Beat LS6 cam?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
Beat LS6 cam?
Best cam for 2003 Z06 for street and light performance driving events? Would like to use standard exhaust to avoid excess noise since it is a street car 95% of time. Would like 400-425 RWHP with dyno tune if possible but adequate torque to maintain reasonable street manners. Are my expectations reasonable? Open to all suggestions and in particular real world experience over time. Please be as specific as to exact equipment. All help appreciated.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Check out a Comp 224/230 on a 114+2 LSA
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 380
Likes: 67
From: Kelso Wa.
Check out a Comp 224/230 on a 114+2 LSA
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
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From: Pasco WA
A small cam will increase torque over a stock Z cam. I would suggest you get LT headers to optimize your new cam. You can be as quiet as stock, depending on which catback you choose. I suggest keeping your stock Ti catback, and getting a headers/catted midpipe combo that'll bolt right up to your catback, and retain almost all of the stock sound. (only better)
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
Check out a Comp 224/230 on a 114+2 LSA
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
The +2 means that it has 2 degrees of cam advance ground into the profile. You install it like normal and reap the benefit.
I have this cam in my C5z and love it. I've had probably 4 cams in this car and it's my favorite. Drives like stock, doesn't have crazy lope but doesn't sound stock either.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
Standard headers and titanium exhaust if possible. I have ridden in several Z06's with long tube and big bore exhaust and the associated drone is too much for me (at my age).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
A small cam will increase torque over a stock Z cam. I would suggest you get LT headers to optimize your new cam. You can be as quiet as stock, depending on which catback you choose. I suggest keeping your stock Ti catback, and getting a headers/catted midpipe combo that'll bolt right up to your catback, and retain almost all of the stock sound. (only better)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 987
Likes: 224
From: Motor City, MI
Lots of extra exhaust duration if you keep the factory manifolds. Your factory cam has an extra 14 degrees of exhaust duration.
You could also replace your factory manifolds with LS7 manifolds if quiet is your goal. There's usually some for sale in the C6 section. You'll need some custom work to the midpipe for fitment. That would add power and keep it quiet. I bet those manifolds a cold air and a tune could be worth 30+/- hp w/out opening up the motor.
You could also replace your factory manifolds with LS7 manifolds if quiet is your goal. There's usually some for sale in the C6 section. You'll need some custom work to the midpipe for fitment. That would add power and keep it quiet. I bet those manifolds a cold air and a tune could be worth 30+/- hp w/out opening up the motor.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,375
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That's the kind of thing that worries me about big cams... I want it to still be fun to drive 3 hours to the track.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 51
At 120 kms/h im at about 1200k. Yeah its smooth. In all honesty, you will be happy with almost any cam you get as long as its well tuned. Do you ever plan on going forced induction? The MS4 is spectacular with Nitrous and also very good if you plan on getting heads and staying NA. If I ever did it again, id go with either EnglandGreen or Ed Curtis. I was not happy with the service from TSP, but the cam is great!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 437
Likes: 39
From: PA
OP, there’s some good and bad info in here. As for a cam, it sounds like something in the 220’s intake duration range is probably going to be your best bet. Any more than that will begin to really sacrifice power and torque in the lower rpms just to move it to the upper rpms which I suspect you may not care for. Big cams are fun in the high rpms but when compared to a car with a smaller or medium sized cam they really leave a lot to be desired until they kick in at say 4,000 rpm. Been there done that.
Overlap determines the driveability so you may not want to go too crazy there (say +6 degrees at the most or so). A lot of the driveability is in the tune but a tune can only do so much depending on what you are working with.
There are many great options to choose from that should fit the bill well for you. I prefer Cam Motion, check out their Titan 3 and Titan 4 cams. I also suggest giving them a call and seeing what they think would be best for you.
As for exhaust, the drone comes from the mufflers. As long as you are running the factory Ti mufflers you will get no drone. I have LT headers, no cats, Ti exhaust with the bypass mod and a cam and have zero drone. It’s quiet when cruising on the highway. I would choose the brand of headers based upon ease of install, quality and your budget.
Overlap determines the driveability so you may not want to go too crazy there (say +6 degrees at the most or so). A lot of the driveability is in the tune but a tune can only do so much depending on what you are working with.
There are many great options to choose from that should fit the bill well for you. I prefer Cam Motion, check out their Titan 3 and Titan 4 cams. I also suggest giving them a call and seeing what they think would be best for you.
As for exhaust, the drone comes from the mufflers. As long as you are running the factory Ti mufflers you will get no drone. I have LT headers, no cats, Ti exhaust with the bypass mod and a cam and have zero drone. It’s quiet when cruising on the highway. I would choose the brand of headers based upon ease of install, quality and your budget.
Last edited by wrkdWS6; Mar 30, 2018 at 07:52 AM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 437
Likes: 39
From: PA
If you think your car sounds good now you should consider the Ti bypass. Makes them sound 10x better. One of the best things I did.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 437
Likes: 39
From: PA
At 120 kms/h im at about 1200k. Yeah its smooth. In all honesty, you will be happy with almost any cam you get as long as its well tuned. Do you ever plan on going forced induction? The MS4 is spectacular with Nitrous and also very good if you plan on getting heads and staying NA. If I ever did it again, id go with either EnglandGreen or Ed Curtis. I was not happy with the service from TSP, but the cam is great!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 18
Likes: 7
From: San Diego CA
I have 3 suggestions for you (in this order):
1) Tick Performance "SNS" torqueMAX Stage 1: 223/227 | .610"/.590" | LSA111+2
2) WS6store Hot Cam: 218/227 .600/.600 112+2 LSA
Considering your stock LS6 Cam specs; 207/217 @.50 .525/.525 lift 116 LSA (2002 – 2004) - If you don’t like the high lift of these first two (requiring new springs), I would go with:
3)Lingenfelter LS1-GT1 Cam specs 218/229@.050 .561/.561 lift 113 LSA.
Personally; I’m a sucker for high lift & moderate duration – I just LOVE torque
I have the mod that Time for a C-5 talked about: LS7 exh manifolds & Ti catback, CAI & a good tune.
Nice, quiet, stock-looking 400+RWHP
1) Tick Performance "SNS" torqueMAX Stage 1: 223/227 | .610"/.590" | LSA111+2
2) WS6store Hot Cam: 218/227 .600/.600 112+2 LSA
Considering your stock LS6 Cam specs; 207/217 @.50 .525/.525 lift 116 LSA (2002 – 2004) - If you don’t like the high lift of these first two (requiring new springs), I would go with:
3)Lingenfelter LS1-GT1 Cam specs 218/229@.050 .561/.561 lift 113 LSA.
Personally; I’m a sucker for high lift & moderate duration – I just LOVE torque
I have the mod that Time for a C-5 talked about: LS7 exh manifolds & Ti catback, CAI & a good tune.
Nice, quiet, stock-looking 400+RWHP
Last edited by R.c. Ness; Mar 30, 2018 at 08:34 AM.