High Oil Pressure
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
High Oil Pressure
After I got the valve spring replaced I had a p0522 code something about a oil pressure switch low voltage. So I had replaced the valves cover gaskets because there worn out and stretched. Now the vehicle had a 82 psi oil reading after about 20 minutes of driving around. It does go down 1-7 psi on a short pulls. Climbs back up to 82. The p0522 code no longer exist after changing the valve cover gasket. Not sure if this is regular pressure before it broke a spring 2 weeks ago the pressure ran 40-60 but the seals were prob bad then. I just turned the car on. Ac mode the gauge still reads 85 psi and it’s not running.
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 7, 2018 at 11:32 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
After I got the valve spring replaced I had a p0522 code something about a oil pressure switch low voltage. So I had replaced the valves cover gaskets because there worn out and stretched. Now the vehicle had a 82 psi oil reading after about 20 minutes of driving around. It does go down 1-7 psi on a short pulls. Climbs back up to 82. The p0522 code no longer exist after changing the valve cover gasket. Not sure if this is regular pressure before it broke a spring 2 weeks ago the pressure ran 40-60 but the seals were prob bad then. I just turned the car on. Ac mode the gauge still reads 85 psi and it’s not running.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 95
Likes: 17
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
I know your intake didn't have to come off for the spring change, but the wire is routed by the valve spring covers and is very easy to damage.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
Dammm.... that’s a ton of time getting to one switch I saw a video you can get to it with removing the intake. I’ll try and let ya all know it it goes thanks for the heads up
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
Got the switch out and replace runs like it’s in top shape. All codes off in pcm. Tools used long pliers not much help. 1-24 inch screwdriver to break the bottom of the old sensor. Socket 1-1/16 deep well half inch with a long 8 inch 3/8 extension. Adapter to 1/2 inch and 3/8 swivel. The issue was getting the old out after it’s unscrewed, it’s a tight fit for any hand or pliers I would recommend using a 14-16 in needle nose to get it for future people.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
If you choose to break the plastic piece on the sensor with the screw driver. Maybe 1 hour or so if you have everything and don’t drop the sensor like I did in unhook the brake booster line and take out your oil vacuum tube that runs from the valve covers . You really gotta jam your hand to put the sensor back in place. Loosened a retainer piece on the intake also just enoug to let it wiggle. I feel having longer needle nose would have helped out but good luck unhook the sensor clip I chose to break it then it dangles you can just pull it up and unhooke the connection. 14-16 inch needles nose pliers I would recommend
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 8, 2018 at 10:29 PM.
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
I dont have the experience what would take a knowledgeable person maybe 15 mins for the average joe I guess up to 1-2 hours. I’m just a a weekend warrior ttrying to save a few bucks and figure it out as it goes
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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Process is basically the same:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
Vettenuts will point out from time to time LS1howto is far from perfect especial on the harmonic balancer/heads and cam install, If you can get a service manual read over their steps. I do like that it provides pictures and a basic sequence of steps.
Disconnect the air bridge from the throttle body.
I do not disconnect the fuel rail from the line or injectors from the rail. You have to disconnect the wiring harness from all 8 injectors, just be gentle. The rail comes off the intake with 4 bolts. We fold it over on to the windshield washer reservoir or the base of the windshield on a towel or work mat. You do have to disconnect the wiring harness from all 8 injectors, just be gentle.
The throttle body comes off the intake with 3 bolts and I believe 2 clips for the wires. If you have done a throttlebody coolant bypass I would leave the throttle body bolted to the intake if possible. If it is stock I would try to pull the intake without disconnecting the coolant lines by unbolting the throttle body from the intake laying the TB forward.
Tip on reinstalling the rear bolts on the intake, as they must be in the intake as the cowl does not give enough room to put them in once the intake is on the motor: We like to use some hose to keep the bolts to keep the head the bolt up and the bottom tip of the bolt in the intake. Cut the hose on 1 side so you can pull it off once the intake is on the motor allowing the bolt to drop all the way down.
Replace the O rings on the bottom of the injector, I'd google ls1tech on what to use to properly lube the o rings when sliding the injector back into the intake. We just use some gas. Fuel injector connection recommended dish soap.
Torque intake down to spec in the factory recommended sequence, it is especially necessary to do this on FAST intakes.
LS1howto I believe covers the vacuum lines attached to the intake. The rear has the brake booster hose which I'd leave connected to the intake. I believe there is 1 more small vacuum line on the rear, just go slow pulling the intake I believe it is the passenger side along with the MAP sensor. A new MAP sensor grommet is a good idea, they are easy to damage especially if they have never been take apart.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-grommet.html
Last edited by 93Polo; Jul 9, 2018 at 10:14 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 294
Likes: 15
From: South Orange Co. CA
I took the intake manifold out when I did mine. But I broke a wire on the manifold pressure sensor - of course, didn't know it until I put it all back together. I wound up getting a connector with new wires and soldered to the existing wires. Moral of story: there is not much room back there and no way to see what's going on. Be careful. Also, the vacuum tube is really short, so I made an extension so I could have a service loop when I put it back together.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
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From: California
I think I just might invest in the relocation kit for future if I can pick one up used and cheap. So the next time it blows out the intake will need a new gasket perfect time to do the relocation. I’m guessing water leaks down in the back and just shorts out the boards when the car is washed. That’s just a guess though. I’ve blown a signal light every time I wash my car so I keep plenty of bulbs handy lol
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
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