of a good scrubbing as well. I am not going to touch the knock sensors. I did break two lines, one EVAP and one PVC, but it appears they are readily available. Let me know if I should address anything while I have it apart. The engine has 95K on the clock. The sensor was replaced previously based on the brass construction of the old sensor.
Here are a few before and after shots of my work.
Before
I removed the coil packs to get a good cleaning in.
Looks like you are doing a great job. Yes the intake is fairly easy to R&R and you get to clean things up real nice. Maybe some plugs and wires while you are in there? The wires are half off. LOL.
Is there a reason not to replace knock sensors while you have it apart? I have to replace my oil sender and was thinking of replacing them since i'd have the intake off.
Is there a reason not to replace knock sensors while you have it apart? I have to replace my oil sender and was thinking of replacing them since i'd have the intake off.
Well, good question. I haven't heard of the knock sensors being a huge issue, I didn't want to start poking around and ended up needing to take the top plate off in case the sensors wouldn't come out and lastly, I didn't want to spend another 100. Hopefully, it won't come back to bite me.
I am considering the o-rings. Still may do it. I thought about the relocation, but opt'd against it. Have you had any sensors fail since you did the mod?
I am considering the o-rings. Still may do it. I thought about the relocation, but opt'd against it. Have you had any sensors fail since you did the mod?
No, the Buick sensor seems to be a little more reliable than the C5 sensor.
Well, good question. I haven't heard of the knock sensors being a huge issue, I didn't want to start poking around and ended up needing to take the top plate off in case the sensors wouldn't come out and lastly, I didn't want to spend another 100. Hopefully, it won't come back to bite me.
I thought most of the time it was not so much the sensors as the wires get damaged when they get kinked which can be a problem with the clearance of the FAST intakes. A LS1 intake and basic attention to detail should not be a problem.
I would look at the valley cover real good also. I had to replace the gasket recently. When I did an oil change, I found oil on the oil pan and traced it to the valley pan gasket. It wasn't much of a leak since it only took 1/2 qt in 5k miles, but a little goes a long way.
I would look at the valley cover real good also. I had to replace the gasket recently. When I did an oil change, I found oil on the oil pan and traced it to the valley pan gasket. It wasn't much of a leak since it only took 1/2 qt in 5k miles, but a little goes a long way.
I had a ton of wet oil in the back of the engine, but it really looked like it was coming from the oil sensor. The valley cover had some oil crust on it, but nothing wet.
I had a ton of wet oil in the back of the engine, but it really looked like it was coming from the oil sensor. The valley cover had some oil crust on it, but nothing wet.
A leaking OPS is not a surprise on a C5. There are many stories of this here. Happened to me as well on my previous 99 but I caught it early enough to prevent a huge mess. But after replacing the stock, leaking sensor in the stock location I had two more fail in a row. Both were OEM brass sensors. So I relocated the OPS and used the Buick version as the 1/8" fittings made for fewer adapters. Not a single leak since the relocation a few years and many miles ago. When I bought my 03 this was one of the first things I did.
The parts I used. Prices have likely changed since this was done
You can save a bit if you're handy. Once you have the failed OP sender out you can break off the plastic top and pull out the electronics. Then you can tap the oil hole in the brass base of the old OPS to accept a 1/8" or 1/4" male SS braided flex hose that can be run to a location under the fuel rail covers.
There is also a Buick version of the Chevy brass OP sender that uses the same wiring connections but has 1/8" NPT brass nipple on it making it much easier to find connecting parts. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ps401
or for less you can get a lifetime warranty version from O'Riley's Auto Parts BWD - Oil Pressure Sender Part # S4201 $39.99 Each http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ensor!s!switch
I also used an Earl's Performance Speed-Flex SS brake line https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-64151518erl
and a Edelmann 203200 1/8-1/8 coupler https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-203200
to connect up the sensor to the SS line.
Total cost was about $57.00 for parts.
[QUOTE=93Polo;1596814192]I would replace the fuel injector o rings, especially if they have been comfortably resting in their OEM location for over a decade.
A remote oil pressure sending unit is a nice upgrade.
Something to consider---- when I did my ops it was recommended by Bill C that I put some high temp silicone around the knock sensors to keep oil and dirt from entering from around the seals..
Replace the pads under the Intake. They should cover the knock sensors to keep dirt out.
Last edited by mike venth; Mar 20, 2018 at 12:40 PM.
That's one way to fix a problem, if you like my sending unit hasn't worked, perhaps you might like to do mine also, since you have all this experience now.
Thanks, what time can I drop it by!
Just kidding.
Oil sender replace and cleaning
