I know, I've searched. I'm having charge system fault and throwing the occasional code related to it.
sometimes the Vette starts right up, other times it takes multiple tries. I get the guage sweep, turn the key, and nothing. Dead .
Twist. Twist. Twist. (Sometimes over and over).
Eventually, it fires and everything runs fine.
I've watched Froggy's video and read Bill Curlee's postpost have located the likely problem grounds, but I can't get the ground off because I can't grab the nut. So while I am extremely thankful for their wisdom, I'm lost and not a mechanic .
The info I've found is awesome and I want to diy. The problem is no one says what size the nut is or shows HOW to remove the nut so I can take apart the black box, fix any corrosion, fix any corrosion on the actual ground and reattach. It's always "here is the ground. Here is the ground removed. Here is the cleaned stuff. Here it is reattached."
That stuff is great, but worthless because I don't know what I need to get the ground wire and black box off the frame.
I have some small wrenches, but there isn't clearance. I'd wager I need a deeper socket, but I don't want to buy the wrong size and go back to the store over and over.
Can anyone help?

 

A 10mm socket, extension, and a ratchet should do it. Lefty loosie. The connector takes a little finesse to get apart, it just snaps together. The tabs need worked gently to get them to let go. A small flat screwdriver should help. Take your time and be gentle and patient and you'll get it. Good luck!

 

I tried that, but the long pin hits the back of the socket and it won't grip. Do I just need to buy a deep socket?

Thanks!

 

Yes, a deep socket will provide additional clearance.

 

You should just cut the wires and solder them to a washer or 2.

The connectors are problematic.

I cut the ones on the engine compartment frame rails
off.

They were starting to turn green when the car had only 20k miles.

 

 

No
A ground is a ground.
I did mine almost 5 years ago.
Soldering to washers is better.
The engineers outsmarted themselves
with these prone to corrode connectors.
I put grease on the new washers
and have no corrosion.

 

I managed to get the two by the lights taken apart and they were basically perfect. The one on the passenger side had some oil/grease on and under it, so I cleaned that up.

Things seemed okay when I started it up first try this morning, and again after a long drive and an hour in court

Drove it to the next court with no problems and was inside for fifteen minutes. Came out and back to intermittent starting. Drove to Costco for a quick pickup and more nothing when I turned the key for a few minutes.

Dic showed voltage of 13.4 to 13.8 on the way home. I dropped off the Costco hail and the car started right up again, dic showing 13.8. I went to the office, did my job, and when I went to go home, back to intermittent starting issue - turn the key, everything dies .Charge system fault. PCM 1638h.
I get it started and start driving home. Dic shows 12, then 11.7, then 11.3 for a while.
Floor it a few times on the way home thinking I'm in for an expensive repair. After going over some railroad tracks on the way, dic shows 13.6 all of a sudden and was 13.9 for the remaining 15 minute drive home.

Something must be loose. Maybe the connectors at the starter motor? I'm confused and don't want to drive the car until I fix this. I usually have two to three court appearances a day, plus a stop home and office work. I can't be stranded.

Anyone have a direction they can point me in or am I going to have to find a Vette guy to inspect the electrical system?

 

Ignore the DIC and volt meter the battery and alternator. See if your getting 14.6 on the meter.

My DIC was all wonky same way until I found one fusible link from alternator to starter was corroded and I had to replace it. When I did the volt meter my alternator was 14.6 and at the battery was 14.6 DIC would say 12, 11, over charge, 14, 12. Replaced the link and now its a stable 14.5 on DIC.

I got all this info from help from here.

 

I'm less concerned about what the dic says than the weird no start condition I get from time to time. The dic isn't the issue. I've tested with a multimeter and the dic is a bit off.
The issue is that sometimes the dic shows 13's to 14.1 and I don't have an issue starting the car, but other times I twist the key and everything stops working (I get one click, but everything else goes dead).
I thought it was a ground issue, but because everything looks good, I'm concerned it is a loose connection somewhere else that is sending a signal that I have a charge system fault.
I check the battery with the car not running and get 12's and with the car running, 14.1.
But when I was driving, the dic all of a sudden was in the low 11's until I hit a good bump and it shot up immediately to 13.6 or so .
I just don't know where that loose connection might even be! Where specifically was yours? Id like to see if that's my issue too!
Thank you for the suggestion though. I appreciate it.

 

Ignition switches are a known problem. Just throwing that out there.

 

Last time I pulled apart what seemed like the entire interior just to get access to the HVAC panel (great design, GM - jerks), I tried taking the ingition out and couldn't get it to budge. Any tips for getting that thing out without destroying it?

 

Gonna guess your car has the A4 trans. To get the cable out of the back of the switch the car has to be in neutral if I remember right

 

I wish it was a manual....

 

Have you checked the alternator-starter-battery connection path?

Go to the starter solenoid and check the main connection for burnt, corroded or loose wires. That is where the starter, alternator and battery connect together and it is often the cause of charging issues.

 

I agree with that. ^^^ Mine was loose, but hadn't caused a problem. I just kind of stumbled onto it by chance. Had I not I would have had problems at some point I'm sure. There is a ground from engine to chassis in that same area as well.

 

This seems like a dumb question:
Is that by the starter?
Iirc, that requires either jacking the car or using a lift, taking off the wheel, a shroud, and a bracket.

If that's the case, I'm going to need to take it to a shop - that's too much for me to tackle....

If I'm wrong, please please please correct me.

 

The starter itself, and the wiring, you should be able to get to ok simply tighten by just jacking the car up. Even with headers I could do that. I have headers and had to remove the passenger side header to gain good access to the ground above the starter. My reason for getting to the ground was to remove it. It was being replaced by one in a different area due to a battery relocation.

Not sure if you can get to either from the top or not with stock exhaust. Someone else will know though.

Those grounds behind the headlights...The grease could have been dielectric grease that's used on electrical connections. Probably not a bad idea to get some and put on the terminals and the grounds. I did that on mine after cleaning up all of the terminals and contact points. It seems to have cured an intermittent wheel speed sensor code that typically popped up after a wash.

 

Yes, the starter solenoid is physically attached to the starter. As you can see in this picture, it is the cylinder-like device on its side, where the electrical connections are made:


This is a view from below, passenger's side:


This is another angle:


And another one:


Give it a try!

 

Thanks.
I have kooks headers and a BB exhaust.

That grease/oil didn't appear to be dielectric. It looked like splashed oil and dirt. I applied dielectric after I cleaned them.