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Or am I an idiot? Started getting a bad misfire tonight. I swapped two new 02s, checked plugs for cracked, even peaked at the springs(BTR dual), all injectors ohmed around 14.4. Only thew a pending code for B2s1 slow, and flashing random mis CEL for about 60 seconds and went away with no set codes so I put the new o2s in, no change. Watch my video below to see(easy on me fells Im no certified tech, but have auto knowledge) and I'm baffled to think I found 3 bad wires? After racking my brain, I said these were GM hot wires, which obviously they are not, these are Hinson wires, about 2 years old.
Hope this is all it is and she is back to running tip top tomorrow!
Hey Joepro !!...Sorry to hear about your misfire issues. Did you R&R your O2 sensors just because of P0133 I'm assuming ??...FTI, just because you have an O2 DTC doesn't always mean it a O2 sensor change !!...well, if you still have this issue let us know...do you have a scan tool that can graph O2 sensor waveforms ??...that would help a lot in the diag...and also look at fuel trims...we would still have to look at the ignition system and also fuel delivery AND mechanical (compression)...diagnosing misfires can sometimes be challenging and sometimes not !!....basically this is how I approach misfires.... 1) battery and charging system health and check coolant level...car has more than 1/4 tank of gas. 2) pull codes...current and history...check misfire counters and freeze frame data. 3) Check O2 sensor and fuel trim data. 4) quick 5 minute "relative compression" with scope...if you don't have a scope you can do compression test and hook up a vacuum gauge if you have one...I'll sometimes do a fast "clear flood crank" and listen to any inconsistencies in cranking speed. 5) ignition system...check ignition primary/secondary circuit with scope...if you don't have a scope check for strong spark at each cylinder...swap wires, plugs, coils to isolate...6) fuel delivery...check fuel pressure at idle and "snap throttle"...pressure should not drop...check power and control at injector. With 12 volt test light the same color wires (pink) at each injector is power...look for system voltage...now hook test light to battery positive...with key "on" test light connected to other wire should come on indicating inj. control at PCM (control wire is ground side switched)...I'll connect low AMP clamp around a "fuse buddy" at injector fuse 1&2 and check injector waveforms...4 injectors waveforms at each fuse...if no scope listen for injector firing at each injector with long screwdriver...don't use stethoscope...too sensitive and might pick up sound from adjacent injector. 6) cam/crank correlation with scope comparing to good waveform....no way to accomplish this check without a DSO. Well that's about it !!...GOOD LUCK !!
Well, at a minimum, you have bad plug wires. I recommend getting a set of the GM RED Performance wires. They usually ohm out around 300-320 ohms. There good quality wires and not that expensive.
I ordered a new set last night, will be here tomorrow. Just hoping that is all it is! I do need to invest in a better scanner anyway,just have a $20 code reader, this may be the excuse, but hopefully, if I buy one I don't need it after I put the new wires on!
Last edited by Joepro95; Aug 28, 2018 at 12:32 PM.
I ordered a new set last night, will be here tomorrow. Just hoping that is all it is! I do need to invest in a better scanner anyway,just have a $20 code reader, this may be the excuse, but hopefully, if I buy one I don't need it after I put the new wires on!
For $99.95 this Bluetooth scanner competes with scan tools costing a few hundred dollars. I keep mine plugged into my daily driver.
You don't even need to spend that much on a Bluetooth dongle! Can get them for under $15 on Amazon and them use the Torque Pro app ($19.95) on your phone.
You can even find Bluetooth dongles for under $10 if you look on EBay.
You don't even need to spend that much on a Bluetooth dongle! Can get them for under $15 on Amazon and them use the Torque Pro app ($19.95) on your phone.
You can even find Bluetooth dongles for under $10 if you look on EBay.
You don't even need to spend that much on a Bluetooth dongle! Can get them for under $15 on Amazon and them use the Torque Pro app ($19.95) on your phone.
You can even find Bluetooth dongles for under $10 if you look on EBay.
I believe it is.....check the Apple store. I use an android phone. There are many apps that can be used with a
Bluetooth OBD2 Dongle. Some are free and others are not.
I believe it is.....check the Apple store. I use an android phone. There are many apps that can be used with a
Bluetooth OBD2 Dongle. Some are free and others are not.
Ok....my point was you don't need to spend $100 on a Bluetooth dongle. There are OBD2 apps that
work on an I phone. In all honesty the OP should get his DIC buttons fixed
Ok....my point was you don't need to spend $100 on a Bluetooth dongle. There are OBD2 apps that
work on an I phone. In all honesty the OP should get his DIC buttons fixed
Point well taken...I guess it just comes down to how much the OP wants to spend and his needs !!
DIC buttons are 100 bucks from vettenuts, might be a winter project. It's only the fuel button that doesn't work, hasn't bothered me over the past year enough to care vs the PIA to pull the cluster(yes I have before). A quality scan tool will be useful in more than one application, so it's a worthwhile investment either way.
I have both android and iphone...not an issue, I prefer android however.
Last edited by Joepro95; Aug 28, 2018 at 02:50 PM.
Or am I an idiot? Started getting a bad misfire tonight. I swapped two new 02s, checked plugs for cracked, even peaked at the springs(BTR dual), all injectors ohmed around 14.4. Only thew a pending code for B2s1 slow, and flashing random mis CEL for about 60 seconds and went away with no set codes so I put the new o2s in, no change. Watch my video below to see(easy on me fells Im no certified tech, but have auto knowledge) and I'm baffled to think I found 3 bad wires? After racking my brain, I said these were GM hot wires, which obviously they are not, these are Hinson wires, about 2 years old.
Hope this is all it is and she is back to running tip top tomorrow!
I don't like the look of those spark plug boots. The spark plug wires do not have either of the correct OEM Packard Delphi spark boots used on the LS sets.
Once you get the GM Performance Red wires make sure to use the correct set of OEM metal heat shields over the spark plug boots or at least a set of those fiberglass heat socks to help protect the spark plug boots from getting fried.
I don't like the look of those spark plug boots. The spark plug wires do not have either of the correct OEM Packard Delphi spark boots used on the LS sets.
Once you get the GM Performance Red wires make sure to use the correct set of OEM metal heat shields over the spark plug boots or at least a set of those fiberglass heat socks to help protect the spark plug boots from getting fried.
The wires do have fiberglass sleeves on them. I scowered my parts collection, I had 6 old gm red wires, one xact and used one of these good hinson ones, I couldn't wait till tomorrow. Preliminary drive felt good, no bad miss in 6th or on a 3rd gear pull...new set of GM reds coming tomorrow. I tend to over complicate things for sure, just my nature I guess. the o2s were probably original so no harm in changing those.
car feels a little sluggish but it is 95 degrees out and humid as heck, I would hate to see the iats today!
these were two years old but man did they fail...I bought a bunch of stuff from hinsion, mounts the sleeves and they had tr55s and these wires as a kit...lesson learned.