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I know my limitations and giving it a go is probably beyond them. I've tried doing some stuff on the car, and it always takes me way longer than it should, mostly because I'm nervous that I'll do more damage than good.
This might be worth spending some cash so a professional does it right.
Now that you mentioned you have headers, the possibility of having bad contacts at the starter solenoid becomes very likely because of the inherent extra heat.
I understand that perhaps you think this is beyond your skills, but just jack it up or use ramps if you have them, and take a look... then make a decision according to what you see
Now that you mentioned you have headers, the possibility of having bad contacts at the starter solenoid becomes very likely because of the inherent extra heat.
I understand that perhaps you think this is beyond your skills, but just jack it up or use ramps if you have them, and take a look... then make a decision according to what you see
For the sake of argument, let's say I don't chicken out. Is there anything I can do to avoid the extra heat issue? Am I going to have to unbolt the headers to get to the solenoid contacts?
That grease/oil didn't appear to be dielectric. It looked like splashed oil and dirt. I applied dielectric after I cleaned them.
Ah, good work! See, you're better at this than you thought! My headers are Kooks as well. Believe it or not it was actually pretty easy to get it undone and out of the way. I didn't pull it completely out, but it acted like it would drop right out the bottom if I wanted it to.
Originally Posted by Jeffislouie
For the sake of argument, let's say I don't chicken out. Is there anything I can do to avoid the extra heat issue? Am I going to have to unbolt the headers to get to the solenoid contacts?
You could wrap the headers, but that would require them both to be out. You could also shield the wires with heat sleeve. That will require some room to work and you'll most likely find it easiest with the header out of the way. As for removing them...
Remove plug wires from plugs.
This could be challenging depending on how long they've been on. You may end up needing plugs and wires.
Remove spark plugs.
Loosen clamp that connects header to X pipe.
Remove header bolts.
I removed that little plastic shield that goes around the battery as well. I took it out because of the battery and wiring stuff I was doing, but I bet having it out makes for quite a bit more room.
Last edited by oneandgone; Apr 14, 2018 at 07:31 PM.
Something to keep in mind is that you can basically add grounds anywhere you please. Like if I thought my battery -> engine block was poor, I could simply add another one to another spot on the engine block where I knew it was good. You can go from battery - negative terminal to almost any bare metal in the chassis to "improve" upon grounding. The chassis connects to the engine through engine mount bolts; thus the starter is grounded to the engine, through the engine block, to the chassis, to the battery.
Another example, my negative battery terminal is in the trunk where my battery is. So it grounds to the spare tire well. yet the starter has no trouble cranking over by using the chassis as a huge cable to the get to the actual cable in the trunk.
Last edited by Kingtal0n; Apr 15, 2018 at 06:08 PM.
