LED Taillights trigger ATC Service warning
).The link I just gave you is actually linking to a 2nd thread that has more details and goes deeper into this. After you read the 1st one, don't forget to continue to the 2nd.
Last edited by GCG; Jun 14, 2018 at 12:05 PM.
These are what I used with success. But testing later showed that using two, rather than four worked just as well. I didn't test using only one, but that may be enough.
Be sure to screw these onto the metal bar behind/below the tail lights to help dissipate the heat from the resistors.
Jim
These are what I used with success. But testing later showed that using two, rather than four worked just as well. I didn't test using only one, but that may be enough.
Be sure to screw these onto the metal bar behind/below the tail lights to help dissipate the heat from the resistors.
Jim
4 Resistors 6 ohms 50 watts
with what's mentioned regarding how to install the resistors to dissipate heat.Take a look at this post for a discussion about how many resistors, considering their value and wattage. Definitely they need to be installed in a symmetric way: either 1 per side, or 2 per side, etc.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Consequently, to install just 2 resistors (1 per side) they would need to be 4 ohms at the most.
Last edited by GCG; Jun 14, 2018 at 01:33 PM.
In that thread we were trying to emulate the design of the LED Halo Taillights (8 ohms resistors, 2 per side for a total of 4).
Last edited by GCG; Jun 14, 2018 at 01:38 PM.
My C5 is 2004; with the 4 HALO LEDs tail lights and 1 new LED 3rd brake light. I have also installed the hyperflash harness.
1) installing the LED 3rd brake light with 4 OEM incandescent bulbs did not affect the brake light function. (however at the time I installed only this light, I never thought about any interference with the Flahers/ATC.)
2) I then added the 4 HALOs and the ATC codes kept triggering once the flashers were activated.
3) I then added 1 6-ohm, 50 Watt resistor to 1 brake light, and this DID NOT correct the ATC code from triggering.
4) Then, 1 at a time, I added a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th resistor (all identical ratings) --- neither 1, 2, 3, or 4 resistors in total corrected the ATC code issue.
So...I am at loss here. My understanding is that adding 4 6-ohm resistors to the brake/signal circuit results in bringing the total resistance up by about 1.5 ohms. Apparently, this is NOT enough of a load to stabilize the circuit.
Finally - from the wiring diagrams I have found, the Driver side (L) color code is Blk = ground, Brown = tail light, yellow = Brake/signal. Passenger side (R) color code is Blk = ground, Brown = tail light, green = Brake/signal.
I have all of my now-installed 4 resistors spliced into the Black and either Yellow or Green wires, for the Driver and Passenger sides, respectively.
If anyone has further info, I would be most grateful. At this point, I may swap out the 6 ohm resistors for 8 ohms each. And, if anyone knows the Wattage (power) for the circuit we can more accurately select the right value resistor.
Ugh...

It turns out that once I had the 4 resistors in place and this did not help anything, I put everything back to stock configuration and started over.
Because I had also replaced the 3rd brake light with a modern LED unit, I decided to start with adding one 6 ohm resistor in parallel with the 3rd light. As luck would have it, this corrected the ATC code issue. I had all 4 LED halos connected with NO added resistors on any of these 4 fixtures. In the end all I needed was 1 resistor and this did the trick.
Why nothing helped with resistors attached to the Halo harness is not clear to me, but I am guessing that their on-board resistors + the added load resulted in an incorrect total resistance. Since the 3rd light did not have any resistor, this could have been why this worked.
Here are a few pics of how I mounted the resistor: I used an aluminum angle iron piece drilled to mount on the interior mounting stud. There was NO way I could drill through the box beam frame steel. I extended the resistor wires to reach the center light harness and spliced them in. This worked for me.
Resistor is to be mounted on metal to help dissipate the heat. These resistors get HOT.
Here is the side view. Note the the mounted bracket is not in contact with the car's brace - there is an air space between the back of the brace and the car's bracket.










