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hey guys, 2003 Zo6 here won’t shift into first gear upon start up, however does get into gear if turned off. I have a tick installed, other wise everything is stock. I was thinking maybe I let air in the system when I did my last fluid change from the reservoir, but I’m not sure. I think it may also just be that the shifter may need a rebuild but I’m no tech. Any help or insight would be very helpful here.
One last note, the car will shift into gear once it’s warmed up a bit and I start the car in first gear to get it going. The clutch pedal does seem about 1/2”-1” too low (might be in my head) and the pedal throw feels shorter and less springy. I don’t drive the car that often anymore so I’m going off memory.
Your clutch seems like it is NOT fully disengaging. The VERY FIRST thing that I would do is properly bleed the slave / master. Then properly adjust the clutch peddle throw.
Jack the rear of the car off the ground. Start the engine and have someone sit in the drivers seat, car in gear, clutch fully depressed. See if the rear wheel stop driving. A cold drivetrain will get some wheel spin BUT,,,,, you SHOULD be able to stop the drive by hand/foot.
If the wheels are being positively driven when the clutch is depressed, INCREASE the length of the adjuster rod on the clutch peddle a little at a time until the wheels STOP driving with the peddle fully depressed. I continue to lengthen mine about a 1/4 turn past that point to insure I have positive disengagement when the peddle is fully depressed.
Thank you for the lightening fast response! One other note if it helps, if I attempt to put the car in gear, it won’t shift into gear but the car will move slowly forward.
Your clutch seems like it is NOT fully disengaging. The VERY FIRST thing that I would do is properly bleed the slave / master. Then properly adjust the clutch peddle throw.
Jack the rear of the car off the ground. Start the engine and have someone sit in the drivers seat, car in gear, clutch fully depressed. See if the rear wheel stop driving. A cold drivetrain will get some wheel spin BUT,,,,, you SHOULD be able to stop the drive by hand/foot.
If the wheels are being positively driven when the clutch is depressed, INCREASE the length of the adjuster rod on the clutch peddle a little at a time until the wheels STOP driving with the peddle fully depressed. I continue to lengthen mine about a 1/4 turn past that point to insure I have positive disengagement when the peddle is fully depressed.
Bill
Bill, why would the clutch peddle all of a sudden needing adjustment? Is it clutch wear? If you have to do the adjustment often, is it time for a clutch replacement?
Bill, why would the clutch peddle all of a sudden needing adjustment? Is it clutch wear? If you have to do the adjustment often, is it time for a clutch replacement?
Thanks for your insight.
IMHO,,, Its most likely a combo of needing bleeding AND the adjustment is not quite right (needing some more throw on the master cyl) Give it a bleed and see if that puts you back where you were and then see what the adjustment is doing.
Thanks Bill, Again I appreciate the help greatly. I have only driven with it twice for short periods trying to figure out what the issue was. Unfortunately I’ll have to drive it once more to get it bled because I don’t have the time or experience to do it myself at this time. I will update this thread once I can get it over to a mechanic.