When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi everyone, I recently became a proud owner of a 1999 C5 with only 18000 miles on. As new owners go, I'm new to Corvettes and I'm trying to learn everything I about the car and go through everything to to bottom and make sure it is all in tip-top shape.
As I have been driving the car now for a couple weeks I noticed one thing that worries me, when I accelerate hard, be it from standstill or from a rolling start lets say 20-30 mph, the car pulls to the left and a little to aggressively for it to be normal.
I'm hoping I can get some advice on diagnosing the cause.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by hellraizer
Hi everyone, I recently became a proud owner of a 1999 C5 with only 18000 miles on. As new owners go, I'm new to Corvettes and I'm trying to learn everything I about the car and go through everything to to bottom and make sure it is all in tip-top shape.
As I have been driving the car now for a couple weeks I noticed one thing that worries me, when I accelerate hard, be it from standstill or from a rolling start lets say 20-30 mph, the car pulls to the left and a little to aggressively for it to be normal.
I'm hoping I can get some advice on diagnosing the cause.
check tire pressure .....when you brake with the hands off the wheel what does it do?
almost sounds like a rear suspension problem to me.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I agree to check tire pressure first as well as condition, they could be the original tires and if so they should be replaced regardless... with that low mileage I wouldn't expect anything to be physically damaged or worn but give the suspension a once over just to be sure... then have the alignment checked, I think between tires and alignment you should find the issue
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Apr 6, 2018 at 10:06 PM.
Inner and outer tie rods for one of the rear wheels is failing and allowing that wheel to twist instead of pointing straight per the alignment specs. The tie rods are whats adjusted by the alignment shop to keep that wheel set.
To find out which wheel it is, jack up that side and grasp the tire at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock position and forcefully try to pivot the wheel inward and outward. If you can get a little flex, imagine 350lbs of torque hitting it.
Change both inner and outer at the same time.
Added this pic. The outer screws onto the inner shank and being able to adjust via threads is how you set alignment.
Inner and outer tie rods for one of the rear wheels is failing and allowing that wheel to twist instead of pointing straight per the alignment specs.
I had someting similar with mine - just rolling along and when I goosed it and the nose would go up and to the left - decelerate and it went down and to the right - one of the rear outer rod ends was kaput. How I found it was when putting on the track day tires I grabbed the rear rotor and shook it "just for grins" and was shocked when I found significant play which was remedied after rod end replacement...
WOW Thanks to all of you for suggestions I did not even think of, I'll be checking the following over the weekend and will let you all know what I found
Another thing to check is the posi traction. With the transmission in neutral, parking brake off, and one wheel off the ground try rotating the wheel. It should take a considerable force to turn it. If it turns freely, you have an issue in the differential.
Another thing to check is the posi traction. With the transmission in neutral, parking brake off, and one wheel off the ground try rotating the wheel. It should take a considerable force to turn it. If it turns freely, you have an issue in the differential.
Thanks! With the C5 having a transaxle style differential does the differential still have clutch packs in it?
Last edited by hellraizer; Apr 6, 2018 at 05:31 PM.
I would suspect the inner or outer tie rod joints in the rear. I noticed a similar behavior on my car when I first got it. It was new to me, and my first "high power" RWD, figured it might be "normal". Brought it in to the AX alignment guy and he pointed it out as soon as he started poking at the rear suspension, right rear outer in my case.
Last edited by MustGoFaster; Apr 6, 2018 at 06:09 PM.
Thanks! With the C5 having a transaxle style differential does the differential still have clutch packs in it?
There are clutches in the diff. To be technically correct, the diff is a limited slip. There are Belleville washers that tend to fail according to others on this site. I've not had issues with mine and have never opened one up.
Yes, start simple and check tires then get a alignmnent. My car was nasty when accelerating until I got an alignment, yet it drove straight when just cruising. Nothing else was wrong but the alignment.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
with these types of rear suspensions you can get rear steer.....where the rear suspension due to wear and tear along with misalignment becomes a steering force along with the front wheels
Yes, start simple and check tires then get a alignmnent. My car was nasty when accelerating until I got an alignment, yet it drove straight when just cruising. Nothing else was wrong but the alignment.
So have to give an update. I have investigated a few things and found the following.
Alignment:
Still to be done wish I had more time
Wheels:
All four wheels have damage from bad roads -> this is a work in progress, might replace the wheels with custom wheels and then at the same time replace tires as well
Tie rods, Upper/Lower Control arms
It is very difficult to notice play in the tie rods when you are working by yourself
very noticeable play in the upper control arm bussing (see photo A below)
I also think the lower control arm busing also had play in it but again difficult to say working by yourself (see photo B below)
Would the bushing be done in just 20K miles? Does these bushing perish over time? Are there similar bushings connecting the tie rods? Can anyone recommend replacement bushings kit?
Under hard acceleration car pulls left
same here...
wish I had more time
