Driver's side Headlight Refuses to Flip up...Sometimes.
Any thoughts about what might be happening? Does this portend anything bad for the future?





this is what they look like https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...SABEgKIhfD_BwE
The same thing happened on my '00 and it was caused by the rubber boot that you remove for 'manual' operation being pushed on too far. Try removing the boot and see if it makes a difference. If not, you probably just need to drive that pristine car more
You can try a simple test by manually beginning to open the driver's side headlight before actioning the headlight switch. If it goes up after doing that, most probably is the rubber bump stops.
In addition to that, there is a TSB addressing those symptoms that calls for shimming the driver's side motor.
Last edited by GCG; May 26, 2018 at 01:01 AM.






I ordered a rebuilt motor with a 5 year warranty on Ebay. Stay tuned.
It goes in next week.
I ordered a rebuilt motor with a 5 year warranty on Ebay. Stay tuned.
It goes in next week.
The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turns cuts power to the motors.
If there are missing or damaged bump stops, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.
If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work, then you have a good indication that the bump stops are damaged or scored too deep where the limiting contact is made.
I would do the test and check all rubber bump stops (4 per side). If you need replacements you can order them from here.
Last edited by GCG; May 26, 2018 at 12:55 PM.
The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turns cuts power to the motors.
If there are missing or damaged bump stops, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.
If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work, then you have a good indication that the bump stops are damaged or scored too deep where the limiting contact is made.
I would do the test and check all rubber bump stops (4 per side). If you need replacements you can order them from here.
totally, that's exactly what my 99 was doing. I replace bumper stop and all seems well. It's the one you can only see with the headlight up.






The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turns cuts power to the motors.
If there are missing or damaged bump stops, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.
If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work, then you have a good indication that the bump stops are damaged or scored too deep where the limiting contact is made.
I would do the test and check all rubber bump stops (4 per side). If you need replacements you can order them from here.
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All these questions should be checked at this point.











As mentioned earlier the way the motors work there are only a few things that can cause the issue you are having. The big one being the stops. Unless you have a gear going bad inside there isn't much else.
If it is overtorquing when closing and is not the rubber bump stops, or excessive play in the linkage, the only other alternative remaining is wear in the plastic gear teeth around the closed position, as you found out
Last edited by GCG; May 27, 2018 at 11:40 AM.






New to me rebuilt motor bought on Ebay for $90 went in this morning. Issue is resolved. No more binding and opens every time.
I do think the new motor is a bit noisier closing though. Not sure if they used brass gears in the rebuild. That may be the reason.















