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2003 Z06 will not start

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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 04:13 PM
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Default 2003 Z06 will not start

Hello, I need help. I have exhausted all my knowledge and research. My car will not start.

I have replaced the BCM and the Theft Deterrent Relay. I have attempted to program the BCM but the Security light will not flash no matter what I do with the key in the On position. The code showing the BCM has learned (P1630H) has not appeared.

Here are the codes I currently have and the list I have of codes does not include these except B2723 HC which is the Pass Key Detection Circuit. I don't know what the other codes are for.
B2647 H C
B2723 H C
B2809 H C
B0026 H C

I am able to get the car to crank but not start by jumping the purple and red wire of the Theft Deterrent Relay.

I have checked all these fuses for power. Under hood: ENG IGN 1 fuse #19; INJR 2 fuse #18; THROTCONT Fuse #17; INJR 2 fuse #22; PCM fuse #16; F/PMP fuse #13. In car fuses: BTSI BU #21; BCM 13 #22; IPC fuse #19. All fuses have voltage and all fuses are good.

Is it possible I have a bad Ignition switch?

Quite frustrated. Can anyone help me?

Thanks,

Shawn

Last edited by 911AXER; Sep 12, 2018 at 04:16 PM. Reason: TYPOS
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 911AXER
Hello, I need help. I have exhausted all my knowledge and research. My car will not start.

I have replaced the BCM and the Theft Deterrent Relay. I have attempted to program the BCM but the Security light will not flash no matter what I do with the key in the On position. The code showing the BCM has learned (P1630H) has not appeared.

Here are the codes I currently have and the list I have of codes does not include these except B2723 HC which is the Pass Key Detection Circuit. I don't know what the other codes are for.
B2647 H C - Ambient Light Sensor Circuit Low
B2723 H C - PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2809 H C - Something to do with the Telescoping Column?
B0026 H C - Left Front/Driver Frontal Deployment Loop (Stage 1) Circuit

I am able to get the car to crank but not start by jumping the purple and red wire of the Theft Deterrent Relay.

I have checked all these fuses for power. Under hood: ENG IGN 1 fuse #19; INJR 2 fuse #18; THROTCONT Fuse #17; INJR 2 fuse #22; PCM fuse #16; F/PMP fuse #13. In car fuses: BTSI BU #21; BCM 13 #22; IPC fuse #19. All fuses have voltage and all fuses are good.

Is it possible I have a bad Ignition switch?

Quite frustrated. Can anyone help me?

Thanks,

Shawn
This is what I found here...

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GUSTO14
This is what I found here...

Good luck... GUSTO
Thank you GUSTO. Not sure it helps but I'll go to the manual for the code troubleshooting. I will probably just get the new ignition switch. A real sumper!
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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What was the reason for the BCM replacement?
Did you go through the procedure of syncing the security code between the BCM and PCM. There is a procedure for this that can be found on the forum. With out doing this sync the BCM and PCM will not talk to each other to start the engine.

Here is a link to the relearn procedure, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-program.html.

Gary
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 01:44 PM
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If the BCM and PCM will not sync, you may have one or more of the following issues:

You are not getting proper power to the BCM or PCM. Did you read BOTH of the test slots on top of each fuse to chassis ground?
The serial data buss is being corrupted. Do you see any NO COMMS messages on the DIC when you pull up the DTCs?
You are NOT conducting the BCM PCM Sync procedure correctly.

If you have a pass key fault, no matter what you do, it is not going to start. You MUST SOLVE THAT ISSUE FIRST!! Are you able to see the proper resistance of the key (in the ignition switch) at the wires on the connectors at the BCM?????????

The BCM Connector C1 will have that measurement (resistance) on pins B2 (purple/white stripe & A3 (white/black stripe) Read the resistance of the chip in the key and see if it matches on connector C1.

Bill
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If the BCM and PCM will not sync, you may have one or more of the following issues:

You are not getting proper power to the BCM or PCM. Did you read BOTH of the test slots on top of each fuse to chassis ground?
The serial data buss is being corrupted. Do you see any NO COMMS messages on the DIC when you pull up the DTCs?
You are NOT conducting the BCM PCM Sync procedure correctly.

If you have a pass key fault, no matter what you do, it is not going to start. You MUST SOLVE THAT ISSUE FIRST!! Are you able to see the proper resistance of the key (in the ignition switch) at the wires on the connectors at the BCM?????????

The BCM Connector C1 will have that measurement (resistance) on pins B2 (purple/white stripe & A3 (white/black stripe) Read the resistance of the chip in the key and see if it matches on connector C1.

Bill
Thank you Bill. I am down to a single code B2723 HC Pass Key Detection Circuit. BTW, I did go through the programming on my spare BCM with no results. I put my original BCM back in and will try to read the resistance on connector C1. I also changed the electronic part of the ignition switch to no avail. After all of this troubleshooting I sure hope you are right.

Thanks again. Shawn
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 911AXER
Thank you Bill. I am down to a single code B2723 HC Pass Key Detection Circuit. BTW, I did go through the programming on my spare BCM with no results. I put my original BCM back in and will try to read the resistance on connector C1. I also changed the electronic part of the ignition switch to no avail. After all of this troubleshooting I sure hope you are right.

Thanks again. Shawn
Bill, I just checked the resistance between the key resistor feed and return as you suggested. I did this with the power off (battery disconnected) and got NO Reading at all. Both of my keys have the same resistance (2360 ohms) .
Am I doing this right with power off?

Thanks again,

Shawn

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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 911AXER
Bill, I just checked the resistance between the key resistor feed and return as you suggested. I did this with the power off (battery disconnected) and got NO Reading at all. Both of my keys have the same resistance (2360 ohms) .
Am I doing this right with power off?

Thanks again,

Shawn
If you did NOT see the key resistance at those wires, there is a break or issue at the key sensor or in the wiring from the sensor to the BCM Connector.

If you disconnect the key sensor connector from the car main harness under the steering column, can you see the key chip resistance on the two sensor connector pins???

Bill
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If you did NOT see the key resistance at those wires, there is a break or issue at the key sensor or in the wiring from the sensor to the BCM Connector.

If you disconnect the key sensor connector from the car main harness under the steering column, can you see the key chip resistance on the two sensor connector pins???

Bill
Thanks Bill but you just flew over my head. Is the "key Sensor connector" one of the two connectors on the ignition switch? Or are you referring to another connector? And how will I know what are the two sensor connector pins??? Sorry for being an "amateur" and I do appreciate your help. Seems like we're getting there.

Shawn


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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If you did NOT see the key resistance at those wires, there is a break or issue at the key sensor or in the wiring from the sensor to the BCM Connector.

If you disconnect the key sensor connector from the car main harness under the steering column, can you see the key chip resistance on the two sensor connector pins???

Bill
Thanks Bill but you just flew over my head. Is the "key Sensor connector" one of the two connectors on the ignition switch? Or are you referring to another connector? And how will I know what are the two sensor connector pins??? Sorry for being an "amateur" and I do appreciate your help. Seems like we're getting there.
Also can I check continuity from the switch connector to the BCM connector using the two wires(resistance feed and return) you mentioned before?


Shawn

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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 07:11 PM
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On the end of the ignition switch cylinder is a metal can. It has a TWO WIRE pig tail harness on it. That is the sensor wire.. It connects into a similar under the steering column. You can disconnect that connector and read the two pins with an ohm meter. Insert the key ito the switch and read the connector. Should see the same resistance.

Bill
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
On the end of the ignition switch cylinder is a metal can. It has a TWO WIRE pig tail harness on it. That is the sensor wire.. It connects into a similar under the steering column. You can disconnect that connector and read the two pins with an ohm meter. Insert the key ito the switch and read the connector. Should see the same resistance.

Bill
Thanks Bill, this is the connector I think you are referring to. I checked both the male end and the female end. No resistance on either with the key in any position. Does this mean the cylinder is bad?
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 911AXER



Thanks Bill, this is the connector I think you are referring to. I checked both the male end and the female end. No resistance on either with the key in any position. Does this mean the cylinder is bad?
YES! The wire sometimes breaks right at the sensor.or just inside the plastic housing. Remove the key cylinder, take the can off the end and inspect for broken wires.

BC
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
YES! The wire sometimes breaks right at the sensor.or just inside the plastic housing. Remove the key cylinder, take the can off the end and inspect for broken wires.

BC
Hi Bill,
Well it turned out to be a broken wire in the lock cylinder after all. I purchased a new lock cylinder (AC Delco) and had it keyed to my old keys. I looked at the old cylinder and, honestly, was afraid to try to fix the tiny wire break. The total with the lock cylinder and the locksmith was about $100 and after two weeks of troubleshooting the VATS system I learned a ton. Much of it thanks to you and your past posts and current help. Bill, I owe you a big thanks for your help keeping me sane with this one. I am an old aircraft electronics tech and your knowledge and help was invaluable to me. I honestly thought this would be fairly easy to troubleshoot but it was quite tricky. I could not have done it without you. Many thanks!
Shawn (AXER911)
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
YES! The wire sometimes breaks right at the sensor.or just inside the plastic housing. Remove the key cylinder, take the can off the end and inspect for broken wires.

BC
Bill, I sent you a PM on a related topic if you get a chance to respond.

Thanks, GUSTO

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