I am about to install a tick clutch master cylinder buy I do not have a remote bleeder valve.
Do I just fill the reservoir and press the ball on the tick line until the fluid comes out then connect to the slave cylinder?..
Also how do i know how many threads to turn?...thanks in advance!

 

 

You are correct that you can gravity bleed the master cylinder prior to connecting to the slave.

As for the adjustment, this is what I found from a TICK document:

​​​​​Since you increase the amount of fluid the system flows by setting the clutch pedal higher,
adjustment will begin from the shortest setting possible. The pedal will appear to be about halfway down
when compared to its location with the factory cylinder installed. Adjust the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn
increments to lengthen the rod (be sure that the rod coming out of the master cylinder itself isn’t spinning).
After each adjustment, start the car in neutral and attempt to shift into first gear. If it doesn’t go into gear
smoothly, don’t force it (you’ll risk damaging your transmission’s fork pads and/or synchronizers). Simply
continue to lengthen the rod until the transmission will slide into first gear smoothly while stopped. At this
point, test drive the car to fine tune the adjustment to get the necessary release for higher RPM shifting.
DO NOT OVERADJUST THE ROD, or adjust it based on pedal height. If you adjust it to position the
pedal at the factory height, you risk over-extending (thus damaging) the pressure plate.

To take this a couple steps further, once you think you're adjusted properly go to a parking lot. While stopped, put the trans in first gear. While continuing to hold the clutch pedal to the floor, run the RPMs up to 4000. The car should not roll if the master cylinder is adjusted properly. OR Jack the rear of the car off the ground, start engine and put trans in first gear. The wheels should not turn or just turn lightly enough that you can stop the motion with your hand or foot. Make certain whoever is holding the clutch pedal does not release it if you're reaching to stop the wheel motion! Do this at your own risk.

 

To give you an idea of approximate height, my TICK is about an inch above the dead pedal that is to the left.

 

I do the same adjustment on jack stands. Just keep adjusting the rod length (longer) until the rear wheels NO LONGER DRIVE when the clutch is fully depressed. Make sure that you do this on a fully warmed up engine. When its cold it will have a tendency to drive the wheels a little even when the clutch is fully depressed and properly adjusted due to the pilot bearing drag.

Once you reach the point that the rear wheels don't DRIVE when the clutch is fully depressed, you can lengthen the rod about 1/4"- 1/2" turn more to positively disengage the disk. Like 3sacrowd stated,,, DO NOT over lengthen the adjustment rod!!!

You can bleed the tic master by depressing that metal disk in the center of the fitting.

BC