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I have a 99 Coupe that had always had a chronic brake problem. Almost from the very beginning, I would feel pulsing in the front brakes, even under only moderate or light braking.
Took it to the dealer, and they diagnosed warped rotors. I had them resurfaced, (the brakes, not the dealer-- though I was tempted) and the problem came back in a few months.
Went back to the dealer, and had them resurfaced again. The problem came back again.
Finally in January of this year the dealer replaced the rotors. Guess what? The problem is back yet again.
Took it to a dealer (a new one-- I just moved) and they won't fix it under warranty.
I'm not too much of a gearhead, so I don't know what causes warped rotors, but it seems to me like I should not be having problems like this over and over and over again, especially nine months after having the brakes replaced. I don't drive the car that hard, and I've only put about 5,000 miles on the car since the replacement.
I called GM, and they told me the rotors I got in January should have a 12month/12000 mile warranty, but they can't make the dealer honor it.
Has anyone heard of such a thing? And for that matter, has anyone had a brake issue similar to mine?
Also contact Doug Rippie Motorsports and buy a brake bias spring. It is easy to install and puts more rear brake in the car. I have it and since I have had it installed I have not had a problem with my brakes.
You don't have to drive "that hard" to warp brake rotors. On the contrary, you can drive the snot out of the car (and brakes) and still not have rotors warp.
Rotors warp whey you (the driver) don't let the brakes cool in a completely relaxed manner. This means:
A) after a heat soaking stop--get off the brakes--and don't use the emergency brake either--automatics shift into neutral; let ther rotors cool without any forces being applied.
B) come to a stop in traffic 30 feet early, then inch forward while waiting out the light to exposed different sections of the rotor to the cooling air
C) in the last 1 mile of any journey, don't use the brakes hard, so that when you stop you CAN set the emergenty/parking brake or use 1st gear to hold the car.
You don't have to drive "that hard" to warp brake rotors. On the contrary, you can drive the snot out of the car (and brakes) and still not have rotors warp.
Rotors warp when you (the driver) don't let the brakes cool in a completely relaxed manner. This means:
According to GM, the new rotorsshave a 12 month/12K mile warranty, and I'm way under on both counts. I think this dealer is just being a dick (Maher Chevrolet, by the way).
I'll try someplace else. Suggestions in the Tampa Bay area are welcomed.
You may want to make sure you've got decent brake pads too. If you read the Stoptech article on warping you know that rotors don't really warp. It's pad material that fuses to the rotor surface. If you've got "Joe's brand" pads, they may be contributing to the problem. Good luck!
Welcome to the club. Alot of us have had the warped rotor problem, especially those with A4 transmissions (if you leave it in gear, you need to hold the car at a light with your foot on the brake & that seems to kill the rotors). I like the idea of stopping short and creeping forward at a light & going easy the last mile or so, it makes alot of sence). There have been many threads on this before (I just don't know how to get to them :( , maybe some one else can tell us both how to find them). I have been told that GM makes a heavy duty replacement rotor that is less prown to warpage. I went with Eradispeed rotors by Baer and haven't had a problem since. Baer warranties these rotors not to warp. If you want to IM me I'll tell you where I got them. The place I got mine really took good care of me. I'd post their name but they are not a sponsor of the forum yet. We went with the Performance friction "Z" Carbon Metallic pads, they are awesome and don't seem to dust as much as the stock GM pads and IMHO "Hawk Pads suck" (but that is just my opinion).