Beat LS6 cam?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 18
Likes: 7
From: San Diego CA
Lots of extra exhaust duration if you keep the factory manifolds. Your factory cam has an extra 14 degrees of exhaust duration.
You could also replace your factory manifolds with LS7 manifolds if quiet is your goal. There's usually some for sale in the C6 section. You'll need some custom work to the midpipe for fitment. That would add power and keep it quiet. I bet those manifolds a cold air and a tune could be worth 30+/- hp w/out opening up the motor.
You could also replace your factory manifolds with LS7 manifolds if quiet is your goal. There's usually some for sale in the C6 section. You'll need some custom work to the midpipe for fitment. That would add power and keep it quiet. I bet those manifolds a cold air and a tune could be worth 30+/- hp w/out opening up the motor.
I did this mod: LS7 manifolds & cats into stock Ti catback. With only CAI and Tune – no other mods! – it gained very close to 30 HP. I cannot say “exact” – since I didn’t have the baseline on MY car, only other stock LS6.
You must use the LS7 cats and you will need a long 3” to 2.5” transition from the C6-front to C5-rear H-pipes. I used a Burns, which is longer/smoother than most. If I do it again, I would use have Burns make a true X-pipe with 3” inlet and 2.5” outlet, with the correct centerlines to connect the two.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
OP, there’s some good and bad info in here. As for a cam, it sounds like something in the 220’s intake duration range is probably going to be your best bet. Any more than that will begin to really sacrifice power and torque in the lower rpms just to move it to the upper rpms which I suspect you may not care for. Big cams are fun in the high rpms but when compared to a car with a smaller or medium sized cam they really leave a lot to be desired until they kick in at say 4,000 rpm. Been there done that.
Overlap determines the driveability so you may not want to go too crazy there (say +6 degrees at the most or so). A lot of the driveability is in the tune but a tune can only do so much depending on what you are working with.
There are many great options to choose from that should fit the bill well for you. I prefer Cam Motion, check out their Titan 3 and Titan 4 cams. I also suggest giving them a call and seeing what they think would be best for you.
As for exhaust, the drone comes from the mufflers. As long as you are running the factory Ti mufflers you will get no drone. I have LT headers, no cats, Ti exhaust with the bypass mod and a cam and have zero drone. It’s quiet when cruising on the highway. I would choose the brand of headers based upon ease of install, quality and your budget.
Overlap determines the driveability so you may not want to go too crazy there (say +6 degrees at the most or so). A lot of the driveability is in the tune but a tune can only do so much depending on what you are working with.
There are many great options to choose from that should fit the bill well for you. I prefer Cam Motion, check out their Titan 3 and Titan 4 cams. I also suggest giving them a call and seeing what they think would be best for you.
As for exhaust, the drone comes from the mufflers. As long as you are running the factory Ti mufflers you will get no drone. I have LT headers, no cats, Ti exhaust with the bypass mod and a cam and have zero drone. It’s quiet when cruising on the highway. I would choose the brand of headers based upon ease of install, quality and your budget.
Corsas or Ti mufflers are your best bet. If you want really mild C6Z manifolds are an option over LTs.Agreed on the Titan cams, a friend is running one, I have another CamMotion cam in my car. I have a 232/236 112+2 but I have a 3.73 gear, more compression and not as concerned about noise lope etc.
I would not go bigger on a stock shortblock unless I was only looking 1/4 mile numbers.
Google search the EPS 222/226 good power for a moderate cam, if not small cam by today's standards. Josh's suggestion of a 224/230 is in the ballpark as well. I would call EPS, CamMotion, Tick, Vengeance etc and have a conversation with your goals.
I have thought about picking up another C5 for a daily (still 6speed) and a setup that comes to mind is EPS 222/226, 243 heads, C6Z manifolds, and Z06 Tis, Corsas, or GHLs if I could find a set as they're out of production.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 437
Likes: 39
From: PA
Work is slow today thus I am super bored and I figured I'd share a dyno chart for educational purposes. I love to reference this because it really tells the story. This chart is of a Harley Davidson motorcycle specifically a 1200cc Sportster with two different cams, totally different vehicle yes, but same principle.
Completely ignore the blue line at first and let's just look at the red and green lines
The green line applies the "JH570" cams which are 240/250 duration cams and much smaller than the "I560" aka the red line which are 256/266 duration cams. The JH570 cams are designed for stock compression motors where the I560 cams are more appropriately used in motors with higher than stock compression and displacement. (**1200cc Harley Sportster motors like in this case run a lot of duration so subtract like 20 degrees of duration from each to make it more applicable to an LS1/LS6**)
Notice how the smaller cams in this case makes more power all the way throughout the rpm range until 6,500rpm. At that point, the larger cams begin to exert themselves. So it's all give and take. Some people want more useable power throughout the rpm band while others don't care about that and want the biggest top-end rush they can get despite it being in a more narrow window. Just depends on the user.
Now, let's finally look at that blue line. That's when additional compression and displacement are added to the larger I560 cams. That's when you reap the benefits of the larger cam without all the drawbacks. Displacement and compression absorb duration. Steeper gearing also helps.
FWIW, I used this chart when deciding between both of these exact cams for my Sportster. Despite the initial draw to the higher dyno number I chose the smaller JH570 cams and glad I did because they make more average hp/tq and are more appropriate given my uses of vehicle and the rpm range I ride in.
Something to note, factory LS6 heads stop breathing at a certain point. You begin to notice the law of diminishing returns when going with too large of a cam. I've seen it over and over where say the same car with a 228/232 or similar cam put down 20 more rwhp and rwtq in the rpm window most drive vs. say a 238/232 or similar cam and then up top the 238/242 or similar cam only put down 5-10rwhp more. Now give that big cam some ported heads, more compression, more displacement, etc. and it's gonna fly because the potential has been unlocked. To each their own, just depends on the application and user. No right or wrong and that's why there is no such thing as the "best" cam. The best cam is dependent on each individual.
Completely ignore the blue line at first and let's just look at the red and green lines
The green line applies the "JH570" cams which are 240/250 duration cams and much smaller than the "I560" aka the red line which are 256/266 duration cams. The JH570 cams are designed for stock compression motors where the I560 cams are more appropriately used in motors with higher than stock compression and displacement. (**1200cc Harley Sportster motors like in this case run a lot of duration so subtract like 20 degrees of duration from each to make it more applicable to an LS1/LS6**)
Notice how the smaller cams in this case makes more power all the way throughout the rpm range until 6,500rpm. At that point, the larger cams begin to exert themselves. So it's all give and take. Some people want more useable power throughout the rpm band while others don't care about that and want the biggest top-end rush they can get despite it being in a more narrow window. Just depends on the user.
Now, let's finally look at that blue line. That's when additional compression and displacement are added to the larger I560 cams. That's when you reap the benefits of the larger cam without all the drawbacks. Displacement and compression absorb duration. Steeper gearing also helps.
FWIW, I used this chart when deciding between both of these exact cams for my Sportster. Despite the initial draw to the higher dyno number I chose the smaller JH570 cams and glad I did because they make more average hp/tq and are more appropriate given my uses of vehicle and the rpm range I ride in.
Something to note, factory LS6 heads stop breathing at a certain point. You begin to notice the law of diminishing returns when going with too large of a cam. I've seen it over and over where say the same car with a 228/232 or similar cam put down 20 more rwhp and rwtq in the rpm window most drive vs. say a 238/232 or similar cam and then up top the 238/242 or similar cam only put down 5-10rwhp more. Now give that big cam some ported heads, more compression, more displacement, etc. and it's gonna fly because the potential has been unlocked. To each their own, just depends on the application and user. No right or wrong and that's why there is no such thing as the "best" cam. The best cam is dependent on each individual.
Last edited by wrkdWS6; Mar 30, 2018 at 11:37 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
Work is slow today thus I am super bored and I figured I'd share a dyno chart for educational purposes. I love to reference this because it really tells the story. This chart is of a Harley Davidson motorcycle specifically a 1200cc Sportster with two different cams, totally different vehicle yes, but same principle.
Completely ignore the blue line at first and let's just look at the red and green lines
The green line applies the "JH570" cams which are 240/250 duration cams and much smaller than the "I560" aka the red line which are 256/266 duration cams. The JH570 cams are designed for stock compression motors where the I560 cams are more appropriately used in motors with higher than stock compression and displacement. (**1200cc Harley Sportster motors like in this case run a lot of duration so subtract like 20 degrees of duration from each to make it more applicable to an LS1/LS6**)
Notice how the smaller cams in this case makes more power all the way throughout the rpm range until 6,500rpm. At that point, the larger cams begin to exert themselves. So it's all give and take. Some people want more useable power throughout the rpm band while others don't care about that and want the biggest top-end rush they can get despite it being in a more narrow window. Just depends on the user.
Now, let's finally look at that blue line. That's when additional compression and displacement are added to the larger I560 cams. That's when you reap the benefits of the larger cam without all the drawbacks. Displacement and compression absorb duration. Steeper gearing also helps.
FWIW, I used this chart when deciding between both of these exact cams for my Sportster. Despite the initial draw to the higher dyno number I chose the smaller JH570 cams and glad I did because they make more average hp/tq and are more appropriate given my uses of vehicle and the rpm range I ride in.
Something to note, factory LS6 heads stop breathing at a certain point. You begin to notice the law of diminishing returns when going with too large of a cam. I've seen it over and over where say the same car with a 228/232 or similar cam put down 20 more rwhp and rwtq in the rpm window most drive vs. say a 238/232 or similar cam and then up top the 238/242 or similar cam only put down 5-10rwhp more. Now give that big cam some ported heads, more compression, more displacement, etc. and it's gonna fly because the potential has been unlocked. To each their own, just depends on the application and user. No right or wrong and that's why there is no such thing as the "best" cam. The best cam is dependent on each individual.
Completely ignore the blue line at first and let's just look at the red and green lines
The green line applies the "JH570" cams which are 240/250 duration cams and much smaller than the "I560" aka the red line which are 256/266 duration cams. The JH570 cams are designed for stock compression motors where the I560 cams are more appropriately used in motors with higher than stock compression and displacement. (**1200cc Harley Sportster motors like in this case run a lot of duration so subtract like 20 degrees of duration from each to make it more applicable to an LS1/LS6**)
Notice how the smaller cams in this case makes more power all the way throughout the rpm range until 6,500rpm. At that point, the larger cams begin to exert themselves. So it's all give and take. Some people want more useable power throughout the rpm band while others don't care about that and want the biggest top-end rush they can get despite it being in a more narrow window. Just depends on the user.
Now, let's finally look at that blue line. That's when additional compression and displacement are added to the larger I560 cams. That's when you reap the benefits of the larger cam without all the drawbacks. Displacement and compression absorb duration. Steeper gearing also helps.
FWIW, I used this chart when deciding between both of these exact cams for my Sportster. Despite the initial draw to the higher dyno number I chose the smaller JH570 cams and glad I did because they make more average hp/tq and are more appropriate given my uses of vehicle and the rpm range I ride in.
Something to note, factory LS6 heads stop breathing at a certain point. You begin to notice the law of diminishing returns when going with too large of a cam. I've seen it over and over where say the same car with a 228/232 or similar cam put down 20 more rwhp and rwtq in the rpm window most drive vs. say a 238/232 or similar cam and then up top the 238/242 or similar cam only put down 5-10rwhp more. Now give that big cam some ported heads, more compression, more displacement, etc. and it's gonna fly because the potential has been unlocked. To each their own, just depends on the application and user. No right or wrong and that's why there is no such thing as the "best" cam. The best cam is dependent on each individual.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
The brand of LTs makes no difference in the final sound equation. I prefer quality SS headers like ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works, LG (though they may not be the same quality as I bought 14 years ago), but some guys are very happy with the SS from eBay, etc. The mid-pipe contains the cats (if ordered that way) and the catless ones are available too. The presence of cats/no cats (off road) and X pipe do affect sound, but only a little volume. That Billy Boat is one of the loudest catbacks on the market, so just about anything is quieter. Using the stock C5 catback may work in the short term, but they are more restrictive than the Ti, and IMO very ugly. Although I love my Corsa Pace Car with the distinctive twin oval tips, sometimes I wish I hadn't sold my original catback for more mod money.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
Last edited by zeevette; Mar 30, 2018 at 02:29 PM.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 104
Likes: 21
From: Baton Rouge Lousianna
Best cam for 2003 Z06 for street and light performance driving events? Would like to use standard exhaust to avoid excess noise since it is a street car 95% of time. Would like 400-425 RWHP with dyno tune if possible but adequate torque to maintain reasonable street manners. Are my expectations reasonable? Open to all suggestions and in particular real world experience over time. Please be as specific as to exact equipment. All help appreciated.
Your desired power output is somewhat at odds with your desired drivability characteristics. Here are a couple examples.
Our "no sacrifice" mild performance upgrade camshaft for LS1/LS6 engines is our Stage 3 LS1 Mild Performance camshaft:
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/m...-218-224-16-3/
The Stage 3 Mild Performance Cam is 218/224 on 116+3 with .550" valve lift. This camshaft will drive and sound like stock, but provide a power increase across the board. It is no dyno hero camshaft for sure, but it will not irritate you either. expect a 15-20 HP gain and an extended RPM range.
One of my favorite cams for your criteria is our Titan 3 LS1 camshaft:
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/t...224-228-113-4/
The Titan 3 LS1 camshaft will have a very mild idle sound once warmed up, but may have a lightly detectable lope when cold. This camshaft makes great power and has excellent drivability, but is definitely a performance camshaft. Expect gains of 30-35 HP. This camshaft uses either our performance beehive valve spring or one of our dual valve spring kits.
It just depends on what you want. And, like always, I am glad to make a custom camshaft for something in-between at no extra charge.
Last edited by cammotion perf; Apr 2, 2018 at 11:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
The brand of LTs makes no difference in the final sound equation. I prefer quality SS headers like ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works, LG (though they may not be the same quality as I bought 14 years ago), but some guys are very happy with the SS from eBay, etc. The mid-pipe contains the cats (if ordered that way) and the catless ones are available too. The presence of cats/no cats (off road) and X pipe do affect sound, but only a little volume. That Billy Boat is one of the loudest catbacks on the market, so just about anything is quieter. Using the stock C5 catback may work in the short term, but they are more restrictive than the Ti, and IMO very ugly. Although I love my Corsa Pace Car with the distinctive twin oval tips, sometimes I wish I hadn't sold my original catback for more mod money.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 51
The brand of LTs makes no difference in the final sound equation. I prefer quality SS headers like ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works, LG (though they may not be the same quality as I bought 14 years ago), but some guys are very happy with the SS from eBay, etc. The mid-pipe contains the cats (if ordered that way) and the catless ones are available too. The presence of cats/no cats (off road) and X pipe do affect sound, but only a little volume. That Billy Boat is one of the loudest catbacks on the market, so just about anything is quieter. Using the stock C5 catback may work in the short term, but they are more restrictive than the Ti, and IMO very ugly. Although I love my Corsa Pace Car with the distinctive twin oval tips, sometimes I wish I hadn't sold my original catback for more mod money.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
I got lucky with my first cam, a Crane 228-232 @112 and .600 lift. It had a nice lope, but was perfectly drivable after a tune. Produced 483/432 SAE when it was NA, and had power everywhere. I really wish I'd quit at that point.
What were your other mods?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
I'm going to call it "BS"; before supercharger. I bought a used FAST90 and ported it myself. I also used to have a Meziere EWP and an underdrive pulley. I used Racetronics piezo #36 injectors with a stock rail. Of course, I also still have the TF 215s (60cc) hand blended and Harland Sharp RR. When I installed my A&A 'charger kit, I also changed to a blower cam, and de-modded the EWP/UDP/FAST for stock parts. (except for a Powerbond standard drive pulley) Now I have way more power than the car can put down, I'm 10 years older, and 2 more back surgeries, so I no longer can do my own mods, which was the whole point. I never have raced the car, but have run through the gears a couple of times. Some people don't understand why I would do all those mods, but never race, but that's just the way it is. Someday I will sell some lucky person a pristine, low mile Z with lots of free mods, but not today.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi
I'm going to call it "BS"; before supercharger. I bought a used FAST90 and ported it myself. I also used to have a Meziere EWP and an underdrive pulley. I used Racetronics piezo #36 injectors with a stock rail. Of course, I also still have the TF 215s (60cc) hand blended and Harland Sharp RR. When I installed my A&A 'charger kit, I also changed to a blower cam, and de-modded the EWP/UDP/FAST for stock parts. (except for a Powerbond standard drive pulley) Now I have way more power than the car can put down, I'm 10 years older, and 2 more back surgeries, so I no longer can do my own mods, which was the whole point. I never have raced the car, but have run through the gears a couple of times. Some people don't understand why I would do all those mods, but never race, but that's just the way it is. Someday I will sell some lucky person a pristine, low mile Z with lots of free mods, but not today.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 987
Likes: 224
From: Motor City, MI
OP, before you pick the cam you need to commit to your exhaust set up. When I was cam shopping I was also thinking about keeping my stock manifolds and EPS recommended their 214/232 cam. The extra exhaust duration is needed to compensate for the restricted factory exhaust.
BTW, I have one of the smaller cams mentioned previously (222/226) and I like it. Great drive-ability and it pulls all the way to the 6,800 rev limiter.
BTW, I have one of the smaller cams mentioned previously (222/226) and I like it. Great drive-ability and it pulls all the way to the 6,800 rev limiter.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 121
Likes: 29
From: Madison Mississippi