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Hey Guys, my motor rebuild project continues to nickel and dime me as I work my way back to the land of the running. I have a supercharged 01 and have a stock crank damper that has been pinned to the crank.
While inspecting my stock balancer thoroughly today I noticed there is some splitting in the rubber. In lieu of this pulled the trigger on a summit balancer, part sum-c2501.
My question is since I've already have drilled my crank previously for the stock balancer pinning. Can I reuse my existing pin and drilled slot on the crank snout with the new balancer key way slot? I would toss some rtv high temp gasket in there as well.
If that doesn't work, should I pin the new damper on the opposite side? Ideally I don't want to have to tap my crank again but will if I have to. Thanks.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
you can try to use the same hole first but the bit will try to walk since there is already a partial hole there, if that happens it will waller out the area already drilled out in the crank and the pin will be loose... if you can't get it to drill out straight then just drill a new hole opposite of the old one
or you can find a junk crank for cheap. press your new balancer on and drill it. pull it off and reinstall it on your good crank. just make sure it’s lined up when you press it on your good crank
That’s one reason I never liked end pinning the crank. Personally, I would get and ATI damper and use their pinning kit. I also wouldn’t use RTV anywhere in the assembly. A correctly installed ARP bolt and damper shouldn’t need sealer of any type.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by HPS MASTER TECH
or you can find a junk crank for cheap. press your new balancer on and drill it. pull it off and reinstall it on your good crank. just make sure it’s lined up when you press it on your good crank
Given I just had this crank polished, bearing clearances set and rotating assembly balanced going through that again is not an option. I ordered the ati crank pin kit am thinking about canceling my summit balancer order and picking up an ati.
That’s one reason I never liked end pinning the crank. Personally, I would get and ATI damper and use their pinning kit. I also wouldn’t use RTV anywhere in the assembly. A correctly installed ARP bolt and damper shouldn’t need sealer of any type.
I was going to use sealer in the area where the pin would go if I had reused it to keep it from rattling around.
But if I go with the ati pin crank kit it will be, pin it once and regardless of what balancer I go with as long as it is keyed I should be good to go.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by tommypenguin
Given I just had this crank polished, bearing clearances set and rotating assembly balanced going through that again is not an option. I ordered the ati crank pin kit am thinking about canceling my summit balancer order and picking up an ati.
I think you misunderstood hps' post, he was suggesting using a junk crank just to use to pin your new balancer and when you remove it the pin hole will be perfect, then all you need to do is line it up with your good crank and press it on and you're good to go
I think you misunderstood hps' post, he was suggesting using a junk crank just to use to pin your new balancer and when you remove it the pin hole will be perfect, then all you need to do is line it up with your good crank and press it on and you're good to go
You are correct I totally misread that. That is a great idea! A buddy has an extra crank I can use, will drill on that with the summit balancer and try installing on my current crank. Will use the ATI side crank in the key location if that doesn't work.
You are correct I totally misread that. That is a great idea! A buddy has an extra crank I can use, will drill on that with the summit balancer and try installing on my current crank. Will use the ATI side crank in the key location if that doesn't work.
Sounds like you've got a better plan now, but for future reference, a round pin in a square keyway slot would be a terrible idea. Keys/pins need to fit as perfectly as possible, so a pin in a keyway slot would work loose quickly and destroy things. I can't imagine RTV being any help at all.
Sounds like you've got a better plan now, but for future reference, a round pin in a square keyway slot would be a terrible idea. Keys/pins need to fit as perfectly as possible, so a pin in a keyway slot would work loose quickly and destroy things. I can't imagine RTV being any help at all.
The pin is squared off for the ATI kit so it fits relatively flush in the key way if you don't have a key built into the crank. However from an engineering stand point I prefer to have the full length of the pin holding the crank in place verse the diameter of the pin head. Will post back with my results.