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I hate 1st gear lockout on the c5. I've been living with it for a little over a year. I've driven other c5s and they're all the same. It really interferes with normal driving; things like pulling up to an intersection and the light turns green or you need to turn R....I want to be in first gear without fully stopping or necessarily having to keep my foot on the clutch and staying in gear. I dont care that I could do it in 2nd, I want 1st. My viper has 1st lockout (Same tranny) but is not so interfering. I understand the purpose of 1st lockout, but have driven older cars without one and have never had an accident. Can it be removed?
Maybe it's just me, but I have no idea what you are talking about -- I shift into first often as I slow to a stop. 1st to 4th when I screw up leaving a stop, sure, but no 1st lock-out that I've ever noticed.
Do you mean the 1-4 shift (and light on the dash)??
If so, ou ware looking for a neat device called the CAGS eliminator.
it plugs into the transmission an defeats the lockout, (but the dash light will still illuminate.)
last I checked, about 20$ most vendors. Some are just a plugin, others include a blank plug to reconnect to the main harness.
cheap and relatively easy to install
if thats not what you mean and you literally cannot shift into first, then I think you may have a linkage or shifter that needs to be adjusted (or either the master / slave cyl. Have issues)
I've been able to shift into 1st as high as 25 mph, which IMO is much faster than you need in normal city traffic. Typically anything faster than 15 and I'm in second or third.
Maybe it's just me, but I have no idea what you are talking about -- I shift into first often as I slow to a stop. 1st to 4th when I screw up leaving a stop, sure, but no 1st lock-out that I've ever noticed.
I don't think you're experiencing a 1st gear lock out because there isn't one. What you're probably experiencing is the big 1st gear issue a lot of C5s have, including mine periodically as I have a 99 model. The 1st gear in the C5's T56 is known to have issues with the blocker ring. The blocker ring is the part between the synchronizer and the gear cone. Basically when the synchronizer is engages it pushes the blocker ring against the cone and that acts as a "clutch" of sorts to try and match speed prior to the synchronizer itself engaging the gear.
1997-2000 models have a paper blocker - yes, it's paper. 2001 onwards use a carbon blocker. I checked your profile and you own a 1998 model M6 so you would be seeing a lot of issues 1997-2000 owners see. It *can* show up in 2001 onward cars as well but it's not as prominent.
I was thinking the same thing... There is NO first gear lock out. Either you are experiencing a trans mechanical issue or you may be experiencing a shift linkage issue.
The shift box on our cars does wear out. It gets VERY sloppy and can bind up.. There is a forum member here that does a fantastic job rebuilding the shift box. He installs bearings for the box fork vs the bushing that are prone to wearing out.
I'll look into it. It just seemed like a lockout to me. It will always go into gear fine if I'm perfectly stopped. Hopefully an adjustment or rebuild can fix it though. It's driving me nuts! Thanks for the advice guys! I've been on here a while, but haven't needed to post as I can usually find anything I need with a search. I guess there's a reason no one else mentioned 1st lockout...there isn't one.
Maybe your clutch isn't fully disengaging. Try this:
Jack BOTH rear wheels off the ground a few inches. Chock the front wheels. Have someone Start the engine, put the car in any gear,(first works well) fully depress the clutch! See if the rear wheels STOP DRIVING. They may rotate BUT, they should NOT DRIVE with the clutch fully depressed. You should easily be able to stop the wheels from turning by hand if the clutch is fully releasing from the pressure plate and flywheel.
IF you can NOT stop the rear wheel from turning by hand, THERES YOUR ISSUE!
Give that a look see and let us know what you observe..
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 16, 2018 at 06:18 PM.
Maybe your clutch isn't fully disengaging. Try this:
Jack BOTH rear wheels off the ground a few inches. Chock the front wheels. Have someone Start the engine, put the car in any gear,(first works well) fully depress the clutch! See if the rear wheels STOP DRIVING. They may rotate BUT, they should NOT DRIVE with the clutch fully depressed. You should easily be able to stop the wheels from turning by hand if the clutch is fully releasing from the pressure plate and flywheel.
IF you can NOT stop the rear wheel from turning by hand, THERES YOUR ISSUE!
Give that a look see and let us know what you observe..
Bill
That's it! It's not fully releasing every time. When I bought the car I bought it knowing it needed a new clutch. So the first week I had it and I had a new clutch putin and had them install a remote bleeder and new master and slave. It must be something with their install or faulty parts. Any thoughts on what next? I drove my buddies C5 also this week. His feels kind of like mine, but it's more just a hard notch that you can push through it hard into forst anytime you want.
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might be worth checking the shifter alignment... what kind of clutch?... it's also possible you might need an adjutable master cylinder to get it to work properly
If I was a gambling man I would bet that whoever installed your clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder did not measure and install the correct amount of shims needed on the throwout bearing, which is causing your problem.
Some excellent information and recommendations in the several post above.
Try a full bleed on the system and see if that helps. Then see if you have a Tick Adjustable master. If you don't, you can try to install a new OEM master. If that doesn't work, install a Tick Master.
If that doesn't work, you most likely need a shim between the slave and the TT.
The more you drive it when its not working properly, the more you screw up the synchros and blockers.