I wanted to share share my experience with "discount headers". I had been studying the different options for a while, keeping my eye towards something cheap. I know the consensus among most here is buy quality if you want an easy install, but I enjoy wrenching and could easily justify a little headache to save a grand.

I had considered buying headers alone, as they can be had as cheap as 150 bucks on eBay, but what turned me off is that they all had 4 bolt flange ball socket connections. All the available header adapters seemed to be 3 bolt.

I also looked at the "complete" systems in the 400 dollar range. They were all closer to mid-length, and I wanted long primaries to get as much torque as possible.

This led me to chose the 250 dollar Amazon set. I had seen installed pictures from another member on this site, so I knew they would fit without too much trouble. They had long primaries like LG or Texas Speed. They just meant a little fabrication as the x-pipe comes about 18" short.

Unboxing:

I was pretty impressed with the quality when I first received them. They were not packaged well, and the box was beat up, but they had not sustained any damage outside of small scratches. Again, fine for my purposes. Using a magnet, I discovered the flanges were not stainless like the tubing was. It appears to be steel with chrome or ceramic plating. Not ideal, but these are not the parts that I need to worry about rusting out. The exhaust flange also showed daylight in the middle when I held up a straight edge. It wasn't so much warped as it was bowed in middle. This has not been an issue, as I tightened the bolts in the middle first, and it pulled the flange flat.

The exhaust flange gaskets were cheap, and the collector gasket was completely wrong. It came with a flat flange gasket, but you need a donut. 3" donut gaskets are hard to find, but finally discovered that Walker #31556 fit the bill.

Modifications:

One criteria that my selected headers did not meet was deletion of the AIR system. I at first considered just using block off plates, but I had heard reports from others that the weight of the plate unsupported by the AIR tubes would eventually lead to cracking. I considered finding a fabricator to weld up the AIR holes, but thought that the expense would negate the benefits of cheap headers. In the end I wound up purchasing some stainless steel flux MIG wire to run through my Harbor Freight welder. In addition to filling the AIR holes, I used the stainless wire to weld on a bracket for my dipstick (I have a 2000, and all headers are set up to use 2001 and later dipsticks. That's another $100 saved). I also chose to weld (stainless) extensions to the x-pipe instead of using adapters.

Most of my headaches were caused by my desire to try welding stainless for the first time. It proved to be a little more difficult that mild steel. I couldn't get the heat dialed in. I would go from no penetration to blowing holes in the tubing. It also presented a problem after the fact as they shortly developed pinholes creating exhaust leaks. I was able to fix the primary tubes in the car, but couldn't grind them smooth again. So now I have my booger welds on display anytime my hood is up. The x-pipe welds are currently wrapped with aluminum tape. I will address the pinholes when I remove it to add cats.




Headers and x-pipe post modifications

Installation:

I ending up doing the install in my driveway on jack stands. Easily doable, but I would recommend a lift to anyone who has one available. The old exhaust came out easily, but did end up cutting the studs off the drivers side manifold.

From the driver's side I removed the alternator, steering shaft, and valve cover. I also had to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine. The passenger side I had to remove the valve cover, starter, and once again lift the engine. The tabs near the collectors kept getting hung up, and in the end not matching up to the hanger on the bell housing. In hindsight, I should had cut them off.

The tunnel plate had to be cut to allow clearance for the o2 sensors and their wiring. I could not figure out anyway to run the o2 extensions WITHOUT running them through the plate. Any other way would have them draped directly over the primary tubes.

The x-pipe also presented a challenge as my extensions ran parallel from the x-pipe and ended up being closer together than the collectors. My fault for welding them on beforehand.

Installed at the same time as the headers was an LS6 manifold, and a new PCM. I knew I would need a tune, but could not afford to send mine off in the mail. This is my daily, and my wife would be upset if I couldn't pick up my daughter from day care. So I purchased a Camaro PCM for about 30 bucks off of eBay and had it shipped directly to ECS.







My four year old helping out.



In conclusion, I do not regret my purchase. I do wish I had done a few things differently. I cannot speak for power increase as I have not seen a dyno. It has really woken up the Corsa Sports. I do not care for the raw exhaust smell, although that has greatly decreased with the fix of my exhaust leaks.

I plan on adding Cat's soon. I already have a set of Magnaflow 200 cells. I'm still deciding on how to install. My options are to cut the flange off of the resonators and weld them to the cats, or try and install them after the resonators in the narrow part of the tunnel.

Pros:
Cheap
Long primaries
Decent Fit
Stainless Construction (mainly)

Cons:
Incomplete kit
AIR fittings
Fabrication Required
Crappy o2 location

Cost:
Header/ x-pipe kit 250
header bolts 15
Flange Gaskets 25
Donut Gaskets 30
2.5 Tubing 35 (Only because I bought stainless pipe)
Stepped Exhaust clamps 30
Stainless MIG wire 30
o2 extensions 20
PCM 30
Mail Order Tune 150
LS6 Intake 270
Intake/injector gaskets 40
MagnaFlow cats 80

Total 1005

So in the end this was not a "cheap" project. But I have many upgrades and supporting mods for less than what many would pay for headers alone.

 

 

Not all stainless is anti-magnetic. Not saying the flanges are necessarily stainless, mind you, just that a magnet does not exclude them.

 

I've been following a lot of threads on the budget headers and it seems like you had A LOT more issues than most. Specifically the tunnel plate, o2 wiring issues etc. I'll be anxious to hear if anyone else that have used the budget headers, experienced the same issues.

 

I had a hard time finding good information. I wanted to give as much details as possible so others could decide if the extra headaches were worth the savings.

 

I just ordered Speed engineering headers on Monday. I'll report how they go, a lot of people seem to like them. A bit cheaper then TSP, but a bit more expensive then Ebay/Amazon headers.

 

Great write up on these headers. Mine are going strong and ag8ng well. More than pleased with the money saved on mine.

 

 

I saw Scrufs garage just posted a video using XP headers off ebay. He was not a fan.

 

I just checked out the video you mentioned. I didnt have any of the issues he did. That's the problem with lumping all cheap headers together, as there are multiple designs for sale. The design I have appear to be LG knock -offs, and are more similar to OBX than XS Power. Actually, looking at the OBX , I wouldn't be surprised if mine came from the same factory.

And to comment on your earlier post, LG headers also have you trim the tunnel shield for o2 clearence.

 

Did this set of headers have any type of insert welded in the collector?
Similar to a fire cone?

 

No insert as far as a pointed piece. I found a picture off the web that looks similar.

 

Just wanted to give an update. I've been chasing a creaking noise that started shortly after the header install. I decided to fab up a plate to connect the bellhousing exhaust hanger to the tabs on the primary tubes. If you check out the pictures above you'll see that they didnt line up and I just neglected to use them. Well it turns out that not having them connected was my problem after all.

 

Do all the spark plug wires and bolts clear the header tubes? It looks like #5 is pretty close.

 

Clearance is pretty good, Cylinder 2 actually is the tightest. The rubber boot almost touches. It doesnt seem to be a problem, after all this time there is no discoloration or melting. I would probably have even more clearance with aftermarket wires

 

 

Got it...thanks