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Blisters on the insulator tip, melted electrodes, or white deposits are signs of a burned spark plug that is running too hot. Causes can include the engine overheating, incorrect spark plug heat range, a loose spark plug, incorrect ignition timing or too lean of an air/fuel mixture. The spark plug should be replaced.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
install a wideband but that will only show the afr for the bank it's installed on, it won't narrow down specific cylinders... were all of your plugs this way?
install a wideband but that will only show the afr for the bank it's installed on, it won't narrow down specific cylinders... were all of your plugs this way?
Irridium plugs are just a way to get more of your money with absolutlley no benefit
All thsese new metal plugs are just a hoax---If you talk to Nascar teams they use simple copper core plugs no matter what they advertize on their car---A copper core plug gets rid of heat far better than any other plug--Yes these new metal plugs may last longer but they are not the best choice for removing heat from your plug tip---In my 40 plus years of racing experience the bet plug you can buy is the NGK and on a C5 LS1 it would be a TR55 plug gapped at .040 NOT .060 as GM previously reccomended
The NGK plug with it;s cadium metal is the easiest plug to read if you know how to read plugs "old school" Typically you read timimg by how far up the strap the color change occurs--Ideally with new plugs or NGK plugs you would want the color change to be on the BEND of the strap--If the change is further towards the tip-- you need more timing--If the color change is towards the threads-- you have too much timing-----This is old school timing rules that are relevant even on a LS engine
As far as AFR goes you want the color on the center porcelain to be only about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch off the bottom center electrode--- If the color is beyond that it is too rich and vice versa
Irridium plugs are just a way to get more of your money with absolutlley no benefit
All thsese new metal plugs are just a hoax---If you talk to Nascar teams they use simple copper core plugs no matter what they advertize on their car---A copper core plug gets rid of heat far better than any other plug--Yes these new metal plugs may last longer but they are not the best choice for removing heat from your plug tip---In my 40 plus years of racing experience the bet plug you can buy is the NGK and on a C5 LS1 it would be a TR55 plug gapped at .040 NOT .060 as GM previously reccomended
The NGK plug with it;s cadium metal is the easiest plug to read if you know how to read plugs "old school" Typically you read timimg by how far up the strap the color change occurs--Ideally with new plugs or NGK plugs you would want the color change to be on the BEND of the strap--If the change is further towards the tip-- you need more timing--If the color change is towards the threads-- you have too much timing-----This is old school timing rules that are relevant even on a LS engine
As far as AFR goes you want the color on the center porcelain to be only about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch off the bottom center electrode--- If the color is beyond that it is too rich and vice versa
Yes, Copper is what I use on my HI performance race apps... BUT , most people aren't going to change plugs every year or so...
Many C5 owners are just now replacing 14-20 year old plugs..
The Irridiums ARE better than platinum.. Finer wire for better flame kernal, etc...
I see your point, but in many situations it is just not practical.
Yes, Copper is what I use on my HI performance race apps... BUT , most people aren't going to change plugs every year or so...
Many C5 owners are just now replacing 14-20 year old plugs..
The Irridiums ARE better than platinum.. Finer wire for better flame kernal, etc...
I see your point, but in many situations it is just not practical.
I understand there may be different opinions and yes you may get 10 + years out of a platinum plug however my experience is that IF you have not removed your plugs in 10 years 50% of the time the plugs get carbon welded into the threads and you either break them or strip the threads in your heads when you evensually try and replace them -----Plugs are Now you have a huge costly repair--Plugs are cheap re;palce them every 30L miles with TR-55's and they will always come out without damage
I understand there may be different opinions and yes you may get 10 + years out of a platinum plug however my experience is that IF you have not removed your plugs in 10 years 50% of the time the plugs get carbon welded into the threads and you either break them or strip the threads in your heads when you evensually try and replace them -----Plugs are Now you have a huge costly repair--Plugs are cheap re;palce them every 30L miles with TR-55's and they will always come out without damage
Hi,
I have a 2013 c6z and just bought tr55's. Should I go with .040 and check them in a few thousand miles?
I looked all over (under) the hood & I also looked in every page of the owners manual. Cannot find anywhere the gm spec. for plug or gap.
WTH?
What about an older car with low miles? My '03 only has 27K on the clock? Do I change my plugs by miles, or years?
Absollutely !! If you can even get them out now without breaking them or stripping the plug threads in your heads-------Age and mileage have the same aging affect on plugs Get some new TR55 plugs gap them at .040 and you'll be great for 30K more miles or maybe 5 years on the clock---
On an 03 I would also change the plug wires to at least the GM performance red wires---They get old as well with a 10 year life span and plugs and wires are CHEAP maintenance
09-14-2018, 11:45 PM
Spark Plugs
