Torque Tube Upgrade ?????
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 788
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From: Olathe Kansas
Torque Tube Upgrade ?????
I am going to pull my diff, trans and Torque Tube due to some vibrations and leaking brake lines...
It's a 2000 Auto Vert
Is it worth upgrading the TT to the 12 mm version from my current 10 mm TT
Either way, I'm going to replace the couplers and possibly the bearings.
I have located a used 2001 TT from one of the vendors here, So I'd put in new 12 mm couplers anyway..
Thoughts ???
It's a 2000 Auto Vert
Is it worth upgrading the TT to the 12 mm version from my current 10 mm TT
Either way, I'm going to replace the couplers and possibly the bearings.
I have located a used 2001 TT from one of the vendors here, So I'd put in new 12 mm couplers anyway..
Thoughts ???
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2017
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While it’s apart, I’d definitely replace the couplers/bushings and bearings. A lot of folks seem to inspect and leave them if they’re “alright”, but why the heck would you take the risk if everything is all apart already?! 
a few hundred bucks and some added labor was worth it for me. I replaced everything when I did my clutch.
The next question is whether you intend to, or already have, more then stock power. If so, I’d consider the polyurethane couplers from the driveshaft shop. You can get them from Tick Performance as a kit, as well as the bearings if that’s the route you go. If you intend to stay stock, I’d say upgrade to 12mm and get stock rubber couplers. But in the grand scheme of things, if you’re staying stock, the 10mm setup is more then adequate too.
a few hundred bucks and some added labor was worth it for me. I replaced everything when I did my clutch.The next question is whether you intend to, or already have, more then stock power. If so, I’d consider the polyurethane couplers from the driveshaft shop. You can get them from Tick Performance as a kit, as well as the bearings if that’s the route you go. If you intend to stay stock, I’d say upgrade to 12mm and get stock rubber couplers. But in the grand scheme of things, if you’re staying stock, the 10mm setup is more then adequate too.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 788
Likes: 105
From: Olathe Kansas
That's what I was getting at... Is the 12mm really better than the 10 mm.. It will only be a head/cam car with
a mild torque converter upgrade..
I found a lower mileage used 12 mm TT and EITHER way I'd replace at least the couplers for sure..
Or just rebuild my Original 10 mm TT....
I just don;t know what the real difference between the 2 would be..
BTW, I'd definitely just use OEM type couplers as I don't want any extra harshness/vibrations at all
a mild torque converter upgrade..
I found a lower mileage used 12 mm TT and EITHER way I'd replace at least the couplers for sure..
Or just rebuild my Original 10 mm TT....
I just don;t know what the real difference between the 2 would be..
BTW, I'd definitely just use OEM type couplers as I don't want any extra harshness/vibrations at all
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 755
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If you’ve got your hands on a 12mm torque tube, I’d go for it. Definitely can’t hurt! In my opinion, if you’re planning to drive mainly on the street and won’t be doing hard launches at the drag strip with slicks, save a few bucks and stick with the 10mm torque tube. Just do the rebuild that you’re planning and move on with life 
The only difference between the two is that the 12mm will take a bit more abuse. With under 500rwhp N/A, the 10mm will be fine
The only difference between the two is that the 12mm will take a bit more abuse. With under 500rwhp N/A, the 10mm will be fine
Last edited by wscott62893; Dec 15, 2018 at 04:41 PM.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
FYI the rear of the 12mm TT requires a Large snap ring pliers to remove the biggest snap ring you’ll ever see.
Sucks, both taking off and putting on. It will fight. I’ve rebuilt maybe close to 10 torque tubes (all 12mm manual cars) and the snap ring has always been a bastard.
The 10mm uses bolts.
Whatever TT you use definitely change the bearings.id recommend GM couplers but know you will spend $300 on them.
Sucks, both taking off and putting on. It will fight. I’ve rebuilt maybe close to 10 torque tubes (all 12mm manual cars) and the snap ring has always been a bastard.
The 10mm uses bolts.
Whatever TT you use definitely change the bearings.id recommend GM couplers but know you will spend $300 on them.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Also the torx bit you use for the coupler bolts better be Snap-on quality or it will just twist like butter and not even budge the 1st one. Your vice (with soft jaws or use a leather belt to not mar the aluminum) better be solidly bolted down. A woman won’t have a chance breaking it loose. I say that to give you an idea what you’re up against before you do it. Use blue loc-tite when going back together.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Olathe Kansas
Awesome Info Guys!!! I think that I'll just keep the 10mm TT then.. I'm about 380 RWHP right now.. But I'm probably going to
do some 243 heads or better and a little bumpstick (depends on if my "new" noise is a lifter ) So I'd think I'd probably be
about 425 ish rwhp in the future..
If the a totally rebuilt 10MM TT will hold up fine, then that's what I'll do.
BTW, Yes, I'll use the pricey GM Couplers.. Read too many horror stories of others and solids !!
do some 243 heads or better and a little bumpstick (depends on if my "new" noise is a lifter ) So I'd think I'd probably be
about 425 ish rwhp in the future..
If the a totally rebuilt 10MM TT will hold up fine, then that's what I'll do.
BTW, Yes, I'll use the pricey GM Couplers.. Read too many horror stories of others and solids !!
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Also the torx bit you use for the coupler bolts better be Snap-on quality or it will just twist like butter and not even budge the 1st one. Your vice (with soft jaws or use a leather belt to not mar the aluminum) better be solidly bolted down. A woman won’t have a chance breaking it loose. I say that to give you an idea what you’re up against before you do it. Use blue loc-tite when going back together.
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
PB or any solvent has zero effect.
GM uses what I’d surmise is blue loc-tite from the factory (thick blue powdery when you break it loose) and a lots of it on each of the 12 bolts that go into a set of TT couplers. The only thing that can break down loc-tite is heat, and you aren’t going to put a torque tube in the oven, nor are you going to put an acetylene torch to rubber (literally).
Thats why I say Snap-on quality. The first time I broke one loose I had a 2 foot cheater bar on a 1/2 inch breaker and spit almost drooling out the corner of my mouth pushing so hard.
Good luck.
GM uses what I’d surmise is blue loc-tite from the factory (thick blue powdery when you break it loose) and a lots of it on each of the 12 bolts that go into a set of TT couplers. The only thing that can break down loc-tite is heat, and you aren’t going to put a torque tube in the oven, nor are you going to put an acetylene torch to rubber (literally).
Thats why I say Snap-on quality. The first time I broke one loose I had a 2 foot cheater bar on a 1/2 inch breaker and spit almost drooling out the corner of my mouth pushing so hard.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
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If you aren’t going to reuse the couplers, propane or acetylene torch is a good option. That’s what I did, worked like a charm. I was able to get the bolts to break loose with a cheap Harbor Frieght torx bit.
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Racer
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I just did an extensive search on this topic and it appears that the stock 12mm couplers stay intact much better than the 10mm. If I were you, I would stay with the 10mm and upgrade them to the polyurethane bushings made by The Driveshaft Shop. Stay away from the "six shooters." I have seen the The Driveshaft Shop brand go for $189.00 each on another site. I would replace the bearings and you are good to go.
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Spaggs
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From: West of the Sabine, Texas
Just heat it with a propane torch (or other) and they'll back right out. Just keep the torch off the coupler, or if you are replacing them anyway.....be sure to use the GM couplers.