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We use a line wrench on the power steering hoses. As you said you don't want to round them off. You could use a crowfoot.
Also use gloves around the power steering cooler. I had a friend who owned a shop do an optispark on my C4 when I lived in an apartment. He slipped and sliced his hand on the cooler needing stitches. Power steering fluid is one of slickest substances known to man.
I would, Remove wires from the starter one post at a time, taking pictures after each post is disconnected. Zip tie wires going to the same post together. You don't want to wire them wrong, BTDT.
Originally Posted by Walt G
I just replaced my HB this past weekend. A couple of things I would add to this very good procedure:
1. If you have a manual trans car, no need for a crankshaft flywheel holder... just put it in 6th gear and pull the hand brake. The clutch can hold 400+ ft-lbs, and the bolt doesn't take that much to turn. If you've got an auto, you need the holder tool (or some sort of 'wrap the belt' trick).
2. I ended up using the Proform 66519 Harmonic Balancer installation tool for $44 (Summit). I was super impressed with that tool. It's got a really long 'nut' that is used to drive on the damper, so it's not likely to strip out anytime soon, and it's got a nice thrust bearing too. For $44, I was pretty impressed with the quality of that tool. Since a tool like this threads all the way into the crank first, then uses the exposed end to do the 'driving in', there is no chance of damaging the threads in your crank, which is nice.
Note: I was also replacing my radiator, so I had that out when I did the harmonic balancer. The OP mentioned he couldn't find an installation tool that works... maybe that's why it worked for me. With the radiator already out, I had lots of room.
Also, I planned on dropping my oil pan too so I could put a new timing belt on. I figured I could drop the steering rack still attached to the front cradle (cradle needs to come all the way out to get the oil pan out), but it didn't work. There is a brake line between the cradle and steering rack that blocks the rack from coming straight down. Maybe that will help someone else who has the same 'clever' idea as me.
Agreed on the Balancer install tool. They do make life easier if they have a bearing on the end rather than just a washer, but you can do it as listed above. We also use a LS1 Flywheel/Flexplate holder locking tool for the crank stop. Google will show a few options, I believe mine is the speed 2800 version. We don't lower the subframe to get the rack out. We move it to the passenger side then up and out the drive side. A second person helps with making sure the tie rods don't snag on anything
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Originally Posted by classylady
Thank you for the great info. It is definitely the harmonic balancer and my water pump is leaking. What brand harmonic balancer would you recommend?
Dayco if it is mostly stock. If you are going for more mods, cam, heads, etc ATI.
If you pull the front cover to look at anything, replace the oil pump, timing chain etc. I very much recommend the SAC City front cover alignment tool. You don't want to do this twice.
ok thanks for the info ! just did this. also did the oil pressure remote mount set up. all i can add if you remove the radiator use the proper transmission line disconnect tool. i changed out the radiator it was plugged on the outside. also changed all the belts pulleys and tensioners. and hoses.
I am changing the damper on my 98 coupe right now and would like to share my experience so far with a little text and photos.
The subframe bolts, I used a breaker bar to push it down, seems like the spring is keeping/pushing the subframe up so no worries it will not drop down.
View from the other side, my '98 only called for loosening the pressure lines and the electrical connector no brakeline stuff.
The rear driver side bolt.
TIP: All of the four 15 mm bolts on the composite spring needed tensioning, they were a little loose so check yours.
Steering out, I discovered it was a remanufactured rack (89K miles on car) and it came out quite easy.
Total separation!
I had to drop exhaust to get to the starter bolts, then I just pushed the starter forwards/tilted and there seem to be room for the flexplate lock but I will know tomorrow when parts and tools arrive.
Still a little confused on what measure I should take with the caliper, I understand we want same offset so that belts line up but any figures or images?
Shops will quote you 5 hours labor. Excluding parts, shops should charge you about $500 or so do do the job. Lowest by me was 485 and the highest was 600.
Last edited by Chillo32; Nov 17, 2019 at 11:24 PM.
Shops will quote you 5 hours labor. Excluding parts, shops should charge you about $500 or so do do the job. Lowest by me was 485 and the highest was 600.
Wow really? Mine is leaking bad, a shop quoted me $1750 to do this (including the part, but this is way high). Maybe I should try another shop. I need a new front seal, so replacing the balancer is good to do at the same time.
Wow really? Mine is leaking bad, a shop quoted me $1750 to do this (including the part, but this is way high). Maybe I should try another shop. I need a new front seal, so replacing the balancer is good to do at the same time.
thar is really high. Power bond balancer and front seal is about $300. Another 5-6 in labor and steering fluid. You should be right at $1k.
It's a PIA to do without a lift and took me quite a while. I never had to remove the exhaust to lock the starter and almost dropped a nut getting 245 ft pounds without a pipe extender.
I still have the flywheel lock tool and the HB puller, I hope not to use them again but, maybe one day I will sell it
Anyone done this on a Quickjack? Enough clearance to get to everything comfortably? List of other things to do while you are there? Thinking belts, hoses, idler just due to age and a good opportunity to flush the Dexcool before it turns to Jello. Is it worth it to upgrade to a SFI balancer for a mostly stock motor?
Anyone done this on a Quickjack? Enough clearance to get to everything comfortably? List of other things to do while you are there? Thinking belts, hoses, idler just due to age and a good opportunity to flush the Dexcool before it turns to Jello. Is it worth it to upgrade to a SFI balancer for a mostly stock motor?
I did mine on the four post lift but I do have a QuickJack as well and I think it should be fine. Apart from the damper itself the torques are not bad, you could do this laying on a creeper or not. Personally I bought what most people call "the good" OEM damper, forgot the brand.
Original poster said at the end of his excellent write up "no more wobble"
I replaced mine because of an oil leak which was caused by the seal where it ate into the balancer hub. The G.M. replacement one has a wobble to it where the old one didn't. Warranty Yes, time and will to re-replace it No
2 years and 5000 miles later in going back in
Single post lift here and this time I am going to look at removing the steering gear with the "slide to the passenger side and up method" did he have to remove the EBTCM? for clearance?
Thank you for the great info. It is definitely the harmonic balancer and my water pump is leaking. What brand harmonic balancer would you recommend?
