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o2 catless header installation?

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Old Aug 12, 2018 | 05:27 PM
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Default o2 catless header installation?

So this is my first real post on here so hopefully I'm posting in right place. I'm finally doing some minor bolt on stuff to my 02 c5z06 and I am in the process of installing a set of xs power catless headers. For the most part its fairly straight forward, but not any instructions came with these things. I have removed the factory manifolds and h pipe. I'm going back in and just thinking what do i do with the old sensors? The headers and x-pipe have plugs in them, but are threaded for the o2 sensors. So do I screw them back in to the new pipe or do i disconnect them from the wiring harness and leave the plugs in the pipes? Last set of headers and xpipes i installed was probably 15 years ago on a mustang gt and i bought some adapters with a resister in the end to trick the computer and there were no threaded holes in the system. My guess is to pull the plugs in the bungs and thread in the old o2s and hook back up. The car is going straight to get dyno tuned after I get these and the vararam intake installed, so they will take care of the emissions stuff when they tune it. Thanks in advance!
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Old Aug 12, 2018 | 06:50 PM
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Yes you need to install the O2's into the new headers.
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Old Aug 12, 2018 | 07:50 PM
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There are 4 02 sensors total; two between the engine and the cats, two after the cats. You absolutely need to install the 2 sensors into your headers that were between the engine and the cats from the stock exhaust. The car will not run without these. Since you have no cats in the new exhaust, you can either remove the two after the cats and zip tie the engine harness wires out of the way. You may have to do this anyway if the new headers and exhaust don't have bungs for them. If there are bungs for these, I would just install them. When you get tuned, the turner will turn off the rear two O2 sensors so that the car won't throw a code.
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Old Aug 12, 2018 | 07:53 PM
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Thanks chris308 thats what i figured. These XS powers have been a complete pain in the *** too. Spent the last 2 hours just trying to get the passenger side in. After jacking the engine and pulling the valve cover i realized they were not going in from the top then went back to the bottom again. My son showed up finally and with him on top pulling and me on bottom twisting and pushing and communication we got it in finally! So learned a lesson today, which is these can't be installed without another set of hands
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 07:03 AM
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I believe I had the same trouble installing my TSP headers. Drivers side went in no problem on top and the passenger side, we had to loosen a motor mount and all kinds of other crap.
Glad you finally got em on!!

Should sound nice and pick up some oomph after a good tune....
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Well I spoke too soon. Drivers side is worse. I gave up for the night plus i ran out of beer! I've pulled steering shaft, valve cover, alternator, every wire that is in the area, jacked the motor as high as possible. Going to pull oil filter and adapter give it another shot tonight. If that don't work I may have to try and shift the motor over to the passenger side and lift it. Thinking the extra $$$ for the Kooks or American Racing may have been worth the money if they are truly that much easier to go in. Ill get it in eventually.....
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 01:34 PM
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OMG. I just did a review of Speed Engineering headers. Had zero fitment issues. Both sides went in from the bottom.
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Robrote
OMG. I just did a review of Speed Engineering headers. Had zero fitment issues. Both sides went in from the bottom.
I actually read that earlier to see if you did something I was missing. You done way less than me so far. Wondering if there is an installation difference between the z vs base?
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Sturgeon

I actually read that earlier to see if you did something I was missing. You done way less than me so far. Wondering if there is an installation difference between the z vs base?
I can't see why. But maybe there is. I did nothing, no motor jacking, no steering shaft issues. I did have to take my starter off and put it up with the header, but that was it. Again, mine only went in from the bottom. I did remove the coil packs and alternator, but quite honestly, I don't think I needed to. Good luck man. Sounds like you're into thick.
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by chris308
I believe I had the same trouble installing my TSP headers. Drivers side went in no problem on top and the passenger side, we had to loosen a motor mount and all kinds of other crap.
Glad you finally got em on!!

Should sound nice and pick up some oomph after a good tune....
Strange... my TSP DS went in from the bottom with car being 27-28" from the ground, up top would have been harder. PS pretty much dropped in, no starter moving, nothing.
After reading many TSP & XSP header install reviews, the biggest concern is consistency IMO.
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 03:41 PM
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If I could do it all over again I would have skipped on the TSP headers tbh... plus I don't like how their coating is not holding up well...
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 01:13 PM
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Got the DS in last night. Removed oil filter and pressure sending unit and was able to get it in from the bottom. PS went in from bottom as well. After looking at where the headers end at looks like dropping the bell housing is not gonna happen with out removing the headers.....glad i will be having a shop install the new clutch when it comes time. I have decent clearance on DS, but PS is very close to ac line going to the receiver dryer, but i knew that was going to be an issue from my research. Going to wrap some thermal tape around the ac line and put a thermal jacket on my starter as well. Hopefully the end result will be worth the work, which overall wasn't terrible once I figured out how to get the headers to pass all the obstacles.
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Glad you got it! I put a little wrap on my AC line and Starter as well. It couldn't hurt. I also wrapped the connectors for the O2s as much as I could.
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