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I just bought a 99 C5 with 32000 miles. The Clutch peddle of the car intermittently stays all the way to the floor. If I pull it back up it works for a wile but eventually sticks to the floor again.
I had the same problem, did a bunch of reading, started a thread to try to figure out exactly what's going on, wasn't satisfied with the answers, decided to replace the master and slave cylinders, throw-out bearing, and the clutch all at once, and add a remote slave bleeder too. (And a pilot bearing, because it'll never be easier to replace. And check the torque tube bearings and couplers whlie everything is apart.) The clutch just arrived, installation is in two weeks.
Here's that thread - I added some links to other threads that shed some light on the problem:
As far as I can tell, the one thing that consistently fixes it is replacing the OEM clutch for an aftermarket clutch. Apparently, pretty much any aftermarket clutch will solve the problem. And as long as the drivetrain is coming out for a clutch swap, I figure I might as well replace everydamnthing else too.
As far as I can tell, the one thing that consistently fixes it is replacing the OEM clutch for an aftermarket clutch. Apparently, pretty much any aftermarket clutch will solve the problem. And as long as the drivetrain is coming out for a clutch swap, I figure I might as well replace everydamnthing else too.
How do you know that a new OEM clutch wouldn't also solve the problem? Or that it's not just the PB/TOB/MC/SC that are the real solution to the problem?
How do you know that a new OEM clutch wouldn't also solve the problem? Or that it's not just the PB/TOB/MC/SC that are the real solution to the problem?
If it only cost $20 to swap each part (or heck, $50) then I'd probably swap parts one at a time. But replacing most of those parts (other than the MC) require dropping the drivetrain, so trying one at a time could be a very long / expensive / time-consuming proposition. (Which is probably why the problem is still so poorly understood.)
Also, I want to drive this car, not troubleshoot it work on it. I bought it for track days, and I've had my fill of wrenching on cars in the pits, so I'm doing all of the preventative maintenance that I can think of.
That said, replacing the master cylinder as a first step is not a bad idea. It's one of the least expensive things you can try, after removing the pedal spring of course.