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What do you think this is?

Old 11-19-2018, 08:58 AM
  #1  
am3gross
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Default What do you think this is?

Battery or Alternator or fill in the blank!

on my way to work this morning driving, about 30 MPH car straight dies... i coast mostly into the gas station, and i mean it really stopped in the middle of a 4 lane road top.. i get out and push this relatively light vehicle with all my might into a parking spot.. car starts, i do get a low voltage light, however when i stick it in 1st and apply gas it will sputter as if its not getting any fuel and then die... the lights do dim when i put the key in and turn to accessories.. i feel it is the alternator, mostly because it died while driving. i know with any kind of issue the 1st thing is to check the battery. i will be getting a tow truck to return my prize possession to the house.tell me your thoughts!!!!


thanks mike
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:03 AM
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Well if the car dies suddenly and you were able to to start it again money is on the ignition switch !!….common not only with Corvettes but many other GM products...I'd also get your battery load tested....check the battery charging voltage also...see what you have !!

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Old 11-19-2018, 11:14 AM
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would the ignition switch allow me to start and stay running, and as soon as i press the gas pedal cause it to sputter and die? i will do more research on the ignition switch. i will aslo be pulling the alternator and the battery and having both tested.
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:22 PM
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When my alternator went in another car, the battery was dead and wouldn't restart because once the alternator goes you are running off the battery drawing it down. If it restarts, I wouldn't immediately think alternator. What does the DIC say you have for voltage with the car not running and then running?
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:52 PM
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First things first, after the car starts check the voltage at the battery that will tell you if the alternator is charging you should see 14 volts. If you suspect the ignition switch you can check the fuse panel in the passengers footwell to see if the switch contacts are toast, you will not see battery voltage (12V) on fuse Fuse 21 &22 and under the hood fuses, 18, 19, 22, 16, & 13 if proper voltages are present the electrical systems is good.

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Old 11-19-2018, 12:59 PM
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THANKS EVERYONE!!!

I am currently at work so i can not really get to far into what is wrong, Tow truck will be here in a few to take the Vette and me home. i will get more into it once i get there. i will keep everyone posted i am sure with lots of questions.
again thank you to everyone for the replys!


Mike
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:19 PM
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The starting circuit and the fuel pump are fed off 2 different "busses". The IGN1 (fuse 47) which is fed from the ignition switch out of the PINK wire feeds the fuel pump (fuse 13). The IGN2 (fuse 50) which is fed from the ignition switch YELLOW wire feeds the starting circuit control side. Today is my Corvette "play day" so I did a quick voltage drop check across my ignition switch to the fuel pump with the car running... I had .15v voltage drop...when you get the battery back in turn the key on and see if you hear the fuel pump prime...it's only 2 seconds so keep your ears open. You can get free wiring diagrams here !!

http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:58 PM
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Ok I am at the car now waiting for the tow truck, when I stick the key in I get a low voltage, charge system fault. My gage reads zero. I cant tell if i hear the fuel pump prime or not to be honest, busy road and i am old. I did get the car to start once but now it just turns over and nothing. I checked my connections at the battery and at the alternator and all is tight. I will get further into it once I get home and have access to the tools in garage.

thanks mike
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Old 11-19-2018, 02:31 PM
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Mike, before you start it like I said listen for that pump prime....then quickly cycle the key on and off a bunch of times and then try to start it...that's how I got mine to start...I KNEW my battery and starting circuit was fine...I also got low voltage on the DIC...no big deal...and make sure that battery is up to there snuff young fella !!
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:14 PM
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UPDATE....


battery and alternator is good. i will say that i tried to listen for the fuel pump and i can not hear it. i am old.. helicopters have taken there toll on my hearing.


now...

if i cycle the switch like stated above then i can get the car to start. i did pull codes and these are the codes i got. also while the cycling was happening the cluster and lights went crazy.. flasshind and all.. looking like it was having a seizure.. if i tried starting during the seizure it would not start. if i got all the dash lights to come on steady it would start.

pcm- p1518 H C
pcm- p 0654 H

tcs c1278 H C


going to research these codes.


thanks for the help fellas, i feel like i am heading down the right track.. currently anyways.
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by am3gross View Post
UPDATE....


battery and alternator is good. i will say that i tried to listen for the fuel pump and i can not hear it. i am old.. helicopters have taken there toll on my hearing.


now...

if i cycle the switch like stated above then i can get the car to start. i did pull codes and these are the codes i got. also while the cycling was happening the cluster and lights went crazy.. flasshind and all.. looking like it was having a seizure.. if i tried starting during the seizure it would not start. if i got all the dash lights to come on steady it would start.

pcm- p1518 H C
pcm- p 0654 H

tcs c1278 H C


going to research these codes.


thanks for the help fellas, i feel like i am heading down the right track.. currently anyways.
I also had a P1518 when I was having issues with my ignition switch....it set because battery voltage was low through the switch in my case or maybe in your case if it is low through the ignition switch also...when you turn on the ignition the TAC module is powered up BEFORE the PCM.... the PCM can't communicate with the TAC module so BOOM...1518 !!….wouldn't worry about the 1278 right now.

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Old 11-19-2018, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rwobs777 View Post
I also had a P1518 when I was having issues with my ignition switch....it set because battery voltage was low through the switch in my case or maybe in your case if it is low through the ignition switch also...when you turn on the ignition the TAC module is powered up BEFORE the PCM.... the PCM can't communicate with the TAC module so BOOM...1518 !!.wouldn't worry about the 1278 right now.

so with my issues would you say the 1st step is to start with the ignition switch?
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by am3gross View Post
so with my issues would you say the 1st step is to start with the ignition switch?
With the car shutting down and the P1518 the switch would be the first thing to test...I would certainly test the switch while starting or remove the ignition switch and check resistance with an ohmmeter...even checking for voltage drop between the IGN 2 (fuse 50) and the CRK fuse (14) while trying to start the car...are you good at using a DVOM ??...I wished I never cycled that switch a bunch of times and finally get it to crank consistently...could not duplicate the no start after that....would have been nice to troubleshoot !!
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rwobs777 View Post
With the car shutting down and the P1518 the switch would be the first thing to test...I would certainly test the switch while starting or remove the ignition switch and check resistance with an ohmmeter...even checking for voltage drop between the IGN 2 (fuse 50) and the CRK fuse (14) while trying to start the car...are you good at using a DVOM ??...I wished I never cycled that switch a bunch of times and finally get it to crank consistently...could not duplicate the no start after that....would have been nice to troubleshoot !!

am i good at using a DVOM? i dont even know what the hell a DVOM is! LOL! so with that being said, i pulled the string an had to order the switch. reason for the quick pulling of the switch is because if i didn't order today i would not get it before thanksgiving, which means it would be harder for me to install if i have to wait past Thanksgiving due to my work schedule. really hoping this will take care of the issue, after talking with you, reading thru some of the other posts, which you have been a big part of, and alot of the symptons being the same i pulled the trigger.

with all that being said, i will change the part out tomorrow and will report back. either way if it works or not, i want to thank you for all your help, it is really appreciated! now to go look up what a DVOM is!

thanks

Mike
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Old 11-19-2018, 09:00 PM
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If you need the switch R&R I can take some pictures of my FSM (Factory Service Manual) and email it to you if needed...a pretty easy job...sorry to hear about your hearing...I was a jet engine mechanic for almost 20 years (before the quiet engines) before I started working for the airlines and thankfully I only lost a little on the higher frequencies...the only thing I hear now are a bunch of whiney mechanics...LOL !!...oh, a DVOM is a digital volt ohm meter...a multimeter !!...did you order a OEM switch...AC Delco ???

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Old 11-19-2018, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rwobs777 View Post
If you need the switch R&R I can take some pictures of my FSM (Factory Service Manual) and email it to you if needed...a pretty easy job...sorry to hear about your hearing...I was a jet engine mechanic for almost 20 years (before the quiet engines) before I started working for the airlines and thankfully I only lost a little on the higher frequencies...the only thing I hear now are a bunch of whiney mechanics...LOL !!...oh, a DVOM is a digital volt ohm meter...a multimeter !!...did you order a OEM switch...AC Delco ???
i should be good on the R/R, i have had my dash apart a few times, with the flasher switch, and the HVAC controls, and the short throw shifter... i am getting proficient at taking it apart..

i was trying to order the OEM however it would not be in till the 27th. also the OEM only had a 2 year warranty where the BDW had a limited lifetime warranty. meaning i can get 1 free replacement during my lifetime... (even if that is not much longer!) it was also a little cheaper. but i still wanted the OEM but timelines are playing a role in this adventure.

i hear the same winey mechs... they are just younger and lazier now. at 40 i will still work circles around them!

i actually dug the multimeter out of my box this afternoon after work, just to find that the battery was removed and probably used as in a nerf gun that my son robbed my of.. i will get a battery for it tomorrow just in case it is needed, weather or not i am good at it is another story, we will see!
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by am3gross View Post
i should be good on the R/R, i have had my dash apart a few times, with the flasher switch, and the HVAC controls, and the short throw shifter... i am getting proficient at taking it apart..

i was trying to order the OEM however it would not be in till the 27th. also the OEM only had a 2 year warranty where the BDW had a limited lifetime warranty. meaning i can get 1 free replacement during my lifetime... (even if that is not much longer!) it was also a little cheaper. but i still wanted the OEM but timelines are playing a role in this adventure.

i hear the same winey mechs... they are just younger and lazier now. at 40 i will still work circles around them!

i actually dug the multimeter out of my box this afternoon after work, just to find that the battery was removed and probably used as in a nerf gun that my son robbed my of.. i will get a battery for it tomorrow just in case it is needed, weather or not i am good at it is another story, we will see!
Sounds GREAT !!...just a couple things on the install....note how the ignition switch lock cylinder wire is wrapped around the base of the switch bezel (pic included) and how to remove the lock cylinder...pic included...good luck and Happy Thanksgiving !!


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Old 11-20-2018, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by am3gross View Post
i should be good on the R/R, i have had my dash apart a few times, with the flasher switch, and the HVAC controls, and the short throw shifter... i am getting proficient at taking it apart..
I'm gonna go against the grain here, and tell you not to bother trying to repair/clean your existing ignition switch. That is unless you want to make it a yearly ritual. Once those contacts gets carbonized once, it'll just keep happening again and again. It's a < $100 part available at any parts house. Just slap in a new one and fahgettabouit.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx View Post
I'm gonna go against the grain here, and tell you not to bother trying to repair/clean your existing ignition switch. That is unless you want to make it a yearly ritual. Once those contacts gets carbonized once, it'll just keep happening again and again. It's a < $100 part available at any parts house. Just slap in a new one and fahgettabouit.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx View Post
I'm gonna go against the grain here, and tell you not to bother trying to repair/clean your existing ignition switch. That is unless you want to make it a yearly ritual. Once those contacts gets carbonized once, it'll just keep happening again and again. It's a < $100 part available at any parts house. Just slap in a new one and fahgettabouit.

i could not agree more here, which is why i ordered the part yesterday! it will be here this afternoon and i will attempt the install after work
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