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Installed pics of LG drop spindles where they meet control arms

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Installed pics of LG drop spindles where they meet control arms

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Old 06-16-2018, 09:15 PM
  #21  
oneandgone
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I want to thank you all for the input ad help!!

Originally Posted by 6speedsteve View Post
I just checked the angle meter versus cheaters method & it is correct, on the spindles the tie rod is disconnected when you are moving the spindle?
if not is the steering wheel unlocked?
I've done it with the steering attached and unattached. Either way it was way stiffer than any car I've ever worked on. Steering is always unlocked, LMC5.

Originally Posted by 6speedsteve View Post
Couple more things, is the spindle binding/rubbing anywhere on the control arms? I know the top is real close to the arm.

Your ball joint has to move freely and you can only insert it so far into the spindle, the top pin is in a spherical bearing which moves real easy, I put some never seize on mine where the pin fits into the bearing.

Ball joints original or replacement?
Ball joints are og. No rubbing anywhere.

Originally Posted by 6speedsteve View Post
Some detail shots, possibly some good reference info to be seen.
Thank you sir. Everything on your car is so clean, makes me want to shine mine up underneath and I thought I had a cleaner than average underside.

Originally Posted by lionelhutz View Post
How tight you go should have no effect on how it rotates. The rotation is in the lower ball joint that stays with the lower control arm and the upper bearing that comes in the spindle. So if the original spindle turned easily yet the LG one turns very hard, then either the upper bearing is bad or it's rubbing somewhere.
Yes, that makes sense. It definitely did get harder to turn though, no rubbing for sure.

Originally Posted by charger21 View Post
Make sure the rear lower control arm does not contact the inner wheel barrel. All the ones I have seen need to have some material removed from the control arm on both C5/C6.
I'll keep an eye out for that. I'm running 19s so I'm not sure if that will be an issue or not. I hope not. It will probably be a week or more before I get back to this project and work on the rear.

Originally Posted by 6speedsteve View Post
I agree, or if the tie rod is connected it may have something to do with the steering rack, since they are used that upper bearing could be seized.

Also were they marked front & rear when you bought them?
Bearings are definitely not seized. In fact, they're damn near brand new, I think I was told 500 miles on them and I can believe it. Left front and right rear are the same, right front and left rear are the same. I don't know specifically which spindle they had on which corner.

SO, I finally got to get back onto this project full bore a couple nights ago and here's what I did...

I broke everything back loose on the front, AGAIN. I torqued everything to the final torque spec in step three, skipping steps one and two. It was still snug to turn, definitely tighter than stock. However, when you put a jack under the lca and get the weight onto the springs it loosens up quite a bit. I think that the angle of the top pin is so extreme when the wheels are hanging that it creates a bit of a bind. I can't imagine that ever being an issue on the street.

So, the front is together, the back is going to have to wait. All of the brakes are on. I bled them last night and have some seeping under pressure at the banjo bolts. Going to replace all bolts and washers and re bleed. Should be good to go after that. Kinda wish I'd just bought the Doug Rippie C5-C6Z lines. Only reason I didn't is because I already have Russel lines on the car.

I'm anxious to drive the car and see how badly it needs a fresh alignment. Not sure when I can get that worked in. Hopefully it's livable until I get the rears done so I can just get one alignment and be done.

Last edited by oneandgone; 06-16-2018 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by oneandgone View Post
I want to thank you all for the input ad help!!



I've done it with the steering attached and unattached. Either way it was way stiffer than any car I've ever worked on. Steering is always unlocked, LMC5.



Ball joints are og. No rubbing anywhere.



Thank you sir. Everything on your car is so clean, makes me want to shine mine up underneath and I thought I had a cleaner than average underside.



Yes, that makes sense. It definitely did get harder to turn though, no rubbing for sure.



I'll keep an eye out for that. I'm running 19s so I'm not sure if that will be an issue or not. I hope not. It will probably be a week or more before I get back to this project and work on the rear.



Bearings are definitely not seized. In fact, they're damn near brand new, I think I was told 500 miles on them and I can believe it. Left front and right rear are the same, right front and left rear are the same. I don't know specifically which spindle they had on which corner.

SO, I finally got to get back onto this project full bore a couple nights ago and here's what I did...

I broke everything back loose on the front, AGAIN. I torqued everything to the final torque spec in step three, skipping steps one and two. It was still snug to turn, definitely tighter than stock. However, when you put a jack under the lca and get the weight onto the springs it loosens up quite a bit. I think that the angle of the top pin is so extreme when the wheels are hanging that it creates a bit of a bind. I can't imagine that ever being an issue on the street.

So, the front is together, the back is going to have to wait. All of the brakes are on. I bled them last night and have some seeping under pressure at the banjo bolts. Going to replace all bolts and washers and re bleed. Should be good to go after that. Kinda wish I'd just bought the Doug Rippie C5-C6Z lines. Only reason I didn't is because I already have Russel lines on the car.

I'm anxious to drive the car and see how badly it needs a fresh alignment. Not sure when I can get that worked in. Hopefully it's livable until I get the rears done so I can just get one alignment and be done.
I admit to doing overkill when it comes to keeping my car clean, one positive is I am always looking for issues when cleaning.

Once you attach your shock the angle on the top of the spindle won't be as extreme, even at full droop.

Once mine was back together my steering wheel would get yanked around some when hitting bumps due to the toe out condition, but it was driveable.

Glad to see you are a least heading towards completion, don't forget those pictures when done.
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