measuring clutchwear
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 10
measuring clutchwear
Is there a way to measure the state of the clutch without removing it? Why I ask is that I have a supercharger kit on a stock LS1 / stock clutch. I have driven it 3-4000 miles now with no issues (I never launch the car), but eventually it will give in and if I could check it now and then I could change it with something more heavy duty before it gives up....
Last edited by CorvetteC5Norway; Aug 24, 2018 at 09:59 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
LMAO! I went from a WHIMPY 390 RWHP on my 02 ZO6 to a measly 450 RWHP and at the 450 RWHP level the stock ZO6 Clutch was NOT happy. It immediately started to stick to the floor between shifts. The clutch disk was NOT worn out and the pressure plate was not burnt. It just stuck to the floor between shifts. Most likely a hydraulic system failure more than a clutch failure.
SO, You having a stock LS-1 clutch, I can assure you that it will NOT be happy under any hard launching (regardless of mileage or wear). Just understand that your stock clutch will need to be replaced with something that will handle the additional TORQUE that your forced induction engine will feed it!
I went with a TICK Master, new GM Slave, SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, New GM pilot bearing, new GM throw out bearing and a remote bleeder..
Several aftermarket companies make a better GM Slave Cylinder center cylinder that the throw-out bearing rides on.. The OEM one is plastic and can melt. The aftermarket is machined aluminum.
There is NO WAY to really check out the condition of the flywheel, pressure plate and disk with out system removal. You can measure the disk AIR GAP if you remove the bell housing lower inspection cover.
Bill
SO, You having a stock LS-1 clutch, I can assure you that it will NOT be happy under any hard launching (regardless of mileage or wear). Just understand that your stock clutch will need to be replaced with something that will handle the additional TORQUE that your forced induction engine will feed it!
I went with a TICK Master, new GM Slave, SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, New GM pilot bearing, new GM throw out bearing and a remote bleeder..
Several aftermarket companies make a better GM Slave Cylinder center cylinder that the throw-out bearing rides on.. The OEM one is plastic and can melt. The aftermarket is machined aluminum.
There is NO WAY to really check out the condition of the flywheel, pressure plate and disk with out system removal. You can measure the disk AIR GAP if you remove the bell housing lower inspection cover.
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 10
LMAO! I went from a WHIMPY 390 RWHP on my 02 ZO6 to a measly 450 RWHP and at the 450 RWHP level the stock ZO6 Clutch was NOT happy. It immediately started to stick to the floor between shifts. The clutch disk was NOT worn out and the pressure plate was not burnt. It just stuck to the floor between shifts. Most likely a hydraulic system failure more than a clutch failure.
SO, You having a stock LS-1 clutch, I can assure you that it will NOT be happy under any hard launching (regardless of mileage or wear). Just understand that your stock clutch will need to be replaced with something that will handle the additional TORQUE that your forced induction engine will feed it!
I went with a TICK Master, new GM Slave, SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, New GM pilot bearing, new GM throw out bearing and a remote bleeder..
Several aftermarket companies make a better GM Slave Cylinder center cylinder that the throw-out bearing rides on.. The OEM one is plastic and can melt. The aftermarket is machined aluminum.
There is NO WAY to really check out the condition of the flywheel, pressure plate and disk with out system removal. You can measure the disk AIR GAP if you remove the bell housing lower inspection cover.
Bill
SO, You having a stock LS-1 clutch, I can assure you that it will NOT be happy under any hard launching (regardless of mileage or wear). Just understand that your stock clutch will need to be replaced with something that will handle the additional TORQUE that your forced induction engine will feed it!
I went with a TICK Master, new GM Slave, SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, New GM pilot bearing, new GM throw out bearing and a remote bleeder..
Several aftermarket companies make a better GM Slave Cylinder center cylinder that the throw-out bearing rides on.. The OEM one is plastic and can melt. The aftermarket is machined aluminum.
There is NO WAY to really check out the condition of the flywheel, pressure plate and disk with out system removal. You can measure the disk AIR GAP if you remove the bell housing lower inspection cover.
Bill
I know I'm on borrowed time, but I've also read in here about some that have survived with stock clutch for several 1000 miles. A clutch change is easily 2000 $, so if I can push it forward...
I'm just below 500 whp and above 450 wtq, so no crazy power...
