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This evening in a parking garage it felt like I had lost power steering at low speeds-and this was a TIGHT garage-a guy had to back out of my way so I could get around a corner.
I had remembered reading information about the magnasteer system that our cars have and found an old thread that describes exactly what happened:
Being that this above linked thread is from 2016 I was wondering if anybody had any other information. I found the article linked in that thread very helpful.
Is a new steering rack the only solution? Could a shop do this in 1 days time?
Since magnasteer essentially helps at low speeds, I guess for now, I just need to drive faster at all time.
Have you tried pulling the codes with the engine running? Codes are known to disappear when the engine is cycled off then the ignition switch cycled to ON to pull codes.
To pull codes with the engine running you must use the RESET button to clear any messages displayed in the DIC and then pull codes as normal.
I didn't know you could pull the codes with the engine running. I will try that in a bit.
In reality though, heavy steering at low speeds-could it be anything else?
There is a difference between the 2000 and earlier cars and the 2001-2004 cars. Which do you have?
This is what Magnasteer does:
The variable effort steering (VES) system uses the electronic brake control module (EBCM) to control current to a bi-directional electromagnetic rotary actuator. The EBCM commands current from negative 2 amps to positive 3 amps to the actuator. At low speeds, a negative current is commanded, which assists steering. At medium speeds, no current is commanded and steering is assisted by hydraulics only. At high speeds, a positive current is commanded, which creates steering resistance.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Jul 8, 2018 at 07:36 PM.
There is a difference between the 2000 and earlier cars and the 2001-2004 cars. Which do you have?
This is what Magnasteer does:
The variable effort steering (VES) system uses the electronic brake control module (EBCM) to control current to a bi-directional electromagnetic rotary actuator. The EBCM commands current from negative 2 amps to positive 3 amps to the actuator. At low speeds, a negative current is commanded, which assists steering. At medium speeds, no current is commanded and steering is assisted by hydraulics only. At high speeds, a positive current is commanded, which creates steering resistance.
Bill
2002
Each time I read what magnasteer does, it sounds like that is the issue.
Have you tried pulling the codes with the engine running? Codes are known to disappear when the engine is cycled off then the ignition switch cycled to ON to pull codes.
To pull codes with the engine running you must use the RESET button to clear any messages displayed in the DIC and then pull codes as normal.
Ok-I just pulled the codes with the engine running and had no codes.
Next post will have photos I just took using a flashlight and my phone-only so much I can see, but the leaf spring looks OK from this angle...
Each time I read what magnasteer does, it sounds like that is the issue.
Attached you will find the diagnostic for DTC 1241 which is the only DTC for the variable effort steering.
Some of the steps won't be possible without a Tech 2 but others can probably be done if you are good with an ohm meter/DVM.
Attached you will find the diagnostic for DTC 1241 which is the only DTC for the variable effort steering.
Some of the steps won't be possible without a Tech 2 but others can probably be done if you are good with an ohm meter/DVM.
Bill
While I appreciate the information (have not read it yet) that sounds like a bit more than I can do. (While I have used an ohm meter, it's been years)
While I appreciate the information (have not read it yet) that sounds like a bit more than I can do. (While I have used an ohm meter, it's been years)
A lot of times resistance checks are just short/open checks and if your ohm meter is part of a DVM you may need to check some voltage levels. Your problem could be as simple as the harness from the EBCM to the PS Rack being uplugged from the rack. That happens when somebody who doesn't know what they are doing works on the car.
One symptom of a bad power steering rack is changing of steering effort while turning around a corner. One instant the steering wheel will be very easy to turn and the next instant it will feel like you need arms 30 inches around to turn the wheel. It will go back and forth like that. Sometimes there are leaks through some of the joints in the rack, at the seals at the end of the rack, etc. If the power steering pump has failed you will also have very stiff steering. If you don't have any power steering fluid in the reservoir at the front of the engine then you could have a leak from the rack or the pump. If the pump seal fails it will usually all gush out at one time dumping fluid into the left front wheel well, under the left side of the car and will leave an oily residue on the back side of the rear fascia. You can see the rear seal of the PS Pump by pulling the left front wheel an looking at it through the wheel well.
A lot of times resistance checks are just short/open checks and if your ohm meter is part of a DVM you may need to check some voltage levels. Your problem could be as simple as the harness from the EBCM to the PS Rack being uplugged from the rack. That happens when somebody who doesn't know what they are doing works on the car.
One symptom of a bad power steering rack is changing of steering effort while turning around a corner. One instant the steering wheel will be very easy to turn and the next instant it will feel like you need arms 30 inches around to turn the wheel. It will go back and forth like that. Sometimes there are leaks through some of the joints in the rack, at the seals at the end of the rack, etc. If the power steering pump has failed you will also have very stiff steering. If you don't have any power steering fluid in the reservoir at the front of the engine then you could have a leak from the rack or the pump. If the pump seal fails it will usually all gush out at one time dumping fluid into the left front wheel well, under the left side of the car and will leave an oily residue on the back side of the rear fascia. You can see the rear seal of the PS Pump by pulling the left front wheel an looking at it through the wheel well.
Bill
The info about changing steering effort-the way you describe it-that's exactly what it felt like yesterday while moving cards around.
I have not found any fluid in my garage. (Of course, the day it happened, there could have been fluid in the parking garage-never got a chance to check that, since I was leaving and not thinking about that)
I am waiting to hear back from two shops. I'd prefer a shop with alignment capabilities so it can be aligned at the same time since I have not had an alignment in a while.
Before I left this evening, I looked at the power steering fluid. As you can see from the photos....does this look low? I'm not sure how full this should be. I have never had any fluid anywhere, but perhaps it's only leaking when the wheels are turned. This could be a small leak I have had for years-potentially. Thoughts? I've never purchased power steering fluid. Can I just go to the auto parts store and buy it? We might be at the limit of my technical knowledge. THANK YOU
My car is an 04 but the PS tank looks the same as in your picture. My tank has a cap with a measuring stick on the end.
The ADD is the bottom of the stick and that distance is approximately 2 3/8" from the sealing surface of the cap. The full COLD is approximately 1 7/8" from the sealing surface. The full HOT is approximately 1 3/8" from the sealing surface.
Measure down from the top edge of the tank where the cap would seal on the top of the tank to the top surface of the fluid and compare that distance to the above numbers.
As far as what PS fluid to buy you can use the GM Part Number 89021184 and look at the label on the PS fluids at the parts store and find one that references that PN. I use Valvoline PS fluid in mine which references that GM part number. Or if you can find AC Delco PS Fluid with that part number use it if you have to have GM badged products in your car.
I saw the indicator on the cap, and it was dry. When adding PS fluid, can I just pour it in? Nothing special to do?
Engine OFF and pour a little in and measure where you are at. Fill to the correct mark on the stick on the cap depending on car hot or cold. A little less than either the hot or cold mark is fine.
Thanks. I should be able to do that tomorrow evening. I've never added power steering fluid in the almost 11 years I have owned the car. Would be great if this magically fixed the problem. LOL
I was really paying attention this evening and the stiff steering always happened at very low speed, when turning the wheel right-not left.
OK-I went and bought the power steering fluid. I added fluid and kept measuring, using the cap. I had to add fluid before I could see any on the cap, so it was low.
I went for a short drive and wasn't sure if I could feel improvement-I thought I did, but then it got heavy again.
Does the fluid take time to circulate? Are the caps vented? Wouldn't the fluid I added have to replace air in the system?
If your ps fluid was low you should fill it a bit then perform a bleed cycle by turning the steering wheel left and right to the stops with the engine running. As for hard steering still being an issue, I would look at the steering rack. But before that I would check the steering input sensors that allow the active steering to perform correctly. Ohm meter and checking the sensors along with pcm output voltage to the sensor most likely. But I would first refer to the shop manual for the steering electrical diagnosis .