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I am in need of some assistance from all you aircon experts out there
I have just done my oil change on the '01 Z06 and saw this green gung on the bottom of the AC compressor. Seems to be around a small circular valve type thing held in by a circlip on the bottom of the compressor. I think its the control/compensation valve. The AC hose manifold at the compresssor isnt leaking any green oil just the pesky fitting on the bottom..
What is that fitting and does it mean a new compressor ?
Also my AC light goes off intermittently when driving so I assume I need Freon too???
I don't know it all, or as much as many, but I'm pretty sure green leakage from the bottom of the compressor is oil, and a sign that you compressor is past it's expiration date...
Just like mine.
I don't know it all, or as much as many, but I'm pretty sure green leakage from the bottom of the compressor is oil, and a sign that you compressor is past it's expiration date...
Just like mine.
Cheers Redzg,
Oh well best get onto Rock auto to check out the parts list that I need.
I think the water pump has got to come out to get at the compressor. Hopefully someone will point me in the right direction on how to do the job myself.
...leaking... ...green oil [at the] fitting on the bottom... ...does it mean a new compressor?
Also my AC light goes off intermittently when driving so I assume I need Freon too???...
Either way, I suggest you should get a set of A/C manifold gauges. Doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and uber expensive. One from Harbor Freight would be fine.
Although not essential, a thermometer will give you a better idea of the A/C system health. You can get
Check both pressures to have an idea of how things are. Take a look at this post. It has detailed instructions to check/add refrigerant.
-These are the CliffsNotes:
Check your pressures against the chart below. Make sure you take your readings with:
Engine @ 2000 rpm
A/C in coldest setting
Fan at maximum speed
Both windows down
Thermometer in center air vent
When adding refrigerant, pay attention to both pressures, otherwise you might end up with the high side sky-high trying to get the low side to the chart's value.
Either way, I suggest you should get a set of A/C manifold gauges. Doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and uber expensive. One from Harbor Freight would be fine.
Although not essential, a thermometer will give you a better idea of the A/C system health. You can get one of these for around 5 bucks:
Check both pressures to have an idea of how things are. Take a look at this post. It has detailed instructions to check/add refrigerant.
-These are the CliffsNotes:
Check your pressures against the chart below. Make sure you take your readings with:
Engine @ 2000 rpm
A/C in coldest setting
Fan at maximum speed
Both windows down
Thermometer in center air vent
When adding refrigerant, pay attention to both pressures, otherwise you might end up with the high side sky-high trying to get the low side to the chart's value.
Let us know how it goes.
If the compressor needs replacement, take a look at this kit. Includes everything, except the refrigerant and the compressor it's brand new. All for around $180.
.
Thanks GCG..
Whats troubling me is the small amount of green stuff on the bottom of the compressor. The car doesnt get used much and maybe an O ring has shrunk. Its leaking from the little vale held in by a circlip underneath. I have never recharged in 10 years of ownership so could low pressure be my enemy and cause this or is it new compressor time..just a thought ?
Good idea to evaluate the gas level first with the gages and the thermometer. I wonder if Fleabay do the gages and hose/thermometer as I don't do harbour freight here. Are the Schrader valves standard on aircon or are these a special size as the only Schrader valve I ever touch is on my push bike. In other words will any air con gage kit fit ?
I wonder if Rock do a kit like that..I couldn't get the link to open?
Sorry about all the questions but I am now keen to do this myself regardless !
You know, if it’s a slow leak - which it sounds like it is - then a refrigerant top off will get you cool for a lot less money and work. If mine would run a month between fills I’d leave it be. Unfortunately I don’t get a full day...
You know, if it’s a slow leak - which it sounds like it is - then a refrigerant top off will get you cool for a lot less money and work. If mine would run a month between fills I’d leave it be. Unfortunately I don’t get a full day...
It would be nice to just top up but the oil getting out of the compressor is not good... and yes the water pump has got to come out. I think it is easier than taking it out another way.. store the coolant that comes out the drain plug and reuse.
I am just looking into a set of gages to check the R134a pressure..are these sets universal I wonder or is there a "Vette" version
Whats troubling me is the small amount of green stuff on the bottom of the compressor. The car doesnt get used much and maybe an O ring has shrunk. Its leaking from the little vale held in by a circlip underneath. I have never recharged in 10 years of ownership so could low pressure be my enemy and cause this or is it new compressor time..just a thought ?
Good idea to evaluate the gas level first with the gages and the thermometer. I wonder if Fleabay do the gages and hose/thermometer as I don't do harbour freight here. Are the Schrader valves standard on aircon or are these a special size as the only Schrader valve I ever touch is on my push bike. In other words will any air con gage kit fit ?
I wonder if Rock do a kit like that..I couldn't get the link to open?
Sorry about all the questions but I am now keen to do this myself regardless !
If the car doesn't get used too much the possibility of developing a very slow leak through an O-ring after 10 years is very likely. I would definitely check the pressures, recharge and try to use the A/C more often, keeping an eye on it, before jumping on the compressor replacement. Perhaps the O-ring could recover with use and, anyways, for all we know the leak could be so slow that the recharge could last years.
I gave you links to Amazon for both, the thermometer and the compressor kit. I just tested them again and they work on my end. The gauges are a most and you could get them from Amazon, eBay, etc. I just mentioned Harbor Freight ($60) to let you know they don't have to be Snap-On
Yes, the Schrader valves per se are standard, but you need to get an A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a. It will have the right couplers.
If the car doesn't get used too much the possibility of developing a very slow leak through an O-ring after 10 years is very likely. I would definitely check the pressures, recharge and try to use the A/C more often, keeping an eye on it, before jumping on the compressor replacement. Perhaps the O-ring could recover with use and, anyways, for all we know the leak could be so slow that the recharge could last years.
I gave you links to Amazon for both, the thermometer and the compressor kit. I just tested them again and they work on my end. The gauges are a most and you could get them from Amazon, eBay, etc. I just mentioned Harbor Freight ($60) to let you know they don't have to be Snap-On
Yes, the Schrader valves per se are standard, but you need to get an A/C manifold gauge set for R-134a. It will have the right couplers.
I think I answered all your questions Let us know how it goes
Thanks GCG
This is all making sense now.. I will get the gages and thermometer and check those pressures..and feel safe doing it! don't want to turn into Mr Freeze !
Those links do work by the way..must have been my PC.
One more question if I need to top up do I need to put anymore oil in to replace what may have been lost and how would I do it ??
Thanks GCG
This is all making sense now.. I will get the gages and thermometer and check those pressures..and feel safe doing it! don't want to turn into Mr Freeze !
Those links do work by the way..must have been my PC.
One more question if I need to top up do I need to put anymore oil in to replace what may have been lost and how would I do it ??
Go back to Post 4 and click on the link I gave you to the step-by-step directions. It is a fantastic post by Plasticfan, very detailed and a must-read for any beginner.
Regarding the oil, it's impossible to know exactly how much has been lost, but by your description of the situation it doesn't seem you have ever found a puddle of oil on the floor of your garage, right? If that's the case I wouldn't risk adding oil and overfill the system.
Go back to Post 4 and click on the link I gave you to the step-by-step directions. It is a fantastic post by Plasticfan, very detailed and a must-read for any beginner.
Regarding the oil, it's impossible to know exactly how much has been lost, but by your description of the situation it doesn't seem you have ever found a puddle of oil on the floor of your garage, right? If that's the case I wouldn't risk adding oil and overfill the system.
Right.. gages ordered along with the same thermometer and virtually the same tap. Got a good deal thru Amazon on the gages and a vac pump.. a combo deal. Can always loan it out to other guys iif needed. TheR134a tap is similar to yours. Will also buy a can of R134a just incase.
As suggested I will study the Plasticfan procedure and print if off to take in the garage. I do think I need refrigerant because the AC light has started going out on the dual zone head unit sometimes
Should have used that AC more over the last 9-10 years
[QUOTE=GCG;1597071591]Fantastic! Let us know how it goes [/QUOT
Hey.. Look what turned up in the Post Just waiting for the thermometer then I'm good to go. But the weather has turned cold here like 42f which is weird because it was 80 the other week. so will hold off for a while.
One question.. if I need refrigerant which I am pretty sure I do shall I put a small amount of PAG 150 oil in the yellow line too and blast it in with the gas?... Not sure how much got lost but as said no mess on the garage floor but a little might not hurt.
Also is that the best way to add oil for top ups or is there a better method ?
...Not sure how much got lost but as said no mess on the garage floor but a little might not hurt...
Hey, congratulations! Those gadgets sure look nice!
You mentioned the car doesn't get used too much, and neither does the A/C. Probably the slow refrigerant leak just dragged along the little oil that's there. Since nothing got puddled on the garage floor and it doesn't seem likely that it's been leaking someplace else, I wouldn't risk overfilling the oil and causing damage. Perhaps someone else with more experience can chime in, but that's what I would do.
would allow you to add 2 ounces of oil. But again, we don't know how much oil was lost and there's no way to measure it to only add let's say 0.5oz. It comes like a regular can of R-134a and it has 2oz of oil plus 1oz of refrigerant.
You may want to consider beginning the recharge of refrigerant with one of these. It's supposed to stop small leaks and condition seals and o-rings. Comes like a regular can of refrigerant.
Regarding the oil, this would allow you to add 2 ounces of oil. But again, we don't know how much oil was lost and there's no way to measure it to only add let's say 0.5oz. It comes like a regular can of R-134a and it has 2oz of oil plus 1oz of refrigerant.
Thanks for that..its something else to think about and a good way of getting the oil or leak stopper into the system too.. PAG46, is that a different weight of oil compared to PAG150 ?
Hey, congratulations! Those gadgets sure look nice!
You mentioned the car doesn't get used too much, and neither does the A/C. Probably the slow refrigerant leak just dragged along the little oil that's there. Since nothing got puddled on the garage floor and it doesn't seem likely that it's been leaking someplace else, I wouldn't risk overfilling the oil and causing damage. Perhaps someone else with more experience can chime in, but that's what I would do.
Right here we go guys..the temp has warmed up to a nice 72F and humidity 50ish so I hooked the gages up to do some tests...
This is what I got according to plasticfans excellent write up.
Static readings with engine off Low 79psi and high 42psi
Dynamic(engine running) at 2000 rpm and everything on max Low25psi high 210psi duct temp 48F.
All went ok till I disconnected the lines and both Schraders are spitting at me so I have put the dust caps back on till I know what to do..
AC system
Let us know how it goes 
so I have put the dust caps back on till I know what to do..