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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by spllbnd2
If your ps fluid was low you should fill it a bit then perform a bleed cycle by turning the steering wheel left and right to the stops with the engine running. As for hard steering still being an issue, I would look at the steering rack. But before that I would check the steering input sensors that allow the active steering to perform correctly. Ohm meter and checking the sensors along with pcm output voltage to the sensor most likely. But I would first refer to the shop manual for the steering electrical diagnosis .
When you say bleed cycle, does anything need to be "open" or does the air vent from the cap? I think the fluid did improve the steering a bit, but I plan to check the fluid level again today.

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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 91LSMAN
When you say bleed cycle, does anything need to be "open" or does the air vent from the cap? I think the fluid did improve the steering a bit, but I plan to check the fluid level again today.
usually when I would do this bleed process at the dealership I would leave the cap off.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by spllbnd2


usually when I would do this bleed process at the dealership I would leave the cap off.
This may sound dumb-would the wheels need to be off the ground? You are talking about leaving the car stationary and turning the wheels back and forth with the PS fluid cap off-just making sure I understand. After a drive to get some lunch today (I'm an onsite property manager) I can feel there has been improvement-unless I've just gotten used to it

I will try to bleed some more air out tonight-hopefully.

Last edited by 91LSMAN; Jul 12, 2018 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 91LSMAN
This may sound dumb-would the wheels need to be off the ground? You are talking about leaving the car stationary and turning the wheels back and forth with the PS fluid cap off-just making sure I understand. After a drive to get some lunch today (I'm an onsite property manager) I can feel there has been improvement-unless I've just gotten used to it

I will try to bleed some more air out tonight-hopefully.

No dumb questions imo. No you do not have to lift the front tires, unless you wish to. And yes, leave the car stationary with engine running turn the steering wheel left to the stop point then back to the right stop point. Do this a few times and recheck fluid level and look for any accumulation of air bubbles. If there are no air bubbles after doing this four or five cycles, then the system is free of air. Hope this can help you some. Also make sure you used the correct fluid as I know if some of the Jeep Grand Cherokees they have a hydraulic power steering system which uses a special fluid. I was able to find that AMS oil had such fluid. Check the service manual for specification on the fluid requirements.

Cheers,
Alex
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by spllbnd2
No dumb questions imo. No you do not have to lift the front tires, unless you wish to. And yes, leave the car stationary with engine running turn the steering wheel left to the stop point then back to the right stop point. Do this a few times and recheck fluid level and look for any accumulation of air bubbles. If there are no air bubbles after doing this four or five cycles, then the system is free of air. Hope this can help you some. Also make sure you used the correct fluid as I know if some of the Jeep Grand Cherokees they have a hydraulic power steering system which uses a special fluid. I was able to find that AMS oil had such fluid. Check the service manual for specification on the fluid requirements.

Cheers,
Alex
I did purchase the correct fluid and I could swear there was improvement, but it's not 100%.

I just did what you described in my garage. Then, I pulled my car out slowly and drove it VERY slowly in my neighborhood, pulling into and out of parking stalls-all with the cap off. No change.

I just called the corvette shop that has done work for me in the past and have an appointment for the 23rd. I'm hoping it's just a sensor, wire or fluid change. But I'm mentally prepared to replace the steering rack.

The local dealership wont return my e-mails. (Only would have gone to them because they are close)

The alignment shop I have used before, wants $2,400 to replace a steering rack.

My hope is that since I will be going to a corvette shop that if it is some other small issue, they can find it easier than another shop that works on other makes and models.

Any other thoughts are appreciated.

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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 91LSMAN
I did purchase the correct fluid and I could swear there was improvement, but it's not 100%.

I just did what you described in my garage. Then, I pulled my car out slowly and drove it VERY slowly in my neighborhood, pulling into and out of parking stalls-all with the cap off. No change.

I just called the corvette shop that has done work for me in the past and have an appointment for the 23rd. I'm hoping it's just a sensor, wire or fluid change. But I'm mentally prepared to replace the steering rack.

The local dealership wont return my e-mails. (Only would have gone to them because they are close)

The alignment shop I have used before, wants $2,400 to replace a steering rack.

My hope is that since I will be going to a corvette shop that if it is some other small issue, they can find it easier than another shop that works on other makes and models.

Any other thoughts are appreciated.
Here's the bleed procedure from the shop manual.

Bleeding the Power Steering System

-Tools RequiredImportant: Hoses touching the frame, body, or engine may cause system noise.
  1. Verify that the hoses do not touch any other part of the vehicle.
Important: Loose connections may not leak, but could allow air into the steering system.
  1. Verify that all hose connections are tight.
Notice: If the power steering system has been serviced, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained unless air is bled from the steering system. The air in the fluid may cause pump cavitation noise and may cause pump damage over a period of time.

Important: Maintain the fluid level throughout the bleed procedure.
  1. Remove the pump reservoir cap.
Important: Use clean, new power steering fluid only.
  1. Fill the pump reservoir with fluid to the FULL COLD level.
  1. Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
  2. Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
  3. Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (inch Hg.) maximum.
  4. Wait 5 minutes. Typical vacuum drop is 7 - 10 kPa (2 - 3 inch Hg) . If the vacuum does not remain steady, refer to Excessive Vacuum Drop Diagnosis.
  5. Remove the J 43455 and the J 35555.
  6. Reinstall the pump reservoir cap.
  7. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.
  8. Turn off the engine.
  9. Verify the fluid level. Repeat steps 11-13 until the fluid stabilizes.
Important: Do not turn steering wheel to lock.
  1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.
  2. Turn the steering wheel 180 - 360 degrees in both directions 5 times.
  3. Switch the ignition off.
Notice: When adding fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper power steering fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid will cause hose and seal damage and fluid leaks.
  1. Verify the fluid level.
  1. Remove the pump reservoir cap.
  2. Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
  3. Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
  4. Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (inch Hg.) maximum .
  5. Wait 5 minutes.
  6. Remove the J 43485 and the J 35555.
  7. Verify the fluid level.
  8. Reinstall the pump reservoir cap.

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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 08:32 PM
  #27  
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Some troublesooting...

Excessive Vacuum Drop Diagnosis
  1. If the vacuum continues to drop, remove the pressure and return hose from the pump.
  2. Install the plugs (1,2) supplied with the J43485 into the pressure and return port.
  3. Attach the J 43485 to the J 35555 or equivalent.
  4. Place the J 43485 on or in the pump reservoir filler neck.
  5. Apply a vacuum of 68 kPa (20 inch Hg.) maximum.
  6. If the vacuum drops again, repair or replace the pump. If the vacuum holds steady, continue to check the other parts of the steering system.
  7. Important: Fluid must be free from bubbles and foam. Be aware of periodic bubbles that indicate a loose connection or leaking O-ring seal in the return hose or the pressure hose.

    Fluid must be free from discoloration.

  8. Observe the fluid.
  9. If condition persists, replace the following parts:
  10.  
    • The return hose clamps
    • The return hose O-rings
    • The pressure hose O-rings
    • The gear cylinder line O-rings
    • The reservoir to pump O-ring
  11. Repeat the bleed procedure from the beginning.
  12. Drive the vehicle approximately 16 km (10 mi.) in order to warm the system to operating temperature. Evaluate vehicle on a smooth flat surface.
  13. Verify the following conditions:
  14.  
    • There is smooth power assist.
    • The vehicle operates quietly.
    • The pump maintains the proper fluid level.
    • There is not any leaking in the steering system.
    • The fluid is free of foam or discoloration.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 08:45 PM
  #28  
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Book time to R&R with transfer of parts for a steering gear is 2.6 hours, plus you should figure one hour diagnostic time and an alignment on top of the time to replace the unit.

To properly diagnosis the steering system there is a special tool necessary other then the Tech 2. The steps below outline the proper steering diagnosis steps. Hope all this helps some.





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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 09:32 PM
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Hopefully that information could help somebody in the future, because I would not ever want to try that myself.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 09:44 PM
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No worries and yes hopefully it can help someone in the future.

Most of the vehicles these days need someone who has special training in diganostics and how to use the test equipment. I worked at dealerships until moving into aviation.
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 07:57 PM
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I have an update. My car is at Corvettes of Auburn and the diagnosis is......new steering rack. I had them do brakes and an oil change and the steering rack has been ordered. I plan to pickup the car and take it back when the rack arrives.

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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 10:40 PM
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New Update; Steering rack has been replaced and the problem seems to be taken care of. It pays to shop around. One shop that quoted me by e-mail said about $2,400 parts and labor.

Corvettes of Auburn-I paid about $1824.00-but that included an oil change and installing brake rotors, pads and SS lines that I provided (stoptech parts).
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 08:48 AM
  #33  
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We like happy endings. Glad it all worked out.
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 91LSMAN
New Update; Steering rack has been replaced and the problem seems to be taken care of. It pays to shop around. One shop that quoted me by e-mail said about $2,400 parts and labor.

Corvettes of Auburn-I paid about $1824.00-but that included an oil change and installing brake rotors, pads and SS lines that I provided (stoptech parts).
Reviving an old thread...

My car is doing the exact thing you are describing yours did. May I ask what steering rack you ended up going with ?
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by andyc5
Reviving an old thread...

My car is doing the exact thing you are describing yours did. May I ask what steering rack you ended up going with ?
No worries. Here is another thread about the ordeal I went through:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ring-rack.html

Basically it took two tries. Any steering rack you buy is going to be rebuilt, not new. The one I bought on e-bay through corvettemods is the one that worked.
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by andyc5
Reviving an old thread...

My car is doing the exact thing you are describing yours did. May I ask what steering rack you ended up going with ?
Get one from these guys https://www.turnone-steering.com/ most auto parts store rebuilts are hit or miss
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