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Im looking for some input on a spark plug and gapping. I’m looking at a NGK TR55 and TR6, I’m running a LS2 NA 402, 11.4 :1, healthy cam should be around 625 crank hp. Plan on running 93 octane, in Texas.
Im looking for some input on a spark plug and gapping. I’m looking at a NGK TR55 and TR6, I’m running a LS2 NA 402, 11.4 :1, healthy cam should be around 625 crank hp. Plan on running 93 octane, in Texas.
TR6. The TR55 is a hotter plug (1st 5) and the gap is large (2nd 5). The TR6 is one range colder (recommended by NGK for every 100 hp added over stock) with a smaller gap. I am running TR6 in my setup.
Last edited by vettenuts; Dec 8, 2018 at 03:46 PM.
Hi Rich:
Same as vettenuts, I use the TR6 in my head/cam/intake car (about the same CR as yours). Talking with a few performance engine builders in the area they also recommend the TR6 for modded LS engines.
Cheers, Larry
Edit: Noticed I forgot to address your question about gap. Currently running .040 which is the NGK out of the box setting, and also corresponds to GM's 40 setting for ACDelco plugs. I know some are experimenting with everything from .038-.045 but I'm good at 40, for now.
Also I use the GM spec 11 ft/lb torque.
Best wishes with your 402!
Last edited by Route99; Dec 9, 2018 at 07:55 PM.
Reason: Added comment
I have almost the exact same setup 4 squared chamber, Trickflows, big cam, high compression and other stuff. Went with TR55, but gap was too big. Car runs best at .038 to .040 and when narrowing the gap on TR55's, the electrode became shrouded. As mentioned, TR5 or TR6 works the best.
Now question for you, you able to get that monster to hook?
GM changed the reccomended plug gap on a LS engine from .060 to now ,040---So that is what we run them at--no issues
As far as TR55 vs TR6---- The TR6 is one heat range colder made to get rid of heat better at high RPM's--However IF your car is used on the street mostly The TR6 will have a tendency to foul---The hotter TR55 will clean up better and have a less tendancy to foul while normal street driving-----We only use TR6 plugs on boosted engines or on highly modded N/A engines that are ran typically over 5000 RPM's most of the time--
Im looking for some input on a spark plug and gapping. I’m looking at a NGK TR55 and TR6, I’m running a LS2 NA 402, 11.4 :1, healthy cam should be around 625 crank hp. Plan on running 93 octane, in Texas.
Thanks Rich
wow 600ish. Just my personal opinion you might be disappointed. If I remember correctly there was a member that build a 440 was only around high 600ish. Wow I would be surprise but you never know.
wow 600ish. Just my personal opinion you might be disappointed. If I remember correctly there was a member that build a 440 was only around high 600ish. Wow I would be surprise but you never know.
I would not be surprised. My build is very similar and the car has laid down well over 500 rwhp on a Mustang Dyno, that is known to be stingy (my stock z06 with Vararam, LTs and tune did 362 on the same dyno and conditions). This places the crank HP over 600. The nice part is over 500 rwtq from 3k rpm up. As mentioned above, the hard part is making the tires stick. The torque comes in hard and very fast!
I have almost the exact same setup 4 squared chamber, Trickflows, big cam, high compression and other stuff. Went with TR55, but gap was too big. Car runs best at .038 to .040 and when narrowing the gap on TR55's, the electrode became shrouded. As mentioned, TR5 or TR6 works the best.
Now question for you, you able to get that monster to hook?
just called NGK and they recommended a TR7ix part number 3690, I’ve not seen that one before.. haven’t broken it in yet and done final tune so no answer yet in Hookin..
just called NGK and they recommended a TR7ix part number 3690, I’ve not seen that one before.. haven’t broken it in yet and done final tune so no answer yet in Hookin..
Interesting. You using nitrous or forced induction? The TR6 works well for me and half the price. Good luck with everything and let me know how it drives. I am betting on lots of tire shredding!
Interesting. You using nitrous or forced induction? The TR6 works well for me and half the price. Good luck with everything and let me know how it drives. I am betting on lots of tire shredding!
no nitrous or FI, not going with tat plug they recommended, staying with copper.. guessing TR6 or 5, waiting to see what my tuner has to say..
I have used both. The TR5 is cleaner but the TR6 is more consistent. Good and bad either way. Since I use the car infrequently, leaned toward more consistency and just change out the plugs more often.
I would not be surprised. My build is very similar and the car has laid down well over 500 rwhp on a Mustang Dyno, that is known to be stingy (my stock z06 with Vararam, LTs and tune did 362 on the same dyno and conditions). This places the crank HP over 600. The nice part is over 500 rwtq from 3k rpm up. As mentioned above, the hard part is making the tires stick. The torque comes in hard and very fast!
Just some old school knowledge on how we used to read plugs however still relevant on todays computer controlled cars
To read the AFR ratio or fueling we would want the color on the center electrode to be about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the porcelain--and the color should be a tan/brownish color
As far as timing goes to read this correctly you must have a new set of plugs and run them at WOT for a few blasts and then shut it down----- On NGK plus you can eaisly read new plugs as the cadium plating burns off cleanly
Perfect timing would be when the "color change" occurs just at the bend of the strap--If the color change occurs further down towards the tip it does not have enough timing If the color change occurs further down towards the threads then you have Too much timing--
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fwiw I ran the tr6 up to around 800rw and they did fine but started giving me problems higher than that so I switched to br7ef's which are the same heat range as the tr7ix, I see no need to go to that heat range in your case
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