Please help with codes on new car-Having buyers remorse
07-18-2018, 11:10 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Please help with codes on new car-Having buyers remorse
I'm new to the forum and a new owner of a 02 coupe 6sp with 75k. I purchased it from a private owner two days ago and upon final sale, i asked if I could take it to a dealership for a 3rd party unbiased diagnostic/multipoint inspection. About an hour later I was advised it was about a quart low on oil(which i knew since the low oil light was on), and needed 3 tires(which I also knew. I asked the service manager to pull the codes and do a full detail inspection and he came back with "no codes" and the car looks good for a 02. I took their recommendation of an oil change and I was on my way with the car purchase. About 10 miles into the trip the "service vehicle soon" light comes on along with the traction control light stayed on steady. I also heard a new "chirping" sound that I did not hear the previous 2 days of test driving the vehicle.
I pulled the codes from the DIC and here is what I found: (I have also started the vehicle approx 4-5 times since the initially code, and today the dash is not reading "service vehicle soon". Unfortunately the "chirping" is still apparent and have come to the conclusion that is seems to be the harmonic balancer. I hope thats it though, fingers crossed.
28-TCS C1287H
28-TCS 1288H
99-HVAC B0361 HC
AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LDCM B2286 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM B2262H
AO-LDCM B2264 H
AO-LDCM U1064 H
AO-LDCM U1016 H
A1-RDCM B2284 H
A1-RDCM B2287 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A!-RDCM U1016 H
I pulled the codes from the DIC and here is what I found: (I have also started the vehicle approx 4-5 times since the initially code, and today the dash is not reading "service vehicle soon". Unfortunately the "chirping" is still apparent and have come to the conclusion that is seems to be the harmonic balancer. I hope thats it though, fingers crossed.
28-TCS C1287H
28-TCS 1288H
99-HVAC B0361 HC
AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LDCM B2286 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM B2262H
AO-LDCM B2264 H
AO-LDCM U1064 H
AO-LDCM U1016 H
A1-RDCM B2284 H
A1-RDCM B2287 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A!-RDCM U1016 H
07-19-2018, 08:46 AM
#2
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Codes C1287 and C1288 are Steering Wheel Position Sensor codes. Failure of the SWPS is a pretty common C5 issue. Part is under $100 and about 3 hours labor at a Stealership to remove the steering wheel to replace the SWPS since it is located on the floor surrounding the steering column. Not a big item except that is DOES cause both Traction Control and Active Handling to be disabled and appropriate lights illuminated on the dash and error messages to be displayed in the DIC.
Those LDCM and RDCM (left door control module and right door control module) codes are commonly associated with a battery issue. Either the battery is low or has been recently been disconnected/re-connected. When that happens the cables typically cannot be held in constant contact with the battery post while the cable retaining bolts are threaded in and tightened. This causes make and break electrical contact which causes the sensors for the doors to go a bit bat chit and set all sorts of codes.
Check to insure that all the battery connections (battery cables at the battery, at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes) are clean and tight. Then insure that the battery is FULLY charged. I would also have the battery load tested. A battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more when using a digital multi meter directly across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Also a battery load test cannot be successfully done on a partially run down battery.
Once you have a know good battery and connections, clear the codes and then take the car for a nice ride. When you return pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the RESET button to clear any messages in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal.
I would expect the LDCM and RDCM codes will NOT return but the SWPS codes likely will.
Post back your results please......
Chirping sound could be as simple as a bad serp belt or a bad pulley or it could be caused because the harmonic balancer is going bad. Need to carefully investigate that to find the cause..... I would not jump to any conclusions until you do the investigation..... JMHO
Those LDCM and RDCM (left door control module and right door control module) codes are commonly associated with a battery issue. Either the battery is low or has been recently been disconnected/re-connected. When that happens the cables typically cannot be held in constant contact with the battery post while the cable retaining bolts are threaded in and tightened. This causes make and break electrical contact which causes the sensors for the doors to go a bit bat chit and set all sorts of codes.
Check to insure that all the battery connections (battery cables at the battery, at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes) are clean and tight. Then insure that the battery is FULLY charged. I would also have the battery load tested. A battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more when using a digital multi meter directly across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Also a battery load test cannot be successfully done on a partially run down battery.
Once you have a know good battery and connections, clear the codes and then take the car for a nice ride. When you return pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the RESET button to clear any messages in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal.
I would expect the LDCM and RDCM codes will NOT return but the SWPS codes likely will.
Post back your results please......
Chirping sound could be as simple as a bad serp belt or a bad pulley or it could be caused because the harmonic balancer is going bad. Need to carefully investigate that to find the cause..... I would not jump to any conclusions until you do the investigation..... JMHO
Thanks for the response. I forgot to mention. The battery was recently replaced, due to a grounding issue. This was resolved at a dealership. So this could be the reason why there is stored history of all the "B" codes.
That being said you advise that I reset the DIC and then see what codes I throw?
07-19-2018, 09:01 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
If it were me I'd check all ground connections first, as there was a known issue.
07-19-2018, 09:21 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
I had a chirp as well. I removed the AC belt and ran the car and the chirp disappeared. I replaced both the idler and tensior and belt. All under $100. Like 8VETTE7 said, don't jump to conclusions on the HB. Your codes seem like they are more intimidating than they are serious. I've found that these cars, while they have plenty of little quirks about them, are fairly easy to work on. The Forum will give you all the insight and guidance needed to fix virtually any issue that may pop up.
07-20-2018, 09:51 AM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I had a chirp as well. I removed the AC belt and ran the car and the chirp disappeared. I replaced both the idler and tensior and belt. All under $100. Like 8VETTE7 said, don't jump to conclusions on the HB. Your codes seem like they are more intimidating than they are serious. I've found that these cars, while they have plenty of little quirks about them, are fairly easy to work on. The Forum will give you all the insight and guidance needed to fix virtually any issue that may pop up.
07-20-2018, 10:23 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
The B0361 is probably the one I'd be most concerned about, as it has a C (current) vs. H (historical). It's likely your drivers side AC blend door actuator gone on the fritz (gear inside breaks). If you're a contortionist you can supposedly get at it from under the steering wheel. The rest of us have to remove the dash pad. It's not really that hard.
07-20-2018, 03:40 PM
#7
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
Codes C1287 and C1288 are Steering Wheel Position Sensor codes. Failure of the SWPS is a pretty common C5 issue. Part is under $100 and about 3 hours labor at a Stealership to remove the steering wheel to replace the SWPS since it is located on the floor surrounding the steering column. Not a big item except that is DOES cause both Traction Control and Active Handling to be disabled and appropriate lights illuminated on the dash and error messages to be displayed in the DIC.
Those LDCM and RDCM (left door control module and right door control module) codes are commonly associated with a battery issue. Either the battery is low or has been recently been disconnected/re-connected. When that happens the cables typically cannot be held in constant contact with the battery post while the cable retaining bolts are threaded in and tightened. This causes make and break electrical contact which causes the sensors for the doors to go a bit bat chit and set all sorts of codes.
Check to insure that all the battery connections (battery cables at the battery, at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes) are clean and tight. Then insure that the battery is FULLY charged. I would also have the battery load tested. A battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more when using a digital multi meter directly across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Also a battery load test cannot be successfully done on a partially run down battery.
Once you have a know good battery and connections, clear the codes and then take the car for a nice ride. When you return pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the RESET button to clear any messages in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal.
I would expect the LDCM and RDCM codes will NOT return but the SWPS codes likely will.
Post back your results please......
Chirping sound could be as simple as a bad serp belt or a bad pulley or it could be caused because the harmonic balancer is going bad. Need to carefully investigate that to find the cause..... I would not jump to any conclusions until you do the investigation..... JMHO
Those LDCM and RDCM (left door control module and right door control module) codes are commonly associated with a battery issue. Either the battery is low or has been recently been disconnected/re-connected. When that happens the cables typically cannot be held in constant contact with the battery post while the cable retaining bolts are threaded in and tightened. This causes make and break electrical contact which causes the sensors for the doors to go a bit bat chit and set all sorts of codes.
Check to insure that all the battery connections (battery cables at the battery, at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes) are clean and tight. Then insure that the battery is FULLY charged. I would also have the battery load tested. A battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more when using a digital multi meter directly across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Also a battery load test cannot be successfully done on a partially run down battery.
Once you have a know good battery and connections, clear the codes and then take the car for a nice ride. When you return pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you need to use the RESET button to clear any messages in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal.
I would expect the LDCM and RDCM codes will NOT return but the SWPS codes likely will.
Post back your results please......
Chirping sound could be as simple as a bad serp belt or a bad pulley or it could be caused because the harmonic balancer is going bad. Need to carefully investigate that to find the cause..... I would not jump to any conclusions until you do the investigation..... JMHO
I too immediately suspected a battery issue with all the Body Module DTCs listed.ALWAYS clear the DTCs and then see what comes back. Work on a fresh list.
BC
07-20-2018, 03:49 PM
#8
Safety Car
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The B0361 is probably the one I'd be most concerned about, as it has a C (current) vs. H (historical). It's likely your drivers side AC blend door actuator gone on the fritz (gear inside breaks). If you're a contortionist you can supposedly get at it from under the steering wheel. The rest of us have to remove the dash pad. It's not really that hard.