Code C1243, I've tried almost everything.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
Code C1243, I've tried almost everything.
Hi everyone! My car has had the code C1243 for probably 8 months and I've ignored it, now that I've set my mind to fixing it I am having all sorts of trouble trying to fix this. I bought a tech 2 to run the TCS automated test, that blew the fuse under the hood causing code C1217. I have tried smashing the brakes to exercise the pump. The only problem is the code comes on as soon as I start the car. The only time I can get the code to not come up is if I start the car with my foot on the brake pedal and don't release the brake, as soon as I release the brake the code comes right back. Right now any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks everyone.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 22
From: Amarillo Texas
I fixed my 2000 Coupe by using a method I read on here. Jack the rear of the car off the ground. Put jack stands under the rear control arms so the axle shafts are not handing. Start the car and put in gear and run it about 5 to 10 mph for 5 seconds. Do this a couple or three times letting the pump selinoid cool in between running times. This activated the pump as the front wheel aren’t moving. Stop the engine then turn the switch to on and clear the code.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
I fixed my 2000 Coupe by using a method I read on here. Jack the rear of the car off the ground. Put jack stands under the rear control arms so the axle shafts are not handing. Start the car and put in gear and run it about 5 to 10 mph for 5 seconds. Do this a couple or three times letting the pump selinoid cool in between running times. This activated the pump as the front wheel aren’t moving. Stop the engine then turn the switch to on and clear the code.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
I fixed my 2000 Coupe by using a method I read on herve. Jack the rear of the car off the ground. Put jack stands under the rear control arms so the axle shafts are not handing. Start the car and put in gear and run it about 5 to 10 mph for 5 seconds. Do this a couple or three times letting the pump selinoid cool in between running times. This activated the pump as the front wheel aren’t moving. Stop the engine then turn the switch to on and clear the code.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
hope this works for you. I blew a fuse when I did it but replaced it and all was good. Sometimes the pump is truck and it will blow the fuse.
Good luck. Let us know.
Last edited by skittlenips; Dec 19, 2018 at 07:53 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,290
Likes: 477
From: Brea CA
With what you describe the BPMV is most likely bad. The ABS pump is part of the BPMV.
What year is your car, it is not in the original post. 2001 or newer is one style of BPMV and 1997 to 2000 is a different style. Both will require a full bleed of the brake system to replace.
Gary
What year is your car, it is not in the original post. 2001 or newer is one style of BPMV and 1997 to 2000 is a different style. Both will require a full bleed of the brake system to replace.
Gary
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
With what you describe the BPMV is most likely bad. The ABS pump is part of the BPMV.
What year is your car, it is not in the original post. 2001 or newer is one style of BPMV and 1997 to 2000 is a different style. Both will require a full bleed of the brake system to replace.
Gary
What year is your car, it is not in the original post. 2001 or newer is one style of BPMV and 1997 to 2000 is a different style. Both will require a full bleed of the brake system to replace.
Gary
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The motor is not running OR not running at the proper speed for that DTC to pop. That means one or two things:
The motor is gummed up and not able to break free OR there isn't enough power (VOLTAGE / CURRENT) to properly spin the motor. You should FIRST make sure that you have proper power and ground.
GROUND: There is a ground lug on the motor. The ground wire on the back of the motor can be LOOSE or corroded. You MUST check the motor ground lug connection and the chassis ground at G-101.
BEFORE you mess with it, put one OHM METER lead on the motor ground lug and the other lead on the NEG battery terminal. See what the resistance reading is. Should be near ZERO OHMS. Before you mess with that motor lug, CALL ME!!
POWER.. There are THREE power fuses for the EBTCM. Use a VOLT METER and read the fuses. There are two test slots on TOP each fuse. Measure each test slot to chassis ground and make sure that you see FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE on each test slot. Pull the fuses and make sure that fuse lugs are clean and they fit TIGHT in the fuse holder. Some fuses require KEY ON for power!!!
Measuring VOLTAGE at the fuse test slots with a meter is not enough. You also should put a LOAD on each fuse TEST SLOT to make sure that that circuit is supplying the proper current to the module/motor. Use a 12 VDC lamp and make sure it lights BRIGHT when tested to chassis ground. You can also remove the FUSE and put an AMP meter in the fuse slot to see what current its drawing on that fuse circuit. NOTE! The motor fuse is 40 AMPS. SO, make sure that you don't over load the amp meter.
Do all of that and see where you are. Report results.
Bill
The motor is gummed up and not able to break free OR there isn't enough power (VOLTAGE / CURRENT) to properly spin the motor. You should FIRST make sure that you have proper power and ground.
GROUND: There is a ground lug on the motor. The ground wire on the back of the motor can be LOOSE or corroded. You MUST check the motor ground lug connection and the chassis ground at G-101.
BEFORE you mess with it, put one OHM METER lead on the motor ground lug and the other lead on the NEG battery terminal. See what the resistance reading is. Should be near ZERO OHMS. Before you mess with that motor lug, CALL ME!!
POWER.. There are THREE power fuses for the EBTCM. Use a VOLT METER and read the fuses. There are two test slots on TOP each fuse. Measure each test slot to chassis ground and make sure that you see FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE on each test slot. Pull the fuses and make sure that fuse lugs are clean and they fit TIGHT in the fuse holder. Some fuses require KEY ON for power!!!
Measuring VOLTAGE at the fuse test slots with a meter is not enough. You also should put a LOAD on each fuse TEST SLOT to make sure that that circuit is supplying the proper current to the module/motor. Use a 12 VDC lamp and make sure it lights BRIGHT when tested to chassis ground. You can also remove the FUSE and put an AMP meter in the fuse slot to see what current its drawing on that fuse circuit. NOTE! The motor fuse is 40 AMPS. SO, make sure that you don't over load the amp meter.
Do all of that and see where you are. Report results.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 20, 2018 at 10:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
The motor is not running OR not running at the proper speed for that DTC to pop. That means one or two things:
The motor is gummed up and not able to break free OR there isn't enough power (VOLTAGE / CURRENT) to properly spin the motor. You should FIRST make sure that you have proper power and ground.
GROUND: There is a ground lug on the motor. The ground wire on the back of the motor can be LOOSE or corroded. You MUST check the motor ground lug connection and the chassis ground at G-101.
BEFORE you mess with it, put one OHM METER lead on the motor ground lug and the other lead on the NEG battery terminal. See what the resistance reading is. Should be near ZERO OHMS. Before you mess with that motor lug, CALL ME!!
POWER.. There are THREE power fuses for the EBTCM. Use a VOLT METER and read the fuses. There are two test slots on TOP each fuse. Measure each test slot to chassis ground and make sure that you see FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE on each test slot. Pull the fuses and make sure that fuse lugs are clean and they fit TIGHT in the fuse holder. Some fuses require KEY ON for power!!!
Measuring VOLTAGE at the fuse test slots with a meter is not enough. You also should put a LOAD on each fuse TEST SLOT to make sure that that circuit is supplying the proper current to the module/motor. Use a 12 VDC lamp and make sure it lights BRIGHT when tested to chassis ground. You can also remove the FUSE and put an AMP meter in the fuse slot to see what current its drawing on that fuse circuit. NOTE! The motor fuse is 40 AMPS. SO, make sure that you don't over load the amp meter.
Do all of that and see where you are. Report results.
Bill
The motor is gummed up and not able to break free OR there isn't enough power (VOLTAGE / CURRENT) to properly spin the motor. You should FIRST make sure that you have proper power and ground.
GROUND: There is a ground lug on the motor. The ground wire on the back of the motor can be LOOSE or corroded. You MUST check the motor ground lug connection and the chassis ground at G-101.
BEFORE you mess with it, put one OHM METER lead on the motor ground lug and the other lead on the NEG battery terminal. See what the resistance reading is. Should be near ZERO OHMS. Before you mess with that motor lug, CALL ME!!
POWER.. There are THREE power fuses for the EBTCM. Use a VOLT METER and read the fuses. There are two test slots on TOP each fuse. Measure each test slot to chassis ground and make sure that you see FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE on each test slot. Pull the fuses and make sure that fuse lugs are clean and they fit TIGHT in the fuse holder. Some fuses require KEY ON for power!!!
Measuring VOLTAGE at the fuse test slots with a meter is not enough. You also should put a LOAD on each fuse TEST SLOT to make sure that that circuit is supplying the proper current to the module/motor. Use a 12 VDC lamp and make sure it lights BRIGHT when tested to chassis ground. You can also remove the FUSE and put an AMP meter in the fuse slot to see what current its drawing on that fuse circuit. NOTE! The motor fuse is 40 AMPS. SO, make sure that you don't over load the amp meter.
Do all of that and see where you are. Report results.
Bill
Last edited by skittlenips; Dec 20, 2018 at 11:00 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks so much bill! I will do everything you described as soon as I get off work. Questions for ya though. In my tech 2 scanner I ran the TCS test that requires the rear wheels off the ground and it pops the 40 amp fuse under the hood. I can hear the motor running until the fuse pops. Is this normal for a stuck motor?
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
Fixed!! Switched out the 40 amp fuse for a 50 amp, and ran the TCS/Active handling test in my tech 2 around 9 times. Swapped the fuse back to a 40 amp and tested it once more, pump did not blow the fuse and no codes or lights. Thanks everyone, especially you Bill!!!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I was a little LEARY about recommending him use a larger fuse. If the 50 Amper would have blown, it would have required a new BPMV. His BPMV was just on the edge of working and just needed some time to spin and free up. . 10 more amps, should be fine. BUT!! Once its working fine... MAKE SURE that you get the OEM 40 amp back in there!!
REMEMBER.. If you don't use the anti lock, it will freeze up throw a DTC.
GLAD it worked out for you!! ENJOY! It was a pleasure talking to you on the phone.
Bill
REMEMBER.. If you don't use the anti lock, it will freeze up throw a DTC.
GLAD it worked out for you!! ENJOY! It was a pleasure talking to you on the phone.
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 493
Likes: 11
From: Gilbert, AZ
I was a little LEARY about recommending him use a larger fuse. If the 50 Amper would have blown, it would have required a new BPMV. His BPMV was just on the edge of working and just needed some time to spin and free up. . 10 more amps, should be fine. BUT!! Once its working fine... MAKE SURE that you get the OEM 40 amp back in there!!
REMEMBER.. If you don't use the anti lock, it will freeze up throw a DTC.
GLAD it worked out for you!! ENJOY! It was a pleasure talking to you on the phone.
Bill
REMEMBER.. If you don't use the anti lock, it will freeze up throw a DTC.
GLAD it worked out for you!! ENJOY! It was a pleasure talking to you on the phone.
Bill