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Hydraulic clutch problem

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Old 03-30-2018, 10:52 AM
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Hal-2
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Default Hydraulic clutch problem

Hello- this is my first time on this forum. I recently took my 2000 c5 out of storage. Upon starting it the clutch did not seem to dis engage and it then stuck to the floor. I had to physically pull the clutch up with my hand. The car stalled so I restarted it and the car lunged forward as it turned over. I replaced the fluid in master cylinder. Restarted car with clutch in and allowed it to warm up. After about 15 seconds the clutch seems to engage on its own without me releasing it. Has anyone experienced this problem? Or have suggestions? Many thanks. Hal-2
Old 03-30-2018, 11:02 AM
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Without being able to look at your car, my first impression is your master cylinder is shot. If you can do the work yourself, it will cost you $100 if you go with a stock replacement. It isn't a bad job.

Check to make sure you aren't dripping fluid from the area just behind the engine. If you are dripping fluid there, your slave cylinder is likely bad. Start with the least costly option first
Old 03-30-2018, 11:10 AM
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Hal-2
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Thanks very much. I have been doing some research and it appears that this may be the case. I don’t have the facilities to do this myself so I am putting myself at the mercy of a dealership. I was hoping it was just air in the line but even bleeding it seems like an intimidating task. Thanks for your response.
Old 03-30-2018, 12:33 PM
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If you have a floor jack, that is all the facilities you need.
Old 03-30-2018, 12:59 PM
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001pewter
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Originally Posted by Hal-2
Thanks very much. I have been doing some research and it appears that this may be the case. I don’t have the facilities to do this myself so I am putting myself at the mercy of a dealership. I was hoping it was just air in the line but even bleeding it seems like an intimidating task. Thanks for your response.
Just a jack a few tools and some patience. Not a hard job, just take the tire off. Getting the line apart was the hardest for me. It's a quick disconnect type and I used a piece of a old bycicle fork and it came right apart.
Old 03-30-2018, 04:46 PM
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OleStraightStick
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I think mine is on it’s last leg.. might wanna consider the Tick Performance master cylinder.. that’s what I’ll most likely eventually install in mine.. it’s right at $300, and is a slightly more complicated install, but seems to be what many prefer.. no restrictive lines so fluid flows at a faster rate, and it’s adjustable
Old 03-30-2018, 08:23 PM
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Hal-2
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I have done a bit of reading on that. It does sound like the way to go. Thanks for your input!
Old 03-31-2018, 12:12 AM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
Old 03-31-2018, 11:24 AM
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Gordy M
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Quite often it is the Master Cylinder that is the culprit, if not it is the Slave Cylinder (throw out bearing). With a stock engine, the C5 MC would be the way to go, if you have head/cam then the Tick MC would be the better option. If you are stock and have no desire to add H/C to the Corvette then Stock MC is the easiest way to go.

If the Slave is leaking then have several friends to help you or go to a shop experienced in Corvette clutch replacement. There are numerous threads on DIY clutch replacement--if you are going to replace the slave you might as well replace everything at the same time.
Old 03-31-2018, 12:01 PM
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Hal-2
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Thanks for the in put. It all seems to point to the master cylinder. I flushed the clutch fluid using the multi pump clutch method. The fluid finally ended up clear. However I still have the original problem. I have an appointment with the dealer for Monday morning to have it trouble shot. I really appreciate all the responses I have had on this issue. Thanks to all. So nice to have a forum like this.
Old 03-31-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OleStraightStick
I think mine is on it’s last leg.. might wanna consider the Tick Performance master cylinder.. that’s what I’ll most likely eventually install in mine.. it’s right at $300, and is a slightly more complicated install, but seems to be what many prefer.. no restrictive lines so fluid flows at a faster rate, and it’s adjustable
One thing to note is the effort required to depress the pedal increases with the TICK MC. I don't mind the trade off but others who drove my car before and after give the new feel mixed reviews.
Old 03-31-2018, 05:17 PM
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Hal-2
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I don’t think the extra tension would bother me. I am going to ask about it when I take the car in on Monday morning. Thanks and cheers!
Old 03-31-2018, 09:03 PM
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I just repaired this problem on my own and the worst part of it for me was removing the roll pin. I had about 2 seconds of clutch before it bled down with no fluid loss. Tear down exposed globs of clutch dust, pitted cylinder and blown front cup. Now I know to change the fluid but it lasted 18 years so can't complain about that. 157k miles.
Old 04-01-2018, 06:00 AM
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Hal-2
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Mine is just under 100 km. The clutch fluid was pretty dark. The first thing I did was to flush the fluid but no luck. At least I can speak with the service dept with a little bit of knowledge behind me. I just bought the vehicle last Aug. it seemed great but when I look back I can remember a few occasions where it would grind a very slight amount when going into reverse. I thought it might be just me not being diligent with the clutch. Put it up in November and it was great. Just sitting there must have deteriorated. I’ll take it in tomorrow. Thanks to all!
Old 04-02-2018, 03:53 PM
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It's the years not the miles.
Old 04-02-2018, 05:43 PM
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An update to my original thread: the dealership found the slave cylinder to be leaking. They strongly suggested that the clutch plate be replaced so I bit the bullet. Once the tranny is lowered the clutch plate is right there so it made sense. I don’t plan on getting rid of the car any time soon so it’s a little piece of mind. Once again thanks to all who offered their input to this problem.

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